suicidecustom

sounds like a normal 4 conductor passive to me. all active pups ive dealt with have 3 wires-grnd, hot and signal

the reason you are not supposed to ground your bridge is because of the 9 volt. if your playing and touch a mic while singing you could get a nasty shock. and its not needed with active pups

from what im told, it is compatable with any 2 part automotive clear coat. HOK, PPG, SIKKENS, etc. should work. make sure you get it from an autobody supply store, not and automotive store.

sand

lmi wont radius probably because they sand the radius by machine and bloodwood burns very easily

my next is a replica of David Gilmour's candy red strat with the emg set (he has 4-5 identical candy red strats but only one has the emg's)

from my understanding the bass side is supposed to be staggered roughly 1/8" further than the treble side. that looks like at least 3/8". but who cares, as long as it sounds good.

iv sanded the entire front and back and it cost me over £10 in sandpaper just to get down to the basecoat.

one tip. dont buy cheap sandpaper. go to an autobody supply shop. not an automotive store, go to the same place that all the bodyshops go to get their supplies and buy the expensive paper. you will spend about as much as you have on the cheap paper, get less, and accomplish alot more in less time.

im no expert but, from what ive been tought there is no need to wet sand your colour coat that fine if your gonna clear it. 400 - 600 grit wet/dry should be fine, when you clear it the clear will fill in the fine scratches. remeber you want the clear to create a mechanical bond as well as a chemical bond. if you polish your colour coat the clear will peel

what about an Epiphone Les Paul style? I know they have a lot of extra beef on there. Wouldn't that make it a little safer than other guitars? I'm not talking about taking off a huge portion of the back or reshaping the profile. Would just a little bit off the back be ok? I'm not an expert here.

you have to remember that gibson and epi. use a curved truss rod, so you have a fair bit less wood to work with in the middle than at each end of the neck

read this. thread. there is a reason the other sites only carry logarithmic (audiotaper) pots. the linear pots you have on order will have barely any change from say 10 - 6 (10 being wide open) and all of a sudden change the tone quite rapidly after that. the log (audio taper) pots will have a smoother mor gradual change

i was just going to say that. linear taper pots will have the majority of the change in tone at one end of the pots travel. electrically they are 100%linear but we dont perceive so. log (audio taper) pots will be even and smooth

I'm not sure what you mean, suicide...

You don't have to go to your vol knob directly from your pickups.

true, but the output from the pickups does hit the volume put first, either from the pickup itself or from a switch etc..... at least from what ive seen. i should have worded my reply differently

which ever pot your pickup wire goes to is your volume, then there will be a cap joining the second pot to the first. just curious, emg?

doesnt matter how many turns or the dc resistance(which doesnt determine how hot the pup is anyway) most will be a very weak pup that is boosted and eq'd by an internal preamp, hence the need for a battery on board

oh is this another boutique 'oh look what i've got' amp ?

if i had the spare cash, perry would have another $500 deposit in his paypal account imediately. id much rather have a hand made amp then some made in china by a 12 year old pile of junk.

its wwwwaaaaaayyyyyy too much imho. K.I.S.S. ( Keep It Simple Stupid )

candies are not opaque, they are quite transparent........just nit pickin

4 pushpull pots, 2 mini switches and a 3 way toggle. 2 volume pots (one for each pup) when pulled activate a coil tap. 2 tone pots when pulled activate reverse phase and 2 mini switches (dpdt ????) for series/parallel and a 3way toggle to switch pickups should do it

my first build is screwed to the wall of my shop to remind me to plan, plan, and plan again. my second build went better and yeilded a playable guitar (plays better than the squire strat i took the neck from) and my brother loves it. im on my third build now, making everything myself. if i didnt spend the 2.5 weeks planing, researching and making a full scale drawing, it wouldnt be going as smooth as it is now.

on a side note, after carving a small part of the neck (took about 20 min taking my time) i realized i better run out this weekend and buy a lot more wood. it actually is fun carving a neck, im definately 100% addicted.

top notch as always. now lets see the other guitars now

he original EVH pickup was just a PAF, no? Not even a "metal"/"rock" pickup! It's all about the fingers and the amp.

the pickup in the frankenstien guitar was just a gibson paf. funny enough, when charvels pickup guru and seymour duncan looked over the pickup for the new evh replicas coming out they found out that the pickup should be dead. they couldn't get any readings from it with a meter.

thats the usa made version. there may be an import. if there is and its made at the china factory it will be a quality instrument and probably run in the 800 - 1000 dollar range

think thats bad: Schenker Brothers V Only 200 Produced Worldwide Sug. Retail $7,999.00

edit. now i am a dean owner, and although i beleive they make well built instruments and are the only mass produced guitar i will buy these days. theres no way in H#$L i will shell out $4300.00 on a guitar let alone $8000.00

it's in full production splittail. cant be bought off the shelf with that paint job though, but as far as customshops go they are fairly reasonable. check bluerockguitars.com, or funkymonkeymusic.com. they are both reputable dealers that are also verry active on the dean forum

edit> SplitTail Sug. Retail $4,273.00 (from their retail guide) price it from a dealer, would prolly be a bit cheaper

looks nice cant wait to see it finished