spindlebox

1 hour ago, henrim said:

CR2032? I’d think they are widely available.

They are totally widely available

It's actually very very common still.  I do studio engineering too, and have been teching myself for over 20 years.  When I first got into some of the forums, like Cakewalk, etc., trying to navigate things - some of the descriptions relied SO heavily on experience, forethougt and knowledge.  

It also has happened to me trying to learn how to build pedals, with electronics.  That's probably the worst.  If you can't read a schem - WHOO BOY.  Hahaha.

Actually the guy at Stew Mac is going to make a recommendation about the whole thing to the technical team - He said he himself did not know about it.  A simple piece of paper explaining the features will be all that would be necessary.

Well, this was explained to me by Stew Mac. I wish they had explained this when I first contacted them about it.  I didn't see it on the instructions that came with it Either. it's not exactly intuitive.  To me anyway.

10 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

That combined with the fret measuring notch. Didn't realize the notch being of importance but obviously it's a feature.

That. For some reason the digital callipers seem to wander, with the jaws pushed together the reading is not always 0. Guess that's why they have the zero button.

If you watched the video I focused on making sure things were zeroed out.  Still inaccurate.

27 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

I don't have the stewmac callipers, just some regular digital ones from my local store. I use them for measuring the really precise things like bridge holes, tuner locations etc. So always zero the callipers every time I measure anything. I do also use them to measure crown height with the tail so the little cut-out stewmac do is unnecessary IMO.

Yeah, I've never really used that little Crown crown height measurement, I use that tail height measurement ALL the time. To me. It's more important to have all 3 measurements accurate and compatible.  It most certainly is within a couple hundredths on my cheap $20 Amazon caliper.  It's actually shocking to me that it is that far off.

1 hour ago, curtisa said:

I don't see the issue. The tool has been modified to include the ability to measure the crown height of the fret when it's installed in the fret board. To do that the tail needs to slide deeper into the body, which has the byproduct of offsetting the tail from the end by that extra depth, hence the couple of mm difference.

To get around it you just need to zero the tail before using it, which for absolute accuracy you'd typically do with any set of calipers anyway.

I don't think it's 'off' in any way. It's been deliberately modified to offer a feature that other calipers can't do as easily. It just requires a slight modification to your method of usage to continue using it in a more 'traditional' sense.

No way you and I are gonna agree on this

56 minutes ago, curtisa said:

I've personally never really paid much attention to the extension measurement at the base of a set of calipers, but I think you need to avoid using the movement of the jaws as a baseline reference for the movement of the tail. You're better off using it independently of the jaws altogether - moving the tail so that it butts up against a reference surface first, zeroing the caliper readout and then extending the tail to make your  measurement.

On all but the most expensive, precision calipers there is no guarantee that all three moving pieces have zeros that are equal. Use and zero each one independently of the others. I'd personally have more faith that the inner/outer pairs of jaws will be machined with equal zero points.

Edit: When you look at the 'custom fret crown notch' thingy Stewmac add to it, it's all the more important to not use the opening of the jaws as a baseline for the tail measurement (image credit: Stewmac):

 

The notch means that the tail needs more room to slide back into the body to allow for negative measurements. The upshot of this is that the tail will always extend further from the base than the jaws will open, and the tail will always give you a longer measurement unless you zero it first.

I don't know.  A measuring tool should be at least SIMILAR in measurements regardless of features, REGARDLESS of where you take the  measurement from - because that measurement needs to transfer to other cutting and measuring tools.  It should Not 2 MM off like this.  I use that tail measurement ALL the time.

2 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

To me that looks like the depth measuring "stick" of the StewMac is a couple of millimetres too short. No question about that. You should get the same readings when measuring the thickness of an object like you did with the case. The notch is irrelevant as the stick is meant for measuring the depth of tight holes.

I just can't believe it is that off.  This is literally the 3rd pair of Calipers that is exactly off like that.  Unfortunately, this has messed me up, because I expect that measurement to transfer to other measuring tools, at least within a few hundredths of a MM.

It's also hard to believe nobody else has complained about it and they don't know about it!

I have sent these back 2x already.  What am I doing wrong?  I have decided it MUST be me, although my cheap Amazon calipers don't do it.

I don't know what to do.  Please help!

Just now, henrim said:

Left should be the left side of the headstock. 

Checked their site and I think there has been a mistake and they should do the exchange.

Oh man, you're right!!!!  Yeah, I didn't see this, but I DEFINITELY have a set of RIGHT SIDE tuners when I ordered left.  
SO I'M NOT CRAZY.
I'll tell you what, bro.  My Imposter Syndrome was kicking in HARD on this one.  

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

53 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

If not, simply turn the template upside down and make a reverse headstock neck.

No, it's too late for all that.  I need to get the correct side.  My bad.  Ugh.  Thanks for the help.

Yeah, I was totally confused ordering this.  I thought LEFT, meant the left side of the headstock, NOT Left Handed guitar.

I messaged Guitar Fetish and am trying to see if I can make an exchange.  UGH.

Excuse my ignorance, but I am making a jazz bass and these are the tuners I got.  What am I doing wrong?  They obviously don't fit very well in the template and they Also seem to be upside down.  Are these left handed tuners instead of right handed tuners?  

Help!

4 hours ago, ShatnersBassoon said:

Like Biz has just suggested, I would have the control cavity covering that

Unfortunately, the control cavity is on the front as this is a Jazz bass.

I actually ended up planing it down, and adding a veneer to cover.  I tried to get the grain direction to match on the repair attempt, but messed up putting the plug in.  It was just a serious pain from the get go.  I'll never trust the stop on my drill press again!!!  I'll mark the depth with a piece of tape as well in future.  That was a big job to fix this, and the loss of another body blank to make it happen.

So my automatic stop wasn't tightened down hard enough. And I went too far.  I was able to patch it.

But now it is more obvious than I was hoping.  I definitely do not want to paint this, and Leave it natural wood. I am making two instruments and I want them to look similar. Any ideas on how to hide this?  I have enough wood that I could make a veneer, But i'm looking for other options.

thanks!

I did a search but didn't find anything, but did see quite a bit of conversations about it.  I wonder if anyone has ever compiled a list - checklist - of a guitar build from start to finish?  It would be helpful to have and I'm thinking of doing one myself.  I think it would be good to have neck and body, and then final assembly.

Any thoughts on this, or any resources?   I thought this might be helpful and/or fun.

Cheers!  Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

OMG, never mind.  As soon as I posted this I found THIS:

https://toolstoday.com/v-12200-47223-s.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=17660118906&gad_source=1

Maybe this will inspire/help somebody else!!

https://www.amanatool.com/47220-miniature-flush-trim-plunge-template-3-16-dia-x-1-2-x-1-8-inch-shank-carbide-tipped-router-bit-with-mini-3-16-dia-upper-ball-bearing.html..

Amana makes this one, but the cutting height is 1/2".  I wonder if you all know of a 1/8" shank ball bearing router bit with a cutting height of 1/4"?  Or do any of you have any suggestions?  I am going to be cutting trapezoid inlay and I got myself a nice template, but I still need to get a little bit in there and NOT screw up my template - hence the need for a ball bearing, or if there is one with a tiny cutter head and I can use the shank?

Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions!

I saw this on Stumpy Nubs, and immediately thought it would be great to apply to cutting scarf joints - for those that struggle for a more permanent solution with the tools they have.

Enjoy!

Thanks for all the advice you guys!!!  I'll let you know how it turns out. 

Yes!  That's perfect.  Thank you!!!!

33 minutes ago, henrim said:

It’s should be ok. When you do a scarf joint to a neck with angled headstock it fixes the issue with grain direction that a neck carved from one piece has. So, technically scarfed neck is a stronger neck. In your case there’s hardly any benefit, but on the other hand with a proper glue job there shouldn’t be any problem either.

Thank you my friend.  I thought so, but it's nice to hear another opinion.  I thought so.  I mean, it makes sense doesn't it?  I just think it would be a waste of an opportunity not to use that "sister" neck for bandmates' instruments.  They're stoked about it too.

Cheers!

OK, so this is going to sound weird, but hear me out!

I made a multi-laminate neck for an SG-style guitar, and have the rest of it left over that I figured I'd use for another (see attached photo).  Well, I want to use it for a Jazz-bass, and it's long enough for the neck and heel, but not quite long enough for the headstock.

I am thinking of attaching another piece of wood for the headstock, etc., as I'm going to do a veneer on the face anyway.  I REALLY want to use this as the neck, as my customers love the idea of me using the "same" neck for both of their instruments.

Only thing is - I'm doing a Fender-style headstock with no angle.

How would you approach this?  I know it's possible, because I mean, look at a scarf joint - joining 2 pieces of wood.  What would it matter if it was a completely different piece of wood?  The wood WILL be of the same exact type as the main part of the neck, however.

Anyway, I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has done it, and would love some ideas.

Thank you!

47 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

we should really have a subforum just related to "best smelling woods".  I have smelt rosewood, walnut, mahog, maple, purpleheart, oak, sapele... with walnut being a fav and cedar and oak being right up there.  A while back I was hogging out walnut via forstner bit and then collecting the shavings and putting them in a pot pouri dish with some oil... is a really nice smell.  might have to find a reason to do that again soon. 

Right? I honestly love the smell of all wood to be honest. To me that's one of the pleasures of woodworking. But there are definitely some favorites! Canary wood is really good too.