peachtree

Thank you! Awesome, that's exactly what I was thinking. Your work is beautiful, by the way!

Okay I've had a bit of a play on my plan in AI and I think this is what I'm looking at: So I'll go full-width tenon, extend the length of the tenon to go as far into the neck pickup pocket as I can, remove the neck heel and curve the right angle at the cutaway neck area intersection. Should be fun!

Ha the neck Ha this was the exact argument I made to myself - if the scarf joint at the headstock can handle it it should be okay at the neck joint - just wasn't sure if I was missing anything. I think I'm gonna try and replicate the neck joint on that Macon almost exactly - so a wide neck tenon, with the treble side of the neck exposed and the cutaway blended in to meet, and the right-angled neck joint where the LP cutaway usually begins cut so it curves around instead. I think this will look awesome and solve a bunch of my problems! Fingers crossed...

Hey all, I'm in the middle of a LP-style single-cut build. I'm going to be using a traditional LP-style tenon, not because I need or want it to be vintage-authentic or anything, I think I'd just be left with too little material in the body on the cutaway side of the neck if I tried to go full width. My question is this - I'm thinking about incorporating a comfort carve on the neck heel of my joint, similar to what PJ Eggle does on their Macons. (my body is just the standard Les Paul shape). My question is - would there be any structural issues with this? My body thickness at the neck joint is 47mm - I'm thinking I could carve away 1cm, then have 1cm of material on the back - which would mean a 27mm thick neck tenon (this minimum thickness is only right at the edge too, since the bottom of the mortise will be parallel to the neck angle). Does this sound okay (follow-up - if it is okay, can I afford to lose any more material from the 27mm)?

Thanks all for your comments! All makes sense - I've finished my planing and have something I'm decently happy with The top is camphor laurel - my bright idea was to try and use all Australian woods for this build - so camphor for the top and Tassie blackwood for the neck and body.

Another gratuitous progress pic...

Hello! I have a pretty simple question about pickup plane/neck angle, and how they fit together. I've got my neck angle cut (so that if I project it, it intersects the bridge where I want it to). I've cut the pickup plane so that it starts juuuust in front of where the fretboard will end, and finishes just in front of the bridge. My question is this - I've got kind of 5mm-ish between the end of the pickup plane and the end of the fretboard (depending on where I decide I want my fretboard to end) - I guess this gives me a bit of room to sand the transition between the pickup angle and the rest of the body smooth. Is this right, or should I move the pickup plane very slightly back, or am I waaaaaay overthinking this (I suspect it's this)?! I feel like as long as I don't sand into the neck plane where my fretboard will eventually be glued then I'm probably good? Hopefully everything is clear from the image - I had a thick pencil area over the centreline so I could see where my cutting started/ended. TIA!

Thanks everyone for the replies! I've stumped up the courage and below is what I have so far - I don't know if it's super clear from the pic but the fretboard laid across the neck plane basically comes in just above the bridge when it's sitting on the body (which is a clumsy way of saying a straight edge across the top of the fretboard extended over the bridge clears the bridge by 6mm, if it's just sitting on the body. I think this is usable but probs not ideal - especially after frets/action etc my bridge is probs going to be sitting a little too high. I'll decrease the angle a bit I guess. Do you guys agree?

Hello everyone! I'm partway through the process of building a single cut and am ready to cut the neck angle into the body (/have already started). I *think* I understand conceptually what I'm trying to do, but I'm a bit confused about some of the advice I read/watch. In particular, I was watching this great video by Crimson Guitars: Ben seems to be laying a straight edge along the neck plane, compensating for the fretboard and width of a fret, and lining this up with the top of the bridge (with a couple of mm to give some room for adjustment). My question is - shouldn't we be allowing in room for the action also? That is, I want to lay a straight edge flat on the neck angle, and it should hit the plane that's perpendicular to the bridge at (the height of the bridge + compensation - (width of fretboard + width of fret + action)? The setup I have is below (apologies for my crappy drawing). I don't know if it's obvious but just in case it's not, the drawing is supposed to be a cross section down the centreline of my body, with a straight edge (the notched rectangle) along the top. I forgot to draw it in but there's ~3mm or so between the bridge and the straight edge. I've started cutting my angle in at 4.5 degrees, which I think is wrong, given the below, but I've got 6mm of top still left to cut away before I hit my binding. I have: 14mm bridge 6mm fretboard 1.5mm-ish fret wire Given this, I think I should be aiming for my neck plane to intersect my bridge plane at 14 (bridge) + 2mm (wiggle room) - 6mm (fretboard) - 1.5mm (fret wire) - 2mm (action) = 6.5mm above the body. Do I have this wrong? Any other opinions very much appreciated