Lex Luthier

Titebond is a wood glue...guitars are made of wood...probably a pretty bad answer.

I have had nothing but great experiences with Titebond I. If you have good, clean fitting joints, and a good amount of clamping pressure, you should be absolutely fine with Titebond.

I actually wouldn't mind trying hot hide glue though, but where do you get it?

I just bent these, I'd say that's pretty good for a piece of wood with a hole and saw cut in it!

Bent Fret Wire

That's a good tutorial, but if your gonna be doing much fret tang removal, wouldn't it be better to have the fret tang nipper like Stew Mac sells?

If you wanna spend $40.00, sure...plus you need two separate nippers for large and small wire. My thing works GREAT for holding the fret to file the tang, though I did say it takes practice to use a fret bender.

Yes weller are nice!

this is the one I had in my shop, now I have a portable kit that I got in my guard unit that was thrown away when the transformer went bad, I replaced it and that was it. The only difference is that mine is not variable.

That's cool. My electronics teacher back in highschool had a 'soldering station' likethat. Maybe when my OKAY soldering iron breaks I'll get something like that.

Takes much less space than the big plywood fret benders from the main site 

That will work better though. My tool is basically for filing the tang, but I found I could use it as a bender also, does take practice though, to get a smooth curve and not a bunch of bends in the wire.

I just finished a tutorial for a very simple tool to aid in filing the tangs of frets for bound fingerboards, plus you can use it to bend fret wire.

Fret Tool Tutorial

That thing is PHAT!

You did an awesome job on it, and this is from someone who attemped to make a relic and now think they're kinda dumb, but that thing looks COOL.

It says 'Search Fuction"...

25Watt - 45Watt will work, but in order to properly wire an elctric guitar you need to be able to ground the pot casings, so the higher wattage iron will make that easier.

also is it simply glueing the top when you get it?

I'd use a caul to get even pressure, like a 1" particleboard cutout of the guitar is perfect, with clamps along the edges, and a weight in the middle.

that is also part of the new pg

Seems these changes we have been discussing/whining about are beginning to take place...kind of exciting, and suprising!

I've managed ok with a 1/4" bit and then shim the two brass blocks firmly in on each end. Whats between the blocks doesn't really matter, the rods don't contact the sides anyway. Hell, I can remember the very first truss rod slot I routed was crooked as a dog's hind leg, . But it still worked out ok. Just make sure your anchor points ( the blocks) are set in firmly.

Just do that.

Looks like these changes are really pissing people off, and driving them away. I hope this doesn't continue, I really like PG. This forum is the one I've stayed with the longest, because it's right up my alley being mainly about electric guitars/basses. I used to post on the 13th Fret, but got board with that, the TGF, but got bored with that, the FDP, but got bored/annoyed with that, Harmony Central, but got really annoyed with that, Acoustic Guitar, but bored/annoyed with that in a week. This is the one forum I've stayed with, I just don't want to see it go to hell with these changes, that's all.

I remember reading something about how this happened on Harmony Central in the Electric Guitars section, when they changed the rules, a bunch of the 'oldtimers' left...I though it was refered to as the 'great movement' or something like that.

If you do buy a router, take note of the collet size. 1/2" collets can accept 1/4" addapters, but I'm not sure if 1/4" collets and go up to 1/2", so don't buy 1/2" shaft bits for a 1/4" collet router, but I may be wrong. It's just that my two routers have 1/2" and 1/4" collets, so I'm not sure.

What if I got a router bit and mounted it to an Electric drill, would that work? It doesn't need to be perfectly measured, just fairly clean. Would that work if I just held the drill steady?

I'm gonna say NO!

African Mahogany is not a true Mahogany. True Mahogany's fall under the Swietenia genus which come from the American continents, while African Mahogany falls under the khaya genus which comes from Africa.

Gibson probably uses an American Mahogany, but not necessarily Honduran.

thanks everybody. I've got a set up using a propane torch. I'm going to try a 200 watt lightbulb as soon as I get back from a business trip, and I will report if it gets hot enough.

I found this link on MIMF, and he seems to think it works:

Bill's Side Bender

Thanks again.

The cool little artical talks about it requiring more thermal mass, he said using steel whool, I think I've heard of sand being used, but I'm not sure.

The luthier I worked for had a metal pipe with a heating element running through it, with an adjustment knob.

How important is it to get the bridge exactly on the written dimension

Quite, what do you mean by written dimension? If you mean the scale lenght, lets say 25", extend the saddles as far as they will go, and make it 25" from the saddles.

how far can this vary

Not too much, because saddles don't have a whole lot of room for travel.

what would downsides be

Intonation will be off, will never properly play in tune.

Hi have you read the tutorial on the main site.

Tutorial

Quite a few people have suggested using steam when using an iron to remove the fingerboard, but what I learned when working for a luthier was to use just the heat of the iron, because heat will terminate any glue joint. I personally watched my boss remove the fingerboard with an older looking clothing iron, that I don't think you could even put water it. I've also removed 2 or 3 fingerboards myself with just the heat of a clothing iron, no steam, worked fine.

I was looking and thought you meant the "Book Matched My Arse Cheeks!, my arse cheeks dont match" thread. Yeah, that one by Camcool was rediculous.

The whole Top Wood thread is a shining exaple of what I am talking about.

Which thread?

I think the wood in those packages is all 3/4"-13/16", that's less then 1 inch thick. Too thin unless you're using it as a top, or putting a top on it.

ADMIN EDIT: LGM- this is your second warning about posting pics instead of links Let's get it cleaned up

Could somebody tell me what this is all about?

Just curious, it would seem there are more rules than I was aware of, so I'm asking to become more informed.

yeah, are we only allowed link to pics now?

B & D are both the same, used in furniture because it's more stable, I use A & C, which are both the same, because it just looks nicer.

Could somebody e-mail that to me at becalvert@hotmail.com for some reason I can only copy it as a bitmap for the moment 

Link & attachment sent.

Glue Chart

I thought this was neat.