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moojiefulagin

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Everything posted by moojiefulagin

  1. moojiefulagin
    Yeah, but where do you find the perfectly fine sawdust? It actually probably takes the same amount of time- it takes about as long to get out the dremel as it does the rest! Anyway, youre welcome. Im not a guitar building expert yet, so i try to contribute what i can!
  2. moojiefulagin
    Hey! I did something like that: it was purely decorative. It was about a foot long, but I made the body out of 1/4 inch wood, so it just hangs on the wall. Its like two dimensional, except not... if you know what I mean. Its very artistic- i made an intricately carved bridge, fake pickups.. all the good stuff, out of different exotic woods. And i used wire to look like frets, and nail heads as polepieces. It turned out pretty cool and it cost me approximately... nothing! Sorry i cant post pics, I dont have anywhere to host them. Good luck!
  3. moojiefulagin
    Hi! Thought I should share this with you guys.. might come in handy. Maybe im the only one, but I always had a tough time making usable woodfiller. It would always come out of the cracks when I tried to rub it in. Heres something I just discovered. It saved a lot of time and produced great results: fill the crevice with glue. Then hold a block of the wood you want to make filler dust out of over the crack. Using a dremel with a high-grit sanding cylinder attachment, sand the wood at high speed as close as possible to the glue-filled crack. The sawdust will be stick to the wet glue. This will produce VERY fine sawdust that can be easily pressed further into the crevice if necessary. The result- a perfectly filled unnoticeable repair. I found this out when I got some chipping when routing my binding channel. Hope this helps someone!
  4. moojiefulagin
    Thanks, what I was really looking for is some way to get it exact using a flush trim bit or something- you know without the guesswork. It seems impossible, but then again a lot of the things I get answers for here seme impossible too!
  5. moojiefulagin
    I think syxxstring might have meant 39.99. that one's here: Lathe
  6. moojiefulagin
    Hi everyone! Has anyone ever found a way to copy an inside curve to an outside curve: what I mean is to take a shape, an oval for example, and using a template rout out the interior of the oval in a piece of wood. Then somehow use the ?same template? and precisely rout out an oval shaped piece of wood to fit perfectly into the space? What I would like would be a way to rout out an electronics compartment with a template & flush trim bit, and then make a cover that fits perfectly. Is there a way to do this other than freehanding the cover piece with guess and check? I hope I explained this well enough! Thanks a lot!
  7. moojiefulagin
    Well if it is a Gretsch then it's probably pretty valuable, but it looks WAY more like a knockoff. I would also doubt that Gretch has ever used bolt on necks
  8. moojiefulagin
    Hey, I wouldn't worry about it too much, unless the buzzing is REALLY bad. Sometimes you have to compensate occasional buzzing for low action. I own a Gretch White Falcon with exceptionally low action that buzzes only on the first fret, but personally I think that a faint buzz adds nice character and twang to bassier notes. To some that might sound stupid, but as a recreational player I prefer low action over buzz-less strings!
  9. moojiefulagin
    As long as your router has handles and a base that would let you lay it flat upsidedown on a surface, you should be fine. In my experience, a smaller plunge router works well for some specific tasks, but you can't go wrong with a "big" router.
  10. moojiefulagin
    OK, that sounds good. Ill probably make some sort of simple pedal with an in and out jack for easy hookup and removal. So this goes in between the speakers and the amp? Thanks a lot!
  11. moojiefulagin
    OMG, that's beautiful. Do you need to add some sort of insulation to the cab, or is it just wood and speakers?
  12. moojiefulagin
    Great, so what wattage one would I buy if my amp is 60 watts? I think they only sell 50 and 100. Also, how do I know what ohm value one to buy? Thank you very much!
  13. moojiefulagin
    How does it work?
  14. moojiefulagin
    Ooooo, that's what those are! Im not sure how it sounds, i haven't hooked it up yet! Thanks
  15. moojiefulagin
    Thanks, actually Im just looking for a way for the amp to exist at lower volumes at all! Im not worried about cranked tubes. I have one of those horrible neighbors who has nothing better to do than screw up other people. She threatened to call the police when I played my twin reverb on 2.5, and remember, sound doesn't even come out until you get up to 2. I want to be able to use the amp distortion at a lower volume, preferably without adjusting the guitar's volume knob. Could I wire something in between the amp and the speaker? Some sort of volume pot thing? Thanks!
  16. moojiefulagin
    Hi! Does anyone know how to wire up a simple half-power switch for a tube amp? My particular amp is a Fender Deville, and it doesn't have an effects loop. Thanks a lot!
  17. moojiefulagin
    Sounds good. Thanks guys!
  18. moojiefulagin
    Hey everyone! I was wondering what standard procedure is for nitro spray on a glue on neck- Do you glue the neck and body together before finishing, or do you finish them separately? Thanks a bunch!
  19. moojiefulagin
    Wait, thats not it Ok, ready for anwers. Im a little crazy today!
  20. moojiefulagin
    Ooops! found the post! Sorry-
  21. moojiefulagin
    Hi! I couldn't find an answer in the forum, but Im sure this must be a cross-post- if, so sorry! I was wondering how P90 pickups are usually installed mine have no adjustment screw holes. Do you just rout to desired depth and wedge them in there or something thanks!
  22. moojiefulagin
    Yes, its PNP, but I did wire it correctly. My question was about ruining parts by short circuiting. Could I have damaged any components by making random connections with my test leads when the entire circuit was hooked up and powered and my guitar was plugged in? Thanks!
  23. moojiefulagin
    HI! I completed the test circuit for the Rangemaster, and it worked! I decided it was a little messy, so I rebuilt it, and it stopped working. I tried bypassing some of the components with test leads while the battery was hooked up, but this didn't work. So I built it again, and the guitar made a faint sound when the pot was fully clockwise, and no sound when it was fully counterclockwise. There was also a soft hiss (not the usual ground-problem hiss) when I rotated the pot. My question is this: When I was using the test leads to connect different components directly, could I have caused too much battery power to be supplied directly to one of my components, and ruined the part? Are germanium transistors or some caps notorious for being power-sensitive? Thanks a lot!
  24. moojiefulagin
    That was a wonderfully definite answer. You really are an expert. Thanks!
  25. moojiefulagin
    Hi! Ive started work on my rangemaster copy that I will build into a guitar as an active circuit. This is the schematic Im using: Im wondering how the stereo input is supposed to work. Are you supposed to use a stereo cord or something? Does a guitar need some sort of stereo output to work? Would a regular mono cord work? Also, will a 9-volt battery work as the power supply? Thanks a lot!
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