albertop

Well, it's been a while since I posted here so I want to show you my little progress, I made the scratch plate and finish to fit the hardware (except for the humbuckers, hopefully they will be Seymour Duncan sh-4 and sh-2) http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/360778564/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/360778569/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/360778561/ I already fit the strap pins and the guitar balances really well, better than I expected. And obviously you'll want to play it standing up, it really is comfortable thanks to the carve on the back. I haven't work a lot on this one, mainly because I'm still getting all the pieces; I'm gonna work on the fretboard and then I'll buy some strings to fit the graphite nut. On a side note, it's the first time I work with black hardware and it makes me a little nervous, you need to be extra careful not to ruin the black finish. Other than that I'm really glad this is coming really well. Hope to hear your opinions, best regards Alberto

Here´s a page from a catalog that says the SG it's 1 5/16" thin: http://www.everythingsg.com/catalogs/1962%...%20Standard.jpg That webpage helped me a lot when I built my Sg so it probably you'll find it useful as I did. And like Wes said, you probably will be just fine with a 1 3/4" body since you may feel the measure from the catalog a little bit thinner for your taste. Good luck, Alberto

That joint is fine guitar2005, I was very careful preparing the surfaces but to me that's the most difficult part of making a neckthrough: gluing the wings. And this time the wings were at an angle and it was kinda hard to glue them to the center piece. But well, I was checking it and it looks fine I guess, it could be better though. That scarf joint it's just me and my hand plane, to me is easier that way beacuse I can control the surface better I think. Gluing them to me it's a little hard because the small piece tends to move because of the glue. So you need to be very precise (and patient) otherwise you'll end up having a crooked headstock. Then I glue the headstock wings and plane to make a flat surface for the fretboard. I was thinking in building a jig to plane the scarf joints with my router but i haven't had time to make a research. Hey Eddie I know what you mean, man. I´m kinda like a classic-guitar guy you know, Lesters and Sg's so to me this was kind of a challenge. I'm not particular fond to metal-guitars but sometimes it's good to build something you're not accustom with, just to improve your skills. And I'm sure if it's a next time I will know how to make and hyper-metal axe And Nick you're right, a finish can make your guitar great, just average or crap, no matter if its construction is excellent. So there you go, the finish it's really important.

Xanthus that was my main concern and at some point I tought it was not worth it but I really wanted to be as close as the original so I went for it. It was going to be a long wire anyway... well I hope everything will work ok. And I definitely going to shield the cavity with paint, I think. I read that the polyurethane doesn't work on guitars, is that right? The polyester works fine I guess, sometimes I work with piroxilin lacquer on my sculptures but I don't know if it's the same than nitrocellulose lacquer, if it is I'm going to swicth then. Guitar2005 I routed the final outline with a template and then I sanded to even it out, my template wasn't smooth so I had to sand to make a perfect flat surface. And believe me I sanded a lot, I like the surfeces to be very neat and smooth. And what about my glue lines?? yeah I know they're not perfect but I guess that is as close as I can get them to be right now, Alberto can I ask you guys something aside? English is not my native language and sometimes I wish I could participate more on the discussions but I don't feel confident enough with my English writing, do you think it's that bad?? If you can understand me I guess that's enough to me cheers

Hey Wes, I have never seen a humbucker that adjusts underneath... seems I really have a lot to learn. But it sounds like a pretty neat idea. Or did you mean "underneath" like in direct mount? I was thinking that the balance is the main reason of the joint at the 19th fret in this particular guitar. But I think with a good plan it can be possible like ElysianGuitars says. And Nick, about the input jack cavity, well at first it was located in the other spike? horn? (sorry english is not my main language) and was conected directly to the cavity but I noticed that the jack was at the other side so I drilled a hole to the bridge humbucker with a long drill bit. I was lucky that it doesn't pass through the ferrules holes so I think it's ok. Or not? I dont know if it will be a problem having a long wire going from the jack to the cavity in this long route. When you think about it's a cool idea to have the jack there but I think you need drill the hole and then glue the wings, that's how I would do it anyway. And about the finish Xanthus, it's polyester, it's kind of straight forward process really, like any other finish but I think you need practice and luck. Cheers, Alberto

Hey guys, to be honest with you I didn't think about the body joint because I was trying to build the same way as the original ESP. I agree with you in that it probably will be more comfortable though. But what about the neck pickup Wes? the humbucker ring wouldn't be off the body? or maybe too close to the bridge pickup? How do you deal with that? What you say it's a really good point indeed. And also I'm gonna post better pics, they are too dark I think. I also think my brother is a lucky guy Vinnie, cheers Alberto

Hello guys, it's been some time since I posted here, I always check the forum, it has been a lot of help and very inspiring as always. I've been busy with three projects (among other things), this is one of them: a Neckthrough Flying V ala ESP Dave Mustaine DV-8. My brother is a big Megadeth fan and he asked me to build him a guitar so this is what I came up. The neck and body are mahogany, the fretboard is ebony with white binding and jumbo frets. The hardware is black and also the body paint is. I tried to be as close as posible to the original. I'm still learning so to me is like practicing until I feel I can come up with something original. I would like to thank to Doomlord because he was a great help with pics from his original DV8, thanks man. I haven't finish it yet but I'm pretty close, these are some pics: here you can see the neckthrough, http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ the belly contour and control cavity: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ a detail of the bottom flange(?) http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ the heel (still unfinish by the time I took the pic): http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ the volute: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ painted headstock: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ body painted black: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ heel: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ and the rest so far: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27263073@N00/...57594411756928/ I'll post better picks as soon as I finish, it's been real fun to build this kind of guitar. I really like making neckthroughs also. Well, I'm gonna post the two other projects

Here's a Les Paul Junior Doublecut in a DXf format (there's also a DWF plan on the site), maybe it can help: http://www.guitarbuild.com/modules/mydownl...leA&show=10

hey, check here: http://store.guitarfetish.com/labutustblbr.html I guess you can change the face of the last three saddles, cheers Alberto

Hello guys, I've been working on a new project and this one has a bound ebony neck, it's the first time I use ebony so it has been a little bit tough for me. Now I'm putting the frets but I have a problem: the frets don't sit well on the edges of the fretboard, they are a little separated from the binding. I don't know if it´s because of the radius of the frets or maybe should I not tap the frets with a hammer and try to glue them?. The frets are StewMac jumbo and for instance I feel like I have to tap them a lot more harder than with rosewood . Do you think I need to shave the tangs a little bit? I don't really know, but I remember having trouble before with bound necks, maybe you have some advice for me, many thanks Alberto

Underside the bridge says SUNG-IL and on the bottom BM116; it's chinese but it seems good quality: http://www.sung-il.net/ http://www.sung-il.net/bridge/bm_116.html Does anybody knows the brand StewMac's bridge is? I thought it was Gotoh but maybe Mattia is right.

Thanks guys; I also tought about putting it 90 degrees from the center line. Your method is neat Guitarfrenzy, I saw you using it in the building of your blue strat I think, really awesome guitar man and really cool method; sadly around here I can´t find that kind of instrument, probably with a laser pen ina a wooden base? Can you senf me a pic please of your gadget? maybe I can build one... The bridge seems fine to me, it does not look cheap and came here (Peru) in excellent condition; when I order chrome stuff from the States sometimes it arrives with little scratches and dings but this one didn´t have any visible imperfection; I will keep you updated about the bridge but so far so good. That store has some good products, really, it´s the first time I order from them and everything seems good quality, but I have to say that the StewMac bridge looks better, probably it´s a Gotoh. And I hear you Mickguard about the bridges, it has to be a middle ground. And about the LP Junior yeah, I´ve seem quite a lot around here, but hey the more the merrier.

Hello all, I´m buildind a Les Paul Junior replica and I bought one of the intonated bridges Guitarfetish sells http://store.guitarfetish.com/lespajuwrinb.html I would like to know if I have to place it like a tuneomatic bridge (with an angle back) or like a stop tailpiece (forming a 90 degrees with the center line), since its compensated and intonated I really dont know what to do, does anybody know? soon I´ll be posting pics of the building, many thanks Alberto

thanks a lot doomlord, your specs helped me a lot. I´m building a neckthrough V like metallisomething (I´m also a Metallica y Megadeth fan ) Thanks again and welcome to the forums!

I measure 12 15/16" or 32,9cm from John Catto's plans

thanks metallisomething, I was thinking on building it with a ! 3/4" body depth; can you post pics of your neckthrough? it would be cool to see what you´ve got, I bet it awesome. Actually now that I´ve build a neckthrough SG I think that it´s way easier for me to build a neckthrough than a ser neck for instance. hey eddie I don´t think I´m gonna put that 8ball either, I think it looks bad, but I haven´t though on what to inlay. And about the sharkin inlays, mm I built a neck with tha classic gibson custom block inlays and really it´s not that difficult, and seeing your guitar I´m really sure you can.

Hey eddie nice warlock, really cool guitar, is mahogany the body wood? I love the fretboard also, you don´t need any help, you have built a really nice guitar. I order from StewMac or buy some things on sale in music stores, you really need lucky down here But I can find top-quality mahogany, pau ferro, cedar, etc really cheap so I guess that kind of compensate things. I would like to make the most exact replica I can so if you can help me with the measures Haggardguy it would really be apreciate, thanks for the help.

hola Eddie, thanks for the tip; I thought that maybe the ESP and the Jackson where similar in body thickness but my intention at the end is to build an ESP DV8 replica. The guitat will have a tuneomatic bridge, I was planning on making a 3 degree angle, so no floyd for me I know what you mena about the bound fretboard and inlays nut just give it a go, I sure you'll do it fine, cheers Anybody can confirm the 1 3/4" body thickness? thanks for the help

Hi guys, it´s been I while since I post here, I´ve been busy but gladly I found some time to build a couple of new guitars Well, I need help: I´ve been looking for the body thickness of the ESP dv8, see my brother if a Mustaine fan so I´m building an exact replica. I read in the archives that the Jackson Rhoads it´s 4,5cm (or 1 3/4") but that seems a little bit too much; maybe I´m wrong (I thought it was 1 1/2"); so I´m looking for different measures, maybe a Jackson King or something along the Flying V lines. Hope you can help me, if anybody need a measure from that guitar or the tracing I´d gladly help. Cheers Alberto

Felíz cumpleaños!!! cheers Alberto (saw your guitars, they´re coming out really awesome!)

Thanks guys, you all have good points, that´s why I love this forum The string broke before and after I smooth the string slot. That keep me wondering about the slot but I´ll check it with a magnifiyng glass. Does anybody know how close the first string can get to the 1st fret? (string height wise) I´m about 0.18, maybe I can try to lower it a little bit and correct the suspecting string pinching. The string broke very close to the string post, like 1/4" maybe less, if I try to pull the broken string from the bridge it gets really close to the string post, so that´s why I was thinking in sharp edges, but when I changed the tuner, well that puzzled me. Hi Frank, let me see if I understand you: you´re suggesting me that I should wrap the string with a lot of turns and the final wrap would be closer to the bottom where the string post is smoother? Matt, are you saying the same? (my english is not quite good). I tried something similar with the .011 string, I wrapped almost all the string towards the bottom but it broke anyway. I´m blaming on the cheap tuners But i´ll check the string slot and the tuner post with a magnifiyng glass.

Yeah, I also thought about that and swap the 1st tuner for the 4th, but it also broke the string. Thanks Matt I will try that, so propably it was the cheap tuner uh?

Hi guys, this has never happened before, I don´t know what to do... I just broke the fourth 1st string I put on my new guitar. First it rattled a little bit when I play in open position, so I sanded the slot a little bit and the buzz stopped. But suddenly the .010 string broke at about 1/4" from the tuner (maybe with the tension it can get to the tuner...). I replaced it but it broke again. That happened a couple of times and now when I changed to .011 the string broke again when I was tuning! That has never happened with my other guitars but this is the first 6-in-line I build so I don´t know if it has something to do with. Does it happen often with 6-in-lines tuners? Do you think it could be the Dixon tuners (a taiwanese brand)? Please help, I don´t know what to do. Alberto

Here are some pics I took of the process: Here´s one when I finish to route the body and the pickups cavities, notice that I route deeper the holes, that´s because I have a back problem and I can´t stand a lot of weight in my shoulders for a long time This pic shows the neckplate, I also made this from scratch. I use a piece of stainless steel a friend gave me; it was triangular so I decided to build a three-bolt neck joint. It´s pretty stabble, I was afraid of a weak neck joint but it holds on nicely. And finally the headstock after the modification; the neck was from a Squier Stratocaster so I adapted it to become similar to the Tele headstock. It´s not exactly the same but it´s close enough I guess. If you want more pics just ask, I have a couple more, cheers Alberto

Hello all, this is my third guitar, I just finished it and I´m really happy with the results. It´s a Tele thinline-style guitar with a one-block solid mahogany body, a rosewood/maple neck with a three-bolt neck joint (I also built the plate from a piece of stainless steel, it´s pretty easy I swear), 21 frets and a 12" radius. It also have a fixed bridge with through the body strings, a Golden Age single coil and Golden Age humbucker from StewMac, a three way switch, a miniswitch for the humbucker (to go from h to single), 1 tone and 1 volume. The finish is nitro on the neck and poly on the body. I´m really happy with this one, I feel like with the LP and the neckthrough SG I learned so much and have the chance to apply what I learned here. My goal was to try to build a guitar with very little money but that would come out nice. Cheers Alberto