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albertop

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  1. albertop
    Thanks for your responses, 13/16" is the distance between the top of the body and the the top of the saddle (exactly where the strings rests). I have another guitar, a 335 copy and the height at the lower E is 11/16" that why I think maybe I will have problem once I glue the neck. I don´t know if I can lower the neck because the fretboard rests against the body.
  2. albertop
    Hi everybody, I´m in the final stages of making my LP copy (this is the first time I´ve build a guitar) and in the plans I drew a 4 degree neck angle which seemed right at the time. Now that I put the neck (I haven´t glue it yet) the tuneomatic seems a little high, like about 13/16" (2,1 cm) from the top of the body to the lower E saddle. Is that right? isn´t that too high? I´m a little concerned because I don´t know if the truss rod can correct the problem. Does anybody have a suggestion? will I need to shim the bottom of the neck hole? thanks. Alberto
  3. albertop
    thanks Martin, I just don´t get the measures, what do you mean with between pickups (not between pickup routes)? do you mean the inner sides of the pickups or the between inner sides of the pickup rings? whats the measure between outer sides? I´m sorry but English isn´t my first language, hope you can help, thanks a lot.
  4. albertop
    Hello, I would like to know what´s the distance between pickups in a SG, I know that because of the neck construction the neck pickup in closer to the bridge pickup, but I really don´t know how much. If anybody knows please, let me know, thanks alot.
  5. albertop
    Well, I took the measures from John Catto´s Template (you can found them in the MIMF, but you need to be registered; the plans are in the library) and they are pretty accurate: waist: 18,4 cm (7 1/4 ") hips: 33 cm (13 ") lenght: 43,7 cm (17 3/16") Hope that helps, best regards Alberto
  6. albertop
    Something similar happened to me on my first guitar, a LP copy. While I was making the carve top I accidentally carved way to much and you can saw the wood beneath the top. But I painted all black to look like a black beauty, so don´t worry, it will look OK. Or maybe you can put an original inlay. I think I saw J.Hetfield´s (from Metallica) LP that have a metal cross in that place, maybe somebody was covering a screw up Check some custom LP´s to get an original idea. good luck.
  7. albertop
    Really cool guitar! I also like the shape of the pickguard. Hey Goran that firebird looks awesome, I have your plans fot that guitar and I´m definitely doing one too
  8. albertop
    Parece ser que hay más hispanohablantes de lo que pensé , ya parece colonia hispana este post. Saludos del Perú amigos
  9. albertop
    I saw the hipshot bridge and yeah, you have room for compensation. I´m using a tunomatic & stop tailpiece, but I still think I can manage some changes. I discovered that I messed up with the plans so now I can correct them.
  10. albertop
    Thanks a lot for all your replies. Now I get it; see my first language isn´t English so I got confused because it says in the name of the product "Gibson 24 3/4"scale fingerboard". Now I understand that the fretboard has the 24 9/16" scale but I need to place the lower E side of the bridge 24 3/4" for compensation, right? You have helped me a lot, thanks you all.
  11. albertop
    Hello, I ordered a gibson 24 3/4" scale fingerboard from StewMac and I have a question: they said that it is based on a 24 9/16" scale Gibson uses, but when I measured the distance of the frets from the nut it seems more like a 24 9/16" than a 24 3/4" scale (acording to Hiscock book's measurements, I measured the 12th, 16th and the 22th frets from the nut and it seem to be 24 9/16" not 24 3/4"), am I wrong?. I´m having trouble locating the bridge- please tell me what scale use: the 24 3/4" or the 24 9/16", thanks a lot.
  12. albertop
    wow frank your story totally convinced me; allright, it will be without the dowels then, thanks a lot for your quick responses.
  13. albertop
    I´m building a neckthru SG style guitar (looks like a popular choice in this forum ) and I was thinking in using dowels to join the body and neck, does it seem a little cautious?, the body thickness is 1 3/8", I know it would work but maybe I don´t need to, thanks.
  14. albertop
    Hi, just a few examples: Les Paul 3 - 4,5 degrees Sg 2-2,5 firebird 3-3,5
  15. albertop
    Maybe you should consider making the template yourself, I haven´t seen any LP neck pocket template, but I know the measures: -long tenon:108 mm x 38 mm ( according to John Catto´s plans) -short tenon:3" x 1 3/16" (according to Stew Mac´s plans) Hope this helps
  16. albertop
    Thanks a lot guys, I will check the R6 and the R7, I think it would be better instead of messing with the nut, do you think I can find one on ebay? To me it would be easier than buying one from Schaller. Thanks anyway, you´ve been very helpful, best regards Alberto
  17. albertop
    I tought about grinding the truss rod end a little so the nut would fit a flat surface, I think it´s better than using a different nut size, thanks for your replies. I just have one question: how would I just shims in a over the bullet nut? that´s not clear to me, if one of you could explain it to me it would be appreciated, later Alberto
  18. albertop
    Hello all, this is my first post here, I´m Alberto and I wanna install a locking nut in my Strat neck (1 11/16"), and when I was fitting the nut I noticed the truss rod end protuding the level I need to install the nut , my question is: can I shave this metal part to fit the flat bottom of the nut (1 11/16") or I just need to put a 1 5/8" locking nut that fits over a bullet nut ( but this locking nut wouldn´t match the 1 11/16" neck width). hope you can help, Alberto
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