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Posts posted by Lex Luthier
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Ok is there any other type of mill that works with a computer that can cut a body from a CAD fill thats 3000 or less. It doesnt have to be cnc. I realized i just needed a computer operated mill. Or is that what CNC means.
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Also, what kind of wood is good and not expensive. I dont want to spend tons of money.
Then do two piece, and Les Pauls are Mahogany, but Alder is a nice, less costly wood.
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Just register here:
http://fullservesite.com/cgi-bin/easyhost.cgi
Be aware that when you post the address of the picture you will need to remove the /members from the address to view the picture. I use it all the time, and host websites with it.
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Does anyone know any benefits to angling the neck?
With Tune-O-Matics, or TOM's, playability is a benefit. You need to angle the neck back slightly to get the right action. With Strat type bridges you don't need an angle. If you do not want to deal with an angled neck then go with a Strat style bridge - trem or hardtail.
I have, however, used one of these without a neck angle.
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I would prefer NO guitar on the shirts, just the PG logo and web address, because that's what we're advertising with the shirts.
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Like stated above I would advise againts using it as a top would, but by all mean use it for the back and side if you want a looker for a guitar. Quilted maple is flatsawn, but the look is worth it.
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Monkey, have you even built a guitar? I suggest you get REAL good at building them by hand first. Yeah, a CNC would cut out bodies and neck real quick, but it won't do the other important steps that go into building a guitar, such as:
Designing, wood selection, joining/gluing up, finishing, fretting, nut work, hardware installation, wiring, intonation/action setup, and of course SELLING them.
I suggest you get REAL good at what's listed above before you even THINK about a CNC machine, or you'll just have dozens of necks and bodies lying around your workshop.
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Lex , you said here is the site, but where is it
I never relized I didn't add the link.
HERE is the link, the prices are on the far right. Again, the closet to 4' x 4' is the FlexiCAM LX at $14,430.
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Monkey, here is a website that compares a number of CNC machines. The prices are listed on the far right, the first two colums list the X & Y axis travel. The closest one to 4' x 4' is the FlexiCAM LX priced at $14,430...
Larrivee Guitars uses Fadal CNC's, they are large enclosed machines with an area of maybe 5' x 7' inside. They are around $100,000 each...
I really don't think you need a CNC machine, at the most a dupli-carver, and I really don't think you'll have the demand for even a dupli-carver to help with building guitars, at least not for a while.
Do you even have the room for anything like this?
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Could get a contest on the third batch as the first one is done and gone and the second one is in the works.
Good idea, do it like GOTM, start a thread and where we submit our designs, and then start a poll.
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and the words SEARCH FIRST, done up in the Project Guitar logo font on the back in REALLY big lettering.
Are you serious?
I would be perfectly happy with this:
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Having the grain bust out with the router has happened to me evertime I do it that way. That's why I bought an oscilating spindle sander, and will now just sand to the final profile.
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The problem is that its just heat, not steam + heat.
The heat creates steam out of the wet wood.
I'm also not sure about a heat gun, a pipe is just more focused, I guess would be the term, and you can bend the sides over the pipe.
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There's one HERE too, started by Brian. I wonder what happened, it sounded like he was about to order some.
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My problem with most band saws blades is that they don't make turns as sharp as some of the heavy jig saw blades....
You can just make relief cuts in the cutaways, waist, and horns.
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Interesting, but i do wonder about burning wood.
Take light passes, and don't go too slow, like PerryL suggests.
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I was looking at a 14" Ridgid for about $380. I will be mostly cutting ash and maple and some mohogany.
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They work like this:
Turn the adjusting nut clockwise, it will bend the rod back, like you are decreasing relief, turn it counter clockwise, and it adds relief. I've used one on the StewMac hotrods and was kind of amazed by the design, it's kind of funky. The idle rod, or rod that doesn't move, on the StewMac rods is threaded as well, but that's only for the perpose of assembly.
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Yes you do, and you should be right proud of it, granted.
I just get tired of the I Me Mine syndrome you seem to be stuck in, but I step back, remember your age, and I check myself. This is not a perfect world.
Probably normal for a 20 year old, you go right ahead.
Try to include -other people- in your posts occasionally tho, OK?
no
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My dad and I share a shop, so whenever we need a new tool we each pay half. Pritty nice system I think.
That's a great system, you can get tools/machinery twice as fast.
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Even though you edited your post Drak...
I'm proud of my 'stuff'. I earned it with a well paying job I had back in the winter/fall. I like tools/machinery, and I like to show mine off. I think I've got a pretty good shop for a 20yo(and it's all mine, none of it is my father's).
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Since we're all showing off...
6"x99" edgesander
14" bandsaw
Dust collector
13" floor drillpress
6" jointer
LARGE router table with 3 1/2HP router
2 1/4HP combo base router
Oscilating spindle sander
4"x36"belt/disc sander
Two shop-vacs
Air filter/cleaner
Two cordless drills
Electric drill
Two spray guns
Compressor
8 F-clamps
18 C-clamps
LOADS of jigs
LOADS of templates
LOADS of handtools
Lots of forstner, twist, bradpoint, spade bits
LOOOOOAAAAAADS of scrap wood
The only thing I'm missing is a THICKNESS SANDER!
Why the angled neck?
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
I don't know, I'd have to see it. I also don't really think aluminum would be the best bridge material, not very dense.