spindlebox

Well this is a little frustrating. As you can see by the photos I did everything I was supposed to do and actually measured my bobbin with calipers and entered the correct dimensions. I even went slightly above "Tight scatter" which is kind of what I figured I was doing, I may have to go to loose machine? It looks like I can almost fit another 1500 winds on there however. I may just do that!! Not sure how this guy developed that chart, but my experience at this point is shaky with it.

I know for a fact what these measurements are now: LENGTH = distance between outside of high E and low E poles, placed in the flatwork (horizontally) WIDTH = thickness of the poles themselves (it's one of the choices when purchasing) HEIGHT = inside measurement of bottom and top flatwork - clearance for wire FLANGE = width of top bobbin flatwork (as you stated) I'm going to give this a go, I was waiting for some longer pole pieces so I could get a .5" height.

That makes sense.

Understood, but I just wish I knew what "FLANGE" was. I sent a message to the creator of this calculator a couple days ago and haven't heard back.

Maybe it's the base of the flatwork.

You know what is the difference between the height and the flange? I can understand the other measurements but I don't know what the flange is.

Yeah but I wonder if that's something somebody could do with A hand built scatterwound. I doubt it. I just find all of this interesting. It's fun to experiment.

YES, because until I do, I won't know what it's like. It's for a customer and I like a challenge. Bare Knuckle Has their "SINNER" line which boasts 15-20K per, they must be using wire like that. I have a few messages out to wire manufacturers right now, so we'll see what I find out. I'll post here in case anyone is curious.

He just asked me to make him a really hot ~10K pickup and I like a challenge. Everything I do that I haven't done before is a learning experience. No, he wants a single coil. Yeah, looks like I need to get some finer wire. If you'll notice, that calculator goes up to 55! Bare knuckle pickups have their "SINNER", line that boast 15-20K. They must be using wire like that.

I am looking for sources for wire that is smaller than 44 AWG. 50 and up!! I am looking to make some super hot single coil pickups. Your assistance would be appreciated!!

OK I have done a little bit more research and apparently I can use a smaller gauge wire to make it happen. I'm gonna post again again in here so I can get a little bit more eyes on it, but I'm looking for a source for a wire that is above 44 AWG. I would love to get 50. I can't find anything above 44 at the moment. Sources?

Hello all. I am wondering, (and I've done some Googling with little luck), if anyone knows if getting a 10K single coil pickup is even possible? I have a customer that wants one, and I would need to get at least 10K winds on a bobbin to do it - according to this calculator (http://www.jdguitarworks.com/coil/coil.html) I have had trouble - with the current poles I have, even getting 7500. Now, I guess I could get the tallest poles available (.780) and try that? See, the 7500 got me a reading of 6400 and he wants WAY more than that! I'm still kind of new at this - just wondering if there's anything I can do to "juice it up!" Thanks!!!!

OK, so I'm going to start with 50 and 52 and go from there. Thanks!

I guess in answer to your very 1st statement, what would those be?

I mean you could do it if you had a way to design your own flat work and even 3-D print them, Or manufacture them somehow. There are a couple of things I am considering for future, 3-D printer for just such type work and CNC machine for templates.

Hello all! All a beginning luthier, I'm trying to decide on what string spacing to use - generally - for my guitars. Something that will enable me to use a greater variety of bridges, etc., for my builds. I'm just looking for something that will work in most cases. I'm planning on purchasing a jig, for instance, that will make pickup making a bit easier. (https://tlcguitargoods.com/nl/flatwork-pers-jig-54mm-string-spacing.html); I assembled a single coil bobbin yesterday and it was pretty difficult without a jig - though I put together a few handmade items which made it easier, and I was ultimately successful. Problem with this is, a jig is only good for ONE string spacing. This is why I want to get one that might serve me moving forward, as I plan on making my own pickups. It will extend of course to the actual flatwork I purchase as well, and I want to buy in bulk. This is the main reason for this thread. I would even consider using a couple different spacings if it will serve me better as well. What say you? I know Fender can vary from 52 to 55mm for instance. I don't have a set maker of hardware that I use yet, though I have had good luck with Wilkinson, and of course Fender for some of their items. I just thought I would start a discussion, and pick your brains a bit! Thanks in advance.

Yes, the KREG table has a wide port that works VERY well. Like I said, for table routing this thing is excellent! Thanks for your input.

I just did a little research on the internet, and I found a thread here on ProjectGuitar that specifically recommends the Dewalt hand held router I'm looking at (DWP611), saying it can "manage virtually all jobs".

Ok good advice! Sorry for your experience with Triton. Like I said, as a router for my table, it's unbelievably great and I'm pretty happy with it. I just did get that new attachment and hose I mentioned above, and it fits NICE and snug in that clear port, so I believe I have that solved. I just wish I could see better while I'm routing. Thank goodness for templates and roller bearings! So even if you pre-drill cavities/pockets with a forstner bit, you still need at least a 2hp router? I would think it would make short work of it after that.

So I have the Triton MOF001 and it's a pretty fantastic machine, except for a couple things. Firstly, the dust collection port is excessively difficult to use, and a few adaptors I've bought have underperformed miserably. I think I'm on the right track by getting the blue tipped collar type (pictured on this thread) for the dust port, and I am optimistic about it, as it is supposed to be slightly flexible. The problem is with the port: there is nothing for a connector to grab onto, and everything slides out easily. I've taken to duct taping the end onto the router and that's worked, but it's obviously not ideal. if it wasn't for the next problem, I'd probably be content. However, when using this router, is it EXCESSIVELY difficult to see what I'm doing through the plastic guard surrounding the base, which is also necessary to create a proper vacuum for the dust collection. That and it helps keep projectiles to a minimum. Anyone have this router and do you experience the same thing? I DO have to say, I have a KREG benchtop routing table, and I use the Triton with it, and I couldn't be happier! It's a FANTASTIC router for my table, so if it was just used for that alone, I wouldn't even be talking about this right now. Obviously, when I need to do other work with the router on the guitar body (pickup cavities, etc.), I take it off the table and then use it for that - experiencing everything I've talked about above. It's fairly easy to remove and replace on the table, but it's still a process. Really, I'm considering getting a PALM/Compact router for a few of these reasons. I'm wondering how many of you use one for pickup/control cavities, etc. on your guitars? They seem to be a bit easier to use for things like that, and not as unweildy as my big plunge router (which is kind of heavy too). Wondering about type/brand/power needs - and also if dust collection is a consideration on these smaller routers? Thanks in advance!! PS, I'm considering the Dewalt, I'm a fan of their products, but Bosch is a close second!

Yes! I love this idea. I was also thinking of BAMBOO - but other than SKEWERS it's a bit hard to find what I had in mind. Maybe I'll grow it!! HAHA. Definitely going to try getting some Ebony and cutting strips - but it's good to have these as viable alternatives too. I think "JANKA" hardness is what we're looking for here? Honestly, for this build, I'm using some Bloodwood for my fretboard, and I have a piece that's not QUITE long enough for a fretboard - I may cut a couple strips and inlay that for this guitar I'm building.

All great ideas. Actually, I am getting some Aluminum Billets that I'm going to have to take 1/2" (12mm) off, (I'm making some Fretboard Slotting Templates with them for my Miter box), so maybe I'll try and use that!! I'll see what it looks/feels like when I get here. Like the idea for the tent materials too. They usually use those graphite rods of some sort to put inside and those might serve well in this purpose too. Yeah, those purpose made ones for sale - somebody's making a killing on 'em, and this is the first and last time from me!!! Cheers everyone!!

Man, that's a great idea. I will consider that for sure!!! I mean, you could also do a laminate neck with ebony too and that would look cool and do the same thing.

These things seem unreasonably expensive online, so as I do with most things, I try to find viable alternatives for just about everything. I'm a Chef by trade, and I do this a lot in the kitchen as well. It's just my nature. Has anyone used different materials to do this, with the same results? I'm just curious. Especially if there's something that we can reclaim to do this. I don't mind doing a little extra work to save money, and from keeping things out of the landfill. Looking forward to your replies!

Gotcha. I appreciate it. However, as I stated, I'm going to be using stamps/stencils to do the lettering. I want it to look hand done. Thank you!