pariah223

glad you did... i never saw this before and im glad i did, pretty cool. what became of it?

very cool videos, always love to see other peoples methods

I have never built any guitars that were for other people so this has never been an issue. It doesnt seem to be an issue with electrics as much, but acoustic guitars, once strung and played, seem to change a little bit from the initial specs. The truss rods seem to need a little tightening, the action sometimes gets a little higher or lower.. I dont know if its a flaw in my builds, or if its just the nature of acoustic gutiars.. But after a little while they seem to settle in and become more quite a bit more stable. Do any of you have like a set set in time where you have the guitar strung, and play it to break it in? or do you string it up, hear a few notes, and send it on its way?

im about to start building a thinline tele with my father, this has been a great build to follow so far! How deep do you route the hollow?... or i guess a better question to ask, how much material is left on the back?

i personally have never seen pearl as the actual binding on the guitar.. plenty of purfling.. but not full binding. would be curious to see if anyone has.

about the walnut polishing.. saw this link a few days ago, so its funny that you bring that up.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5843223_polish-walnut-shells.html

never tried it, but figured i would share anyway.

its funny, i just saw this on a website the other day and thought to myself "hm, never saw this before". They dont seem to have pearl but its still something.

http://www.cookwoods.com/Mineral%20page.htm

are you guys talking about the allparts double action truss rod? I recently had trouble with hot rod rods and was actually looking for an alternative myself... Sorry for the partial hijack!

finally got my copy! havnt looked through it thouroughly yet, but it is very packed full of information from what i saw. Touches on topics that a lot of the other books dont like 12 strings and resonators. so far so good!

can you post a picture of what you have?

what do you mean by half inch chips? If each piece is a half inch square.. you basically got a bag of scraps and off cuts it sounds which still has its uses, but is less valuable then a bag of bigger pieces. I was at a luthier expo type thing in woodstock NY about a month ago, and a guy was selling nice sized bags of pearl in varying sizes, but most were at least a couple inches long by an inch tall. I payed about 30 bucks for the whole bag.

Does anyone use a bigger 220v one? Thinking it would be more powerful and efficient but I don't know a thing about these

I bought a delonghi from lowes to see if it does the job.. I assume these take a while to heat up but they maintain there heat well? I've had it on in my shop for about a half hour and have seen only a 2 degree increase from 42 to 44.. Lol my shop is 19 by 13.. Well insulated

I have never seen one of these... What exactly is the oil filled feature. Its still an electric heater right?

I had no idea Melvyn Hiscock frequented this forum. Your other electric guitar book is like my bible, so i am very eager to get this book. When can i get it in the US?

I recently moved into a house that has a 1 car garage (about 250 sq feet). Its a pretty small space and is fully insulated and everything but the ceiling is sheetrocked and taped. It currently has no heat in it and i have been using a kerosene heater to keep it warm when im working in there. I want to move to a better heating system that is less toxic and can be left on low when im not using the space. I am thinking of either getting a propane tank and a vent free heater, or going with a dayton g73 electric heater. Was just looking to get some insight from everyone here. I live in NY so i have pretty cold winters, but not completely brutal. Thanks!

heres another question. I had a little trouble when i routed the compound radius into my fingerboard. Test piece worked fine as usual but then i ended up going a little farther then i wanted to and the thickness of the center of the fingerboard at the nut end is around .200 and at the bridge end is about .23 .. is this too thin or should i be fine? Only real issue i see is maybe my side dots might look odd.

So i know that a compound radius is a tighter smaller radius at the nut and a larger radius at the bridge end of the fingerboard.. but what troubles me about it is this.. If your radius at the nut is smaller... as you go down the fingerboard and the radius gets bigger, so is the thickness of the soundboard right? and wouldnt that cause trouble getting low action? IM sure im missing something obvious but it just dosnt seem to make sense to me yet. Thanks

When I was 15 years old I bought a guitar from my local music shop for £30. It was a sg copy and the body was really badly chipped. I just slapped on some car body filler then sprayed it black and sold it for £80.

Using bondo on a guitar is illegal... be careful

I have only worked with plastic binding once, and did not have this problem.. But could it be as simple as going a little easier with the scraper to smooth it out? I personally wouldnt be comfortable using solvents and stuff on the attached binding..

Not trying to shoot you down.. but judging by your posts, it sounds like you have little or no experience with woodworking. Guitar making requires a lot of complex woodworking processes that take years to get good at. Particularly acoustic guitars. A first thought would be do some smaller, less expensive projects to start out. Get the feel for the tools, and how things work. If you have no interest in anything other than guitars. I would suggest starting out with an electric guitar instead. Still very complicated but your working with solid wood that needs no bracing or bending. Just my 2 cents.. would hate to see an aspiring luthier get discouraged!

Best of luck and welcome to the Forum!

I would be interested to see if anyone prefers these types of sanders to random orbital disk sanders. I use a random orbital.. a porter cable quicksand and i love it.. thats about all the input i can give.

Alot of things cause orange peel, and orange peel is normal to have when you spray your finish. You have to level it down by wet sanding after it has completely cured which varies by the product you shoot. If your sanding down to your primer, you have definatly not put enough coats of clear on the guitar. I usually do not use single stage paints (as opposed to base coat/clear coat) so i cant really give any info on wetsanding and buffing out. But i can give a little bit of info about how to reduce your peel to make your sanding job easier. I have noticed that if i have the pressure too low, it results in a more peely finish. Also, thinning out your paint with the appropiate solvent can make the world of difference.. but your more likely to experience runs. Do you have more closeup shots of the finish? Its hard to tell but that picture looks like you might have some dust problems.. but it might just be the way the light is reflecting.

i thinki might just break down and build a fox style bender. What blankets do you guys use, whats the right size to get, and where can i find em? Thanks!

Also, do you need 1 or 2 blankets? I have noticed some people seem to use 2 by looking at older threads.. but is that required?

I am a little confused on the fox bender. does it use both lightbulbs and blankets? or are there just 2 different ways of skinning the cat?