mammoth guitars

2 8 ohm speakers in parallel will provide a 4 ohm load.

There are two ways the 4 speakers can be wired in series/parallel 1) wire each pair of speakers (2) in parallel (4 ohms) then wire them in series with each other (adds to 8 ohms) http://home.earthlink.net/~iktoblikto/series_parallel.pdf 2) wire each pair of speakers in series (16 ohms) then parallel (8 ohms) http://home.earthlink.net/~iktoblikto/parallel_series.pdf In either case with 4 50 watt speakers you will have a 200 watt power handling capacity.

This is why the reference to "truly series". They are only in series if both are used.

It would be highly unusual for an amp to have outputs that are truly wired in series. This would require both outputs to be used or no sound would come out of the speakers. More likely is that when one or both outputs are used the minimum load is 4 ohms when the selector is set to 4 and a min of 8 ohms when set to 8. This would allow you to connect two 8 ohm cabinets or speakers when the selector is set to 4 ohms. Generally 4x12 guitar cabs are wired series/parallel to achieve a specific rating of 4, 8 or 16 ohms. A 3.2 ohm load would be to low in this instance and could cause damage to the amp as it would be lower than the minimum of 4 ohms.

Grind off only the number of threads above the saddle on the bottom of the screw then screw them back in from the bottom of the saddle. You could use a die if needed as GuitarGuy mentioned but you should not need it.

Sounds like the neck pocket is too deep. You can grind down the screws versus trying to find alternates.

Here is a working link: http://www.guitarcrazy.com.au/EpiRivoliBass.htm That appears to be a hollow body and the switch is installed through the pickup hole. You might just desolder the wires from the switch and solder to the new switch without removing the wire from the other controls.

Typically fixed tone positions can be obtained by using trim style pots and pre-adjusting them to taste and using one capacitor. Using a toggle switch provideds a much faster switching method than rotary switches. Further your reference to uF is a capacitor value term not a resistor. And the values 250, 500 and 1000 uF shorted to ground like a traditional tone control would do nothing but act like a volume control. You will need to use much smaller capacitor values. Typcial values are between .047uF to .022uF. If your reference for fixed resistor was to mean 250k, 500k and 1000k that would not make that much difference in the tone control either, you will need much smaller resistance values. The tone control operates by decreasing resistance between the cap and the output from the volume or the cap to ground. The cap acts like a bypass shunting the higher frequencies to ground or rolling them off. There is a fixed position tone control with a rotary switch on the market from Stellartone called Tone Styler.

Those switchcraft type large toggle switches (ala LP) do have crosstalk, however the cheaper box type do not. Just something to add.

It could be glue, especially if its between or around caps. Or it could be left over from something that was spilled on it years ago.

Maple tops on LPs are 5/8 inch thick. It might be easier to calculate the inverse sine using the string height and bridge.

1) The pots are most likely wore in the spots you describe at position 4. Cleaning them with an electronics cleaner may help but you will need to disassemble it. 2) Yes removing those screws on top should allow you to slide out the amp chassis for inspection or repair. Be careful when sliding out the chassis, sometimes the tolex or outisde covering may be stuck to the metal work and can tear. 3) Modifying the distortion section and/or updating the opamps with higher quality pieces are the common mods we make on any amps.

There is a lot more to sustain characteristics than the neck joint. The bridge type, nut, movement inside the nut and saddles, mass of the headstock and neck wood species all contibute to how the strings sustain.

It should work, however you will not get the full output from your pickups and the sound will darken up a bit.

We have the jack in stock and the switch with a cream knob.

Spanky, I am sure this is confusing as it appears you now wired the kill switch back to the way I originaly told you. Either way will work and the idea is to short the signal to ground so nothing is sent to the amp. If you merely used the switch to disconnect the signal from the output jack versus shorting it to ground then it would probably cause hum in the amp when you enabled the kill switch. You still however have the tone control blue wire on the outside leg and it should be connected to the middle wiper lead of the pot.

Its approximately .8 degrees inward.

Check if there is continuity from the saddle to ground. Some of the piezo saddles are not conductive and your strings will not be grounded unless you use a different method of grounding.

Matt, are you just looking for a special deal or are you located somewhere where you cannot get parts?

No. The killswitch needs both red lines connected. The blue wire on the tone should be on the middle leg. What are you trying to do with the dpdt on the humbucker?

You can use the SPDT in place of the SPST it will not make any difference in sound for this case.

No you do not need to ground a pole on the pickup switch. The humbucker should have 5 wires, 2 for each coil and 1 braded shield. If its a new pickup there should be a diagram that came with it to explain the color code of the wires. I assume you are using the DPDT to switch to single coil mode? Well you really only need a SPST for this since the middle of the coil be grounded for single coil mode. The DPDT can be used for this as well so there is not really an output from the DPDT switch. Typcially the red or hot can be run straight to your SPST switch.

Run the pickups to your on/off switches then all together at the volume pot. Tone pot then can be wired to the volume pot just like the varitone. You may want to use a SPDT on your kill switch and run one side to ground and the other to the output jack with the output from the volume pot in the middle. This will keep the amp quiet when the kill switch is off.

Is that a bolt on neck? Sometimes the V guitars have the strap button on one of the screws going into the neck plate. I could not tell where the upper strap button was located - it does not appear to be in the middle. A picture from the back would help.

For that small of a change draw the outline across the back and sides (keeping the neck pocket side angles) and use a chisel along the lines. Smooth with a scraper.