Armaan

Engraving: I’m planning to engrave my signature on the guitar - probably on the control cavity cover plate. I plan to draw the signature in pencil, mark it with a marking knife and then go over it with a drill that I’ve borrowed my parents (pictured below). My parents are dentists and this drill is used in preparing something dental models, grinding metal fittings etc. I don’t have access to a dremel, scroll saw or a router with a fine bit, but this seems like it works in the same way. I’ve already put two layers of Danish on the back plate - could it ignite when I use the drill? I plan to practice on an unfinished offcut and an offcut finished with Danish. Any other ideas? I can think of engraving it on the headstock or getting a brass plate engraved and inlaying or screwing the plate somewhere on the body or headstock.

Yes! That’s why I try and check the technical specifications for each product and understand the actual chemical components. I’ve seen enough YouTube videos now on the difference between poly, varnish and lacquer

Pickup Covers: Here are the pickup covers I will be using. Had them made via CNC on black acrylic. They were quite glossy, so I scuffed it down with some wet sandpaper. These are arrow head shaped on the side that faces the bridge to match the fretboard. They’re a bit thick on the sides, but I made them this way to make sure they’re strong and I have enough place to drill screw holes.

Makes sense. I’ll run some tests and see how it goes. October is pretty hot and dry in Mumbai, so I could work on the finish then. I’ll have a couple of months to check on the results of the tests by then. Thanks!

I will wait for it to cure properly between coats. I'm keeping it in a dry place with ventilation. I don't have a dehumidifier, but I have placed some dessicants around it to absorb moisture. I am planning to apply 3 coats of Danish in total and then 2-3 coats of Poly, instead of trying to build up a sheen with many coats of Danish. I'm currently leaning towards a glossier finish and hence the additional poly coats. I figure if I don't like the gloss of the poly top coat I can always scuff it to a matte/satin finish. Does this make sense? In terms of compatibility with the Danish, I found a local gloss poly for interior application. It has these ingredients: (i) Urethane Alkyd Resin - 90/95% (ii) Mineral Turpentine Oil - 7/8% (iii) Driers - Zirconium and Cobalt This should be a compatible with the Danish as a top coat right? The Danish is a mix of Raw Linseed Oil, PU Varnish and mineral spirits.

Well it’s hot and humid here. About 30C/86F and 75%humidity. When wiping the guitar with a paper towel it does get slightly greasy, but not that much. Should the guitar feel like it hasn’t been oiled at all before I apply my next coat? The box for the Danish oil says this takes 10-14 hours to dry.

Oil finish: I applied one coat of Danish oil last night with a paper towel. I waited for it to become dry and tacky (approx. 15mins) and then wiped it down with a clean paper towel. It has been about 12 hours since. The surface is dry and slightly oily. How long should I wait before applying another coat? Do I need to wait for it to become fully dry before the next coat? Here are some images of the process. Probably the most rewarding part of the build so far - awesome to see the wood come to life.

Plenty of doubts for sure!

Thanks! It’s been a great learning experience.

Fretboard: I used brass dot inlays for the fret markers. Radius sanded the block to a 12inch radius. Used a traditional Indian kitchen pestle to hammer in the frets! Plus some beer

Bridge and string height: I placed the bridge and ran a few red strings through it to make sure it lines up. At the lowest height of the bridge, the strings are 2mm above the fretboard (i.e. without the frets).

Truss rod cover: I was initially planning to leave the truss rod access open. I reconsidered it and designed a truss rod cover with a brass inlay. The brass inlay is a logo I designed using my initials (A-P).

I assumed it was simply made using lemons!

How about the Danish instead? Would the BLO be worth buying separately just for the fretboard?

12 coats! Really? I was thinking along the lines of 2-3 coats! I’ll experiment with a bookmark I’m making from an offcut. For the fretboard, I am planning to use Daddario Hydrate - which is described as a mixtures of oils and cleaners. See below - https://www.daddario.com/products/accessories/care-maintenance-tools/polishes-cloths/hydrate-fingerboard-conditioner/ Or should I use their lemon oil? - see below https://www.daddario.com/products/accessories/care-maintenance-tools/polishes-cloths/lemon-oil/ I already have Hydrate, but I can get the lemon oil if that’s better.

I found a local brand that sells BLO (mixed with dryers) and Danish oil (mix of linseed oil. PU and mineral spirits). The Danish oil seems a better option as it would give me the benefits of the linseed oil look with PU protection added. Would you agree? Although it seems that the danish will take longer to dry than the BLO, which is mixed with dryers. Attaching a snapshot comparison of the two below

It does have black paint. Will make sure to scuff it. Thanks!

Got it, thanks.

Ground wire: Should I be drilling a hole from under the bridge to the control cavity for a ground wire? The ground wire will sit under the bridge? Anything to keep in mind?

I can use D'addario's instrument care wax that I have - I believe it is carnauba wax. Makes sense - can decide later depending on how the BLO turns out. Thanks

That sounds nice and I think I’ll just stick with the BLO. Yes! I’ve been using this to make different sanding surfaces. I made a block for flat sanding and stuck sandpaper to some tubes for sanding curved surfaces.

Unfortunately those cost a lot to ship to India and some don’t ship to India at all. It’s really difficult to get luthier supplies here - the guitar building market is virtually non-existent in India. Though I agree that it would be better to use a block and am planning to get one made via CNC.

In that case, would a BLO finish be sufficient to offer relatively good protection? Or is it worth the hassle of tinkering with poly? I'm not that keen on a glossy finish.

Neck profile: Worked on the neck profile using a contour guage, a rasp and sandpaper. Still needs a bit of work to get it down to the final shape. . .

Fretboard Radius: Is it essential to use a radius block or can I get a good result making a radius template? I was thinking of printing an autocad template and sticking it on cardboard to use as a reference. I can’t think of a reason why that wouldn’t work. Finishing: I am planning to use boiled linseed oil for the finish. Tried it out on an offcut and I think it looks nice. I’ve read that I should clean the guitar with mineral spirits or isopropyl alchohol before applying an oil finish. Is that right? I’m not familiar at all with any of these processes or materials. Also is it a good idea to apply a coat or two of polyurethane after the BLO? I’ve read it adds extra protection and can be sanded for a glossier finish.