Devo
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Posts posted by Devo
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Hi,
Just started to strip a JS1000w for a refinish today... but its not going well at all. I got some Nitromorse and followed the instructions but it did absolutely nothing to the paint. I figured this might have just been the lacquer or the top finish so I sanded through that and tried again. Still the finish didnt budge. I guess I used the wrong stripper. What will srtip the finish from a JS1000wh? or will I have to do it by hand with some wet and dry paper. The only other chemical option from my local shop is Strypit from ronseal, is that any better
any advice will be much appreciated
Thanks
Steve
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Hi,
I have a choice between some copper foil ~0.0007mm (same as aluminium foil but copper I guess) and some thicker sticky-back stuff to shield the the pickup cavities and control cavity area on two of my guitars.
Is the foil thick enough to do the job? or do I need something thicker like the sticky-back stuff? What is the physics behind it? Will a thicker copper sheet give me more shielding... my gut feeling tells me the thickness isnt important but I want to make sure.
Thanks
Steve
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Hi,
has anyone attempted to use their reflective undercoat under the metalcast coat?
Might have a nice anodized body effect? hmmm Im curious now...
Steve
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Hi
Ive been having this dilema myself.
I htink the best way is either the M-audio firewire thing
http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/FireWire410-main.html
or getting cubase system 4 and finally going legal with a legal copy of cubase and a half decent USB interface.
http://www.steinberg.net/ProductPage_sb.as...142&Langue_ID=2
they are both about the same price and will icrease the quality and ease of your recording. plus you get a full copy of cubase sx with the steinberg yoke.
If they are too expensive tascam, the us122 or somthing like that or any usb or firewire audio interface should do....
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Thanks man,
These are some really helpful ideas!!
cant wait to get stuck in!
Steve
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Thanks for your advice,
Im not sure what the final finish will be, but I know there will be no wood visable. I am bothered about repairing finish cracks dings and chips.
when you say a few rounds of priming and sanding... are you sanding the primer off altogether? or at least any primer that hasnt found its way into small pits and cracks? or just sanding smooth?
will the primer Im use depend on the finish paint? I.e. some primers wont work with some paints? or can I just use some standard light grey undercoat paint?
rebuilding areas where there are large chips is it ok to use polly filla? and sand it smooth?
Sorry for the ton of questions.
Steve
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Good idea!
I dont want a wood finish so... as you suggested I think I will just fill the dings sand it down and prime it.. go through a few rounds of priming and sanding.
Going to go have a look around this website for a good primer... any suggestions?
Thanks for your help
Steve
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second thoughts im going to pull the whole wiring out... and start from scratch... going to try come up with some plans with two push pulls and a three way.... hmmmm ...
I notice stews do some really expensive shielded circuit wire and some 'retro' wire now too. I just want some good quality stuff... And I think that they look a bit over kill. Any opinions? If thats whats best then I dont mind paying for it.
seems like its been a while sicen i wired a guitar from scratch
been a year or more since i was last on this forum anyway ... im really ssupprised and delighted by how much it has grown!!
Steve
ps if anyone can point me to novel or interesting wiring options for a two humbucker id be very grateful
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Hi,
About to strip a js1000wh adn was wondering if I should go sanding route or chemical route. Im tempted to chemical as I dont have access to a power/palm sander.
Cheers for any advice
Steve
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Hi Folks,
I need to replace some worn out push pulls on a JS series, and Im thinking of redoing some of the wiring and maybe getting a new switch.
I havent been looking at parts and guitar making stuff for quite a while so I was wondering if people could reccomend their favourite pots and switches.
Think Ill go have a look in stewmac.. now that I think of it
Thanks for any advice!
Steve
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Hey,
sorry about getting back I didnt have email notification enabled my bad
Ok Im feeling a bit better about it now, I just paniced a bit when faced with somthing new
Yeah I have a work bench that will hold it easily (I cant believe I didnt think of that) Thanks for the tip.
But i really dont want to route by sight so im going to have to make up a new set of templates... I dont have 7 string floyd templates anyway... This is turning out to be more trouble than I thought.
At least the neck was straight forward
Thanks for your help everyone!!
This site rox!
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dont have a dremel at the mo.... just a huge ass router .... am so annoyed
any tips for stabilising .. i think clamps are going to get in the way
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Hi folks,
This is my first time posting here, but used to post on the old universal jems site, and I have a bit of a problem
Ive cut out a universe body out of the block of wood before routing cavities... ordinarily i would just dicsard it and do it again having routed first... but this is several layers thick ebony, mahogany, maple etc
anyone any experience routing on precut preshaped body?
Cheers
Steve
Stripping Trouble
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
heres a link to the rustins site, can find one to the Nitromors site
http://www.rustins.co.uk/Strypit.html