redwhiteandthemaple

Looking great.

Especially so for a 1st guitar

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g79/de-t...%20Growler%204/

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g79/de-t...20Fretless%204/

Definitely not his first guitar.. one of them (above) is!

Anywho, I'm not really a tele guy (maybe the ThinLines) but I like the one you are building, knowing that it won't really sound like a Tele. Perhaps lot warmer. Mmmmhmmmm warmmm..

So I posted on the Here but no luck..

nobody ever goes there.. so better luck here, hopefully

I know 5way 4pole switch they drew on that topic and the schematic works for 4-conductor wires

I'm not a complete noob. but I can't understand anything, basically, other than the standard wirings. (So I am still a noobie)

So please be patient

So I want the positions to be...

Bridge humbucker

Inner coils in parallel

Outer coils in series

Outer coils in parallel

Neck humbucker

And I have 4-Pole Double Wafer 5-Way SuperSwitch Switch from UniversalJems (scroll down, the last one of the toggle switchs list)

My pickups have 5 wires each. They're Bill Lawrence 500s pickups

It says...

white = postivie (hot) lead

black = negative lead to ground

blue = [it says to solder it to ground]

red & green -> it says for standard wiring solder together and insulate

for split coil wiring, solder the combined red & green wires to one of the treminals of an on-off switch & connect the other terminal to ground

where would I solder these to the 5 way 4 pole lever switch?

I was asking Robert_the_damned about his Diagram..

I waswondering for that schematic, did he draw it like that because drawing it all on one switch would be too hectic?

Or does one of them refer to the "top" side of the switch and the other, "bottom" side?

Also, where are the pots and capacitor(s)?

I checked these out from SeymourDuncan: PRS mod1, PRS mod2

But I think they're all refering to the Rotary switch.. which isn't what I'm talking about now?

I need this So please help!

Q.Q

Pssst, he can't hear you..!!

Yes you should move this to the solid body section.

For future reference post anything on the solid body section cuz that's where a good 90% of the questions are answered.

For your question. Don't Be Afraid! There's help!!

click there. Type in your fret #s and scale.

It'll show you the measurements of EVERYTHING and for EVERY BRIDGE you can imagine.. (actually don't imagine any bridges..)

But all the popular bridges are there, Fender vintage strats, TOM, teles, FloydRose types, etc.

So you can get all the measurements about setting up your bridge. For the intonation after that, that's your guitar setup ability. The bridge will be in the correct position. If you go to projectguitar.com and look under tutorials there's a good 6 steps to setting up your guitar. It's kinda long and hassle, and our manual-free generation don't really like it, but it works. And you Want it to work.

First i would like to thank everyone for their input. Is the knife edge the part of the bridge which rubs against the posts? What should I look for or be careful of when purchasing a used tremolo?

Yes the knife edges are the ones that rub on the 2 posts. As you bang around with tremolos alot and not give a maintanence on your guitar.. It'll wear out meaning it won't be as sharp any more, and dull edges, if you can imagine, will have more surface area touching to post, meaning more friction and more energy to move them around. So you won't get as smooth bends and so on.

I can't really imagine any other parts wearing out other than the chrome/gold coatings, but those really don't affect the interquality of the tremolos.

Also, make sure they're all original parts. Such as make sure the saddles look all the same, the screws.

What happens is, when people go, "Hey this saddle's chrome coating wore off, I'll just get a new one" They don't really know the radius of their own tremolo, so they might replace a 14"radius saddle of a OFR to a 12"radius saddle of a Schaller. So you want all originals parts intact, which most of them are. But some I've come across haven't been so.

I'm not sure.. but I was thinking...

The height of your fretboard matters

And of course the bridge heigh matters..(but I don't think this one's much of a problem)

The higher the fretboard is set, the lesser the angle.

This makes sense to me..

Not completely sure

Add a veneer and brown (flame or quilt) with black hardware and matching headstock

but you did say you wanted a solid job.. so might be a challenge.

For chrome hardware, I'd go solid dark navy-grayish type.. imo

My idea of finishing/choosing color for guitars is to accentuate the feel/shape of the guitar..

In this case.. it's very modern, if it's chrome hardware, most standard colors will feel at *home.

Or maybe you want something outrageous.. then you want some graphics. or pink..

I say no binding on the neck.. No binding on the neck makes it look more vintage-style imo. And goes better with amber/brown sunburst as you're doing. I like the shape, people would be very fond of it, guitarists and non-guitarists alike. It reminds me of the PRSsinglecuts, probably because of the bottom shape and the top part, but the cutaway horn is definitely tele. Interesting.. you mixed a fender tele with gibson lespaul... like they say... "The Best of the Both Worlds" -PRS (refering to Fender and Gibson) Thought I'd point that out... since I thought it looked like a PRSsinglecut before I figured that out.

I'm interested in knowing what scale is it? How many frets?

Also, if I were in your shoes.. I'd make it a carve top, but not dramatic.. maybe about 1/4" difference from edge to center.

Just to help you, I'll raise a question.

Is there an active single coils suitable or perhaps considerable? for jazzy/bluesy tunes? If not, it'd be a real hassle to mix an active and passive systems. Or perhaps you found 1?

Cool project overall!

Ciao!

I would have to leave it natural.

Gazeth thou into yonder Flamey Avatar and reciteth from the Book of Precepts of Mikhail the Mapler:

I. Thou shalt enhance thine Acer Macrophyllum with all manner of Dyes of Aniline, that thine figure might be beautified.

II. Shouldst thou be tempted to enhanceth not thine Acer Macrophyllum, referest thou to Precept I.

III. Thou shalt finish thine Acer Macrophyllum with Lacquers of Nitrocellulose, that thine instrument might shine forth.

IV. Shouldst thou be tempted to finish thine instrument with the Oils of Tru, referest thou to Precept III.

Yikes, I'm starting to sound like a certain Castle dweller...

Can we have 1 of these as like.. uhhhhh.... like a motto or something? for PG?

That'd be hilarious... and cool at the same time.

The nerdiest thing I've heard from here. (in a good way!)

and for that maple.. I REFUSE TO BELIEVE THAT A FIGURE AS SUCH COULD EXIST! YOU PHOTOSHOP-ED IT!!!

(keep telling myself this.. and eventually, it'll become true.. )

Look around eBay for a good condition Original Floyd Roses, you would have to spend about $100. It's used, but it's functionality should be perfectly fine. But you do need to look at the knife edges.

If you want to bang around and divebomb like Dime/Satch/Mr.Vai

I'd actually recommend Ibanez Edges

These are rather hard to get direct, but you can from... i think it was ibanezrules.com

But you would most likely go on for eBay. Most of the edges I've seen are in great condition, and believe me, they're lot smoother then the Floyd Roses.

Some people like the Floyd Roses, because it can sound like a vintage trem, but with lot more dive and pulls.

But Edges have a lot more modern feel, smoother, and also with lot more dive and pulls.

For the FloydRoses, if it's not Gotoh or Schaller, other than the original, umm... don't.. buy.. it...

There is a chance you might not regret it.. but personally, I would never take that chance..

Check out this site for the Ibanez Trem systems: http://www.jemsite.com/jem/trems.htm

They don't actually have ALL the models.. I used to have a site for that.. but.. if I find it I'll post it up

There's a *new (or not THAT new) lineup to Ibanez Trems : Zero Resistence.. and also the upgrade of the cheap TRS systems.. forget what they're called now.. think it's like Edge III

Anywho, direct ibanez trems are EXPENSIVE.. so I definitely suggest eBay.

Ciao!

Ok, it never occured to me until I was planning for my next build..

I wanted to look up some wood stains. I did look around Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Ronas, etc.

But they don't find suitable colors for instruments. They're mostly all "natural" colors. Some MinWax will have bizarre colors, but nothing like the ones we see on normal guitars.

StewMac doesn't ship theirs outside US.

And eBay doesn't have any..

So..

Where do you (Canadians) get your stains from?

The closest I got was.. Lee Valley

I'm looking for something like that "Blue" you can see on Here

Yeellp...

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...&hl=wrap+around

So in this topic you guys talked about intonation and setup of the bridge.

I've never seen one in real life due to the lack of PRS guitars in my local Long&McQuade shops

Anywho, I need to know if the neck should be angled like a T.O.M.? I'm guessing not, because the bridge "seems" low in many pictures I've seen, but not sure.. So I need to see the green light. Anybody wanna confirm/"show" me?

Thhhaaankkk YOU in advance!

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPALTED-MAPLE-STRAT-BO...1QQcmdZViewItem

Another great eBay auction that can cheer/encourage some newbies like myself.

(use templates! templates! templates!!!! arrrgggg)

why am i NEVER here for the crazy colored skins or anyting, man i miss out

dang... same... *hugs? lol...

Is this a string thru? That'd be lovely.

That veneer looks really nice. If someone told me it's a mapletop, I would probably fall for it....

I like the word "newbie"

Get yourself a membership to a pic hosting sites.

e.g. Photobucket.com

and hyperlink it from here. You'll see this button on the posting a reply section. Where I'm at NOW.

Go nuts!

I built one few months ago. Sry I don't have any pictures, I'm too lazy and selfish.

First of all.. You really don't want a natural look on these Saga guitars... especially the T-(eletcaster) and S-(elecaster) series.

The body I got was 3 piece basswood. The quality's ok, but I don't think showing 2 gluelines is really a thing of beauty, and they aren't even bookmatched... (well.. it's a basswood)

Second, that sealer is very useful for solid painting. I painted primer on mine, and I suggest you paint primer first too, if it's your first time. Color coat on the sealer works, too, if you want to save $.

The hardwares are real junk. From the bridge to tuners. You might want to order some cheap parts to go along with it. GuitarFetish at eBay and choppers music on ebay have some decent quality at good prices.

I plan to redo mine throughout this summer. Make it semi-hollow, 2 buckers, new neck, and adding a top.

Also, you don't necessarily have to go far as ordering online when you can simply go to your local hardware store (Ronas, HomeDepot, CanadianTire --> is my fav.) I sprayed mine with automotive spray. I also added some graphics on mine using.. the word slipped outta my mind.. the thing where you cut the shape on certain paper and then just spray on it.

Personally I hate the neck. Everything about it. The contour, the fingerboard, the frets, etc.

I have yet to decide if it was worth it. After all, you don't really learn much except on finishing part of the guitar. Which is just for looks. The quality of the guitar is fixed, not much to improve on it, unless you invest some $$ and upgrade hardwares and some further woodworking.

Good luck,

Ciao

Kinko's sounds like a good idea. I'll check with them. Thx!

I'll try with my photocopier in the future, but I want it to be as perfect as possible.

Thx for the suggestions.

I have a regular home/business printer (Samsung SCX4100 if interested) that has print/copy/scan, but I need to know how to print a large picture as a guitar plan/blueprints.

Is there no other way than breaking the picture into little bits in say... Photoshop and printing each individual then gluing in up?

I thought about buying the guitar templates from guitarbuildingtemplates.com but their shipping to foreign countries is ridiculous...

I have all the files I want to print (PRS24 and JEM) in dwg and something else, which I can open with AutoCAD.

How do you guys do it?

Thx in advance.

does the topic starter wants to know "why" we like the shapes we like? cus it's too subjective... some find angelina jolie hot.. some.. too scary... some... not too much.. some... are just gay..

XD

I also forgot to say.. LP doublecuts too.. and red on any quality guitar just takes my breath away.

replies to what..? your topic or pm's?

DAng... Is that the guitar you were talking about??? The one devil's holding??

That's the first -evil looking- guitar that I actually thought looked okay.. That's a huge step forward for me..

Anywho, wanted to say thx for that link, I thought it was hilarious.. Soooo Jack Black.

You made my exam day.. no .. week!

Aha. That clears it up.

My bad. By the way, I think "Richie" sounds nice. Personally, I give all my guitars an actual name.

1 more question, did you buy the fretboard from those Taiwan guys? If so, how does the inlays hold up?

Again, great lookin guitars! I dig that royal red on RG!

If you're just talking about the shape, I've got several in mind. Ibanez Satriani model (especially Candy Red finish but again.. *ahem the shape's what we're talking about) I love the aerofoil design and the smoothness.

Also a huge fan of Kelly shapes, but overall, it's not just the shape, but also its features that really look nice too such as.. a round beveled strat for me beats a flying V for me, while a flying V beats a binded strat.

So it largely depends on the features too.. arm rest, bevels, controus, bindings, cutaways, etc.

I think you misunderstood why I did. The original guitar had a neck with a 24.75" scale length. When I replaced the neck & fretboard, the new one had a 25.5" fretboard. In other words the frets (and fret spacing) are for 25.5". What I endded up with was a guiar that had a fretboard with 25.5" spacing (it measured 12.75" from the nut to the center of the 12th fret), but from the 12th fret to the center of the bridge I had on 12" (total length was 24.75"). So I had to move the bridge back .75" to restore the 25.5" scale length.

Intonation is quite good, except for the low E (6th string), which is sharp and I can't get it any closer than about 10 cents and the G (within 5-6 cents). I guess I could have moved the bridge back at least another .125" to allow for more adjustment, but that's still pretty good. I've had brand new guitars that were virtually un-intonable no matter what I did.

Mmm... and I think you misunderstood me..

The placements of the frets on a 24.74" and 25.5" are different and are not changed by the fact that the centre of the scale and the 12th fret are exactly aligned.

This will make it alot clear..

Here

Type in 24 frets, 25" scale. Look at the fret distance values.

Then, type in 24 frets, 24.75" scale. Use 2 browsers so you can compare them side by side.

You'll see that despite moving up the entire fingerboard/cutting the heel/whatever you do... you can't change the distances from each from to the next..

Hope that clarifies a bit.. Sorry I hate to be an a$$, but the values for each fret differ, meaning incorrect intonation.