RVA

Just another guitar build. I learn something every time, usually the hard way. At least I make my own necks now

What was the price? What type of rosewood? 

5 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Wow!

That headstock looks like it's done out of a single piece instead of what, four or five? And the back plate looks quite a lot like it's cut from the body - yet again an example of the importance of taking grain direction into account!

Good stuff takes its time to be finished. Well done!

That you very much!

I finally got this neck completed and paired with the guitar it was intended for. The guitar as a whole plays well.  Thank you all for the assistance in getting this done 

After much tedium, including lots of sanding, I put a coat of seal on this tonight

Each and every one is truly stunning. Impressive and inspiring work!

headplates coming along

My efforts continue. 14" radius sanded in, back shape complete.

Now for the headstock veneer. The idea was to have maple wings to match the maple veneers, but the tilt in the glue up came back to haunt me and tapered the wings unevenly. Casualty of first tries and a memory of my experience. Onward!

That looks amazing!

Great job! I really love  the coloring and design!

Very well done. I really enjoyed that. Thank you for sharing. 

11 minutes ago, curtisa said:

A couple of ways:

1  Cut as close as you can to the intended edges and finish off with some kind of straightedge used as a routing template with a flush-cut bit in the router table. Note, you'll get best results if your routing direction is always 'downhill' with the grain. This will necessitate flipping the fretboard upside down, having the template underneath for one of the two edges and having two flush-cut router bits - one with a bearing above and one with a bearing below the cutters.

2. Cut as close as you can to the intended edges and carefully finish off with a belt sander or some other long, flat surface with sandpaper attached. This is the least risky method of the two but is more laborious and entirely reliant on your eyes to determine when you've got the shape you're after.

Thank you again!

45 minutes ago, curtisa said:

Taper your fretboard first before gluing. You can then use the attached fretboard as a cutting/routing template for the neck so it can be flush cut to match the fretboard edges.

Any advice for tapering a thin, figured FB without tear out?

9 minutes ago, curtisa said:

Taper your fretboard first before gluing. You can then use the attached fretboard as a cutting/routing template for the neck so it can be flush cut to match the fretboard edges.

Thank you for the advice!

I have prepped my first FB. Used a fret slot miter box for the first time.  I learned a lot about what I should not do again mostly, but I think it is useable.

I will add some headstock wings and fill the excess I cut on my TR slot.  After that, is the next step the glue up?

Lovely tone and impressive build. Very nice playing also. Play it with joy and pride

Nut cavity,  not "but" cavity!

Almost forgot the TR but cavity enlargement

I made it too long, but I made it. I used the jig I made from the video above 

All scarfed up again. Time to take another shot at the TR channel 

1 hour ago, curtisa said:

Not sure what the issue is - hard to see? How does the gap look from either side?

You could always just overhang the headstock piece a fraction higher up the 'slope' of the neck piece to ensure you have complete coverage of the two faces where they meet, and then just plane/sand the slight overhang back down to match the neck surface,

In all likelihood, most builders would fine tune this kind of joint after gluing anyway to ensure the full length of the neck, including the headstock scarf section, was perfectly flat and level before adding the fretboard. At the very least you'll probably have some glue squeeze-out along the join that would still need cleaning up before proceeding any further.

Thank you. That is very helpful.  It will be slight, I was going to go with a slight dip, but an overhang would be less work. Much appreciated!

Mates, 

Can I glue this up wit this small lip/dip and sand it after, or is there a better way to deal with it beforehand? The differential arises because the cut across was not perfectly even and the thickness of the edge of the headstock piece

Thanks for any advice

7 minutes ago, JGTay said:

Thanks RVA.

It is very slow oiling, the waiting between coats is a bit frustrating as I can't use my workshop for anything else, but I do like the finish it produces.

I didn't get as much time as I had hoped today, managed to get all the wiring done, but the other bits will have to wait until tomorrow. 

For my last Tru-Oil finish, I did about 70 coats at about 3 coats a day, at least 4 hours apart. I needed the extra thickness to buff to a high gloss. You seem to have gotten a very high gloss on yours. 

That looks amazing. Applying an oil finish is slow, but it is certainly more relaxing than spraying 

Swung a leg back over the horse today. The plan is rosewood neck with a flame maple FB made from the failed first attempt.

I calibrated my planer and jointer, and tested my scarf cutting jig to see if I could get consistent straight cuts. The blank is square and flat.  Hopefully a better start will make for a smoother ride