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Lex Luthier

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Posts posted by Lex Luthier

  1. Snork, the guy who learnt me how to build guitars is a master luthier. It is so great to have someone like him around to give me advice. It's a good thing you found someone who can help you and from who you can learn. Please keep him as a friend and take his advise seriously  B)

    Yeah, I gotta "mentor" too. I found him a few years after I started building, but I've learned ALOT from him - I even WORKED for him for five months right out of highschool! :D

  2. anyone got any oppionon on those concave fret dressing files? the purpose made ones...

    They're expensive - that's my opinion.

    You can do tha same thing with a file that has teeth on the face of the file only, like I do and learned to do from a luthier. Take any small file and grind the teeth on the edges away. You just shape the fret while you are dressing it, leaving a small amount of unfiled fret in the middle.

  3. i thought that you didnt need to use a glue. what if you need to take the frets out?

    You don't need to use glue, you usually don't, unless the slot has widened. If you need to remove the frets, you use a soldering or clothes iron anyway, to heat up the oils in the board so there is less chip out, plus the heat will terminate any glue bond.

  4. For fretting, I think:

    Fret pullers, which can also be your fret end nippers

    Fretting hammer, 8oz with plastic or nylon head is best

    Long flat "bastard" file I thinks it's called, for leveling

    Small file with edges ground smooth for taking the corners off the fret ends

    Masking tape

    Long level or staing egde

    For dressing frets, I like to mask off the entire board, except for the frets, use a file with teeth on the faces only and re-shape the frets, then use 320grit sandpaper to remove the file marks, then 600grit to remove the 320grit marks, then 0000 steel whool the polish the frets, so I'd say get some 320 and 600grit sandpaper, but that's just my method. I use the same file for filing the fret ends as dressing.

  5. Here it is! :D

    sander3.jpg

    sander1.jpg

    sander2.jpg

    It's a 6" X 99" Horizontal/Vertical Edge Belt Sander by Strike. The whole belt sander portion actually flips on it's side, instead of the table tilting, and the belt actually ostilates(sp?) too. I've been playing aroung with it a little. I took the back cover off, so I don't have to always remove it to change belts, and the dust chute cover is off, for now. I also made some adjusments to the table, to make it raise and lower easier.

  6. Both. I have a large plunge router that I use freehand and in a table I made. I find most commercial avaliable router tables are REALLY small, so I made my own. I used an old desk, so my table surface is almost 2' X 4'.

    I use my router freehand for routing cavities in bodies, and I use it mounted in the table for profiling necks and bodies.

  7. It's really the only choice I think for hollow bodies/acoustics. 

    Never used it at Northwood Guitars. Northwood uses the two glues I mentioned in an earlier post on this thread, Titebond I and Cabinet makers glue. Titebond is used for pretty much everything, except the cabinet makers glue is used on bridges and necks because it is less elasticy than Titebond.

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