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erikbojerik

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Everything posted by erikbojerik

  1. erikbojerik
    update?
  2. erikbojerik
    these?
  3. erikbojerik
    The one-piece necks are actually a bit more prone to twisting and warping than a neck with a separate fingerboard, because there is no separate piece of wood to work against the grain of the neck wood. The skunk stripe on a 1-piece neck helps.
  4. erikbojerik
    OK, now you need to take the move to the next level.... ....the next logical progression..... ...think "hula hoop"....
  5. erikbojerik
    Is juniper a hard-enough wood to use for the neck? Especially for a bass? I don't know what grows up there, but around here juniper is a really flexible kind of low bush. I think evergreen woods in general are fairly soft (think pine and spruce) and might not be the best neck material. Probably OK for the wings.
  6. erikbojerik
    knobs are really cool i didnt really get the idea of making your own at first then i thought about it you can really get some pretty cool looking things going it might be cool if people posted pics of their fave knobs oh by the way theres a key on your keyboard that you can use any time it works at the end of sentences to sort of put an end to the stream of consciousness kind of output which is really ponderous to read the guy who invented our alphabet thought it up i think its called the period and its really easy to use here i'll show you . there
  7. erikbojerik
    Look for Wes' Deft nitro in gallon cans. I've seen it occasionally at those smaller home paint specialty stores (not the Depot or Walmart). Just call around and you should be able to find some. Thin it out as needed and away you go.
  8. erikbojerik
    Raising the action could help; it is certainly an easy thing to try, easier than a refret. The further down the neck it is buzzing, the more it will help. However, it will NOT help if the first fret is too low (and it is buzzing, say, on the second fret). If you get buzzing in the first fret position, but not the second, then I think its the first fret being too low.
  9. erikbojerik
    Most of the wood in Home Depot is pine. Stay away from pine for a guitar...very soft and warpy, and can have a bit of sap in it. Great for building your house, sux for guitar.
  10. erikbojerik
    Nut shim won't help you then...when you push on the string behind the first fret, the height of the string is set by the fret height. Sounds like first fret might be too low; lay a really straight straight-edge on the frets and see if you see a gap. You could either replace the first fret, or lower the offending downstream frets where the strings are actually making contact. I'd take the first suggestion, as indiscriminant fret-lowering can easily cause problems at other places on the neck, especially with low action. Its also possible the neck has a slight twist.
  11. erikbojerik
    Remember the blanks are 1-piece at this stage; it would be nice to keep them 1-piece, but not critical. I'm not too worried about the routing, but the possibility of popping out the skunk stripe does worry me a bit.
  12. erikbojerik
    Nice pants! Nice axe too!
  13. erikbojerik
    KrazyD, how thin are you able to go with the StewMac double rods? That was one thing i worried about. I'm already at 0.9". My plan was (is?) to try to install these from the back and slam in a skunk stripe. Anyone tried that?
  14. erikbojerik
    Definitely goes green...like the awning over my bay window. Could give it a cool antiquey-moldy vibe...
  15. erikbojerik
    I hear you Dave... Truthfully, one reason I'm asking is that I'm on a budget and the single-action rods are cheaper (which means I could afford some fretwire with this order, too!), but with flame maple I worry a bit about neck warp and stability, and I just figured the double-action rod would help. (Warmoth is another place that offers a double-X rod)
  16. erikbojerik
    I have a pair of 1-piece (3-4A) flame maple neck blanks that I roughed out of a single 1-1/4 inch-thick board. The "mother board" had a bit of warp when I got it (sanded on one side but not the other, thanks Wood World!) but I managed to sand both blanks flat, they're now ~0.9 inch thick and haven't warped any further in the 3 months they've been sitting around. The plan is to keep them 1-piece and install the rod from the back w/skunk stripe (also maple, strips from the same board but with grain reversed). I've heard that figured woods can be a bit unstable for use as necks. So I was about to pull the trigger on some StewMac double-X rods, but then read some disparaging comments in another forum about necks that are "...more metal than wood...". Whaddaya think? Would the stability be OK with a standard rod?
  17. erikbojerik
    But it won't sound exactly like an alder strat either, although a maple neck with an ebony fretboard should help brighten it up.
  18. erikbojerik
    Best piece of spalted anything that I've ever seen. Well done, keep the pics coming!
  19. erikbojerik
    Hollowbodies sound the way they do because the soundboard vibrates; so does a solidbody, just less. Does the pickup know the difference? Depends... You can't pick/strum in the same place the same way twice, exactly...(try subtracting one audio file from the other...) Amps always sound better after they've been on for an hour (compared to just starting one up fresh...) Anecodal? Who cares? Just fuss with it 'till it makes you happy. Then you're done. That's the left-brain way of doing it.
  20. erikbojerik
    My way...(with 1 neck under my belt, but I did think about it for ~ a month before starting...) 1. Cut the taper of the neck blank (and install truss rod) 2. Cut the taper of the fret board to match 3. Glue board onto neck blank 4. Radius the board (sanding blocks) and sand flush the edges of the neck 5. Cut the fret slots 6. Touch up the board with radius block (to trim any burrs from fret slotting) 7. Install the frets 8. Do the fret work 9. Contour the back of the neck (always last for me) I cut the slots after radiusing because I think if you do it before, then you run the risk of "rounding" the edges of the slot with the sander, which would make for a poor fret fit.
  21. erikbojerik
    Another option (which is more work but inexpensive) is to just take 1/8" off the top then slap on a 1/8" thick maple top, trim & sand edges flush with body, and go from there. You get a semi-chambered body.
  22. erikbojerik
    See "Brazilian Rosewood"...in a capitalistic world, the market will dictate what happens (good and bad).
  23. erikbojerik
    Why use locking tuners with a fixed bridge? I see no reason so long as you're using decent tuners to begin with, and you wind the string properly (not too many turns around the post). The strings will stretch, the entire instrument will shrink & swell with temperature, and the lockers will just end up being an impediment to tuning up every time this happens (which is nearly every day in my experience). I play a stock LP a lot and no matter what, I always need to tune up a little bit every time I pick it up. And its not because the tuners slip.
  24. erikbojerik
    Looks to me like either a Ecko Goya or Vox... ...at least that's what I've read. There's a guy who periodically sells a few bodies of these on the 'bay. The slanted neck pup, body shape, and location of knobs are identical.
  25. erikbojerik
    OK...my first fret installation is looming. How do you guys like to seat your frets? Hammer? Those Jaw-pliers things? Caul on a drill press (like Brian's tutorial)? (in order of cost....) And as for glues...do you guys glue 'em in, or just press 'em in? What kind of glue? This is for a brand-new board, not a re-fret. thanks!
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