spindlebox

16 hours ago, henrim said:

I’m not sure I understand what the question is, but since you used conductive paint there is likely ground connection on the paint layer. Through potentiometer cases or whatever grounded part is in touch with it. Obviously if your hot wire touches the paint, it will get shorted.

The jack shorts out when it comes in contact with the inside of the control cavity (the hot tip).  When the sides of the jack touch the inside of the cavity.  I was just wondering if anyone here has experienced that.  It is a single coil bass, so I shielded it.  

So this has happened to me a couple of times, and I have just done a jury rig to get me through, but I thought I'd start a discussion here.

I went ahead and used the Stew Mac grounding paint on the inside of my control cavity (and this has happened to me with copper tape as well).

Today, I was wiring up my jack, and it kept shorting out when I would insert it in its' hole in the body.  I finally discovered that when the tab from the TIP would touch the inside of my control cavity, it would ground out.  I taped the tab up and was able to insert it with no problems.  To fix it, I went ahead and got some paint and painted the inside of the control cavity around where the jack goes in, and the problem is solved.

Has anyone experienced this, and if so, what did you do about it.  Is there some sort of wiring configuration that causes this somehow?  I haven't done anything out of the ordinary ground wire-wise with this bid to my knowledge.

Thanks!

Thank you.  It's a Tele apparently.   So I'll quote that and see what happens.  That's kind of what I was thinking.  I would think a fret, dressing, crowning/polish would be needed so there IS that.

I appreciate your advice!

So I was contacted by a guy that wants me to assemble his guitar for him.

It's been painted already and he has all the parts.  I have no idea what to quote him.  Any insight you can offer would be appreciated!!!  

On 2/18/2023 at 12:43 PM, Bizman62 said:

I wonder if you could make one partially by yourself by applying a single coil 5 string pickup into a self made horseshoe system?

Most likely, but the "self-made horseshoe system" is what is holding me up.  Maybe I could make it out of wood?

That's exactly it. I'm not sure exactly what I did but that was a major error so I need to start from scratch. Chalk it up to a learning experience.

Thank you for your assistance my friend.

It might, but upon closer inspection, the inlay isn't seated, and that's why that happened. So it would be best to just route it out.

Since the inlay is to both edges, it will be fairly easy to tight fit another triangle, cut slightly wider and slide in from the long end until it's snug! 

There is no binding channel - YET.  I am going to do binding, but the damage is more like 2.5-3mm from the edge.

I am almost leaning towards re-routing the inlay - perhaps carefully scoring DEEP as I can around it to make it easier to chip away.  Though it wouldn't hurt to start with a small patch.  I just think you'll really be able to see it.

So I am radiating my new front board and I have a piece of inlay that decided to chip.

Should I carefully route out the entire triangle or should I just fix that small spot?

As you see I have a piece large enough to replace that.

Advice appreciated! What would you do?

Hey all, I am not really liking these and so I want to get rid of them to finance other tools.  I'm asking $65+ shipping.  Hit me up if anyone is interested!  They've only been used 1x.

Hello to all!

I am crafting myself a Rick-inspired 5 string bass, but I am having trouble finding that really cool "Horseshoe" bridge pickup for a 5 STRING.  This is what I'm after:

Does anyone know where I could get one for 5, or if I could maybe make this work - IF I build my own bobbins to fit inside?  Maybe a bit of modification?  Just don't know if it would be wide enough.

Thanks in advance!

^{Thank you so much for your educated and thorough answers!  I hope this thread helps many people.  It certainly has helped me!!!}

^Cheers

Out of curiosity, Has anyone ever for instance done both To compare how it sounds? I am just wondering which is the most correct. Math is one thing but how does it sound?

I appreciate your hugely helpful and detailed reply!

I am building a 34" scale bass and am going to be building a fret slotting template, and am in the design phase of the entire bass.

I went to two different websites:  The Tundra Man site and StewMac.  I got two different results from their calculators.  This is obviously concerning and I'm wondering why?  Is one just simply wrong?  Here are my results:

So which one is right?  Also, I used this template - scaled 1:1 and the frets on this template are NO WHERE NEAR where either one of these calculators estimate.

I will say that I have measured the scale length on my drawing umpteen times, and my drawing is DEFINITELY spot on.  (NOTE, I am building a 5 string bass so that's why that photo of the headstock is there LOL.  My drawing has taken into account a wider neck.)

I obviously want to get this right.  Any ideas?  Your insights will be very much appreciated!!!

Thanks everyone for their input and great comments!!

I think based upon this info I have decided to try the following:

1) As I have a miter box that only allows fretboards, I'll cut the fretboard and then I'll add the frets directly after.

2) I'll at least - PARTIALLY - shape the neck, to see if any movement occurs.

3) I'll either finish shaping the neck or attach the fretboard - I can add locating pins where I am going to drill out for dot inlay.  I don't like doing it where the frets are anyway.  I'm not very good at that, and it seems to always leave some kind of mark.

If I'm going to do some sort of other special inlay, I'll have to do that BEFORE I install frets, but before I attach to the neck - and then I'll do something else for locating pins - SALT?

4) I'll finish shaping and profiling.

I've only built two guitars so far, but the first one I installed frets BEFORE I carved the neck, and it was way easier.  The second time around, I had to make a kind of "cradle" for the carved neck to support it the second time when I installed frets AFTER carving, and it still wasn't perfect, and wanted to bow away as pressure was applied. 

Are there any pros/cons to either way?  Which way do you do it and why?

Thanks in advance!

This is great!  Thank you!

I read somewhere that joint compound can be used as pore filler.  Anyone here use it?  Tips appreciated!  

Here's the screenshot

9 minutes ago, henrim said:

Can’t say for sure but when you grab the blade on the video it appears to me that it doesn’t have enough tension. How much is enough you may ask. And that is a good question. It depends on the blade in use. I tighten it up to a point where it feels solid and runs straight. Make a test cut and if it doesn’t cut straight I tension it a bit more. And repeat the procedure until I get a straight cut and everything sounds about right. You don’t want to over tighten obviously. If you do there is a change you snap the blade or ruin your bearings. 

I will give that a shot.  I actually resawed a piece right after that, and it did pretty good!!!  I would post the video here if I could.  Maybe I'll take a screenshot and post it.

Can one of you fine members give me some advice on this situation? Somebody here has to have a lot more experience than me lol. That's not saying much! Haha.

Bandsaw Grief

Posting this here in case it might help somebody figure this out.  Wasn't exactly the easiest thing to get my head around, but I did it!

I am making a jig to cut my scarf joint on my tablesaw, and watching a video on tablesaws and blades this morning I had a thought?

What would be the better blade to use on a scarf joint cut - a RIP, CROSCUT, or GENERAL PURPOSE?

What say you?

(this is not my photo, but similar to what I am doing)

I am building my own fretboard cutting templates and it would be so handy to have some sort of Caliper-like device to measure The scale from one point like the bridge or nut. I'm talking down to the 1000th.  It would make sense since most of the fret measuring calculators go down to that Detail.

Does anyone know of a ruler stick that is digital like that, that would make measuring between 2 points up to say a meter?

Certainly for now I can use the stewmac calculator because it has fret to fret measurement as well that I can double check with, but it would be so handy to have something I could fix to my drawing and just slide to the measurement I need and then mark.

3 minutes ago, curtisa said:

The fret position calculator in the Tundra Man website might be more up your alley. You specify inches or millimetres for the base scale length and then it spits out both measurement units in the resulting table:

Fretboard Calculator - The Tundra Man Workshop

Nice!!  Fret calculator for dummies like me.  Haha.

Talk about a 1st world problem....