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oz tradie

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Posts posted by oz tradie

  1. How many times are you guys going to beat this horse? Its dead... bury it

    Led, the last post regarding this was a month ago...it was buried until you dug it back up. :D

    Anyway, moving on..............

    RG is correct regarding the neck angle considerations, Zeb. You'll require a neck angle of sorts.

    If it wasn't for the fact you're using a Bigsby, I would have suggested sinking your T.O.M. into the body.

    Draw out your neck to body to bridge join on paper to a 1:1 scale and that should give you the good oil.

    Either way you'll need to angle either your neck tenon or body mortice, otherwise you'll have a whoppingly high action.

    Cheers, Stu

  2. The greenish hue on the surface is predominantly caused by moisture in contact with the surface.

    The hue builds over time, the more contact you have.

    No biggie though, as it's only on the surface and sandable and scrapes off.

    A similar reaction can be found with Tasmanian oak, where the water or moisture will discolour the timber to varying degrees of black. Also fixable by applying oxalic acid to leach out the stains.

    Cheers, Stu

  3. Aussie timbers neck-through carvetop

    Queensland walnut body and neck (chambered body)

    Tasmanian oak 16mm dual-carve top

    25" scale ebony bound f/board with paua dots

    Seymour duncan H/B's sh-2 & sh-4

    T.O.M. bridge and string through ferrules recessed into back

    many dyed maple laminations

    Finished in nitro with a faux binding and a gentle top burst.

    Click here for the Build Slideshow

    done10.jpg

    done11.jpg

    done1.jpg

    backlams.jpg

    full back shot

    cheers, Stu :D

  4. Thanks for the comments fellas. Much appreciated. :D

    The dual-carve top was a really fun carve to do. I'll probably incorporate a few more of these on the right projects in the near future too.

    The neck angle on this one was somewhere around 2.5 degrees, after drawing it out and getting my tom height lowered down as low as I dare get it without recessing the bridge. It's worked out spot on to my drawings to the

    point of it bottoming out on the tom bushings at an unplayably low action, with the posts raised just a tad for the optimum buzz free action and still keeping it fast and low.

    This one is still up for grabs and no doubt will take someone's fancy .

    More pics later, photobucket is down at present.

    cheers lads, Stu

  5. That is magnificent. Very well done.

    I love the look of all the timber, I didn't realise tassie oak could have such a nice figure.

    Do you have more pictures of the top carve?

    Also, where do you get nitro in australia?

    Thanks Stewey. Lots of pics to put up, including build progress shots of the chambering and the dual-carve top.

    I used pre-cat nitro made by Wattyl, called stylwood 95% gloss.

    Any dedicated paint shop other than Bunnings should carry it or something similar.

    Keep the questions rolling and I'll do the same with the pics. :D

    more pics

    done4.jpg

    cheers, Stu

  6. This one's just left the workbench last week.

    Neck through construction with 25" scale neck

    Chambered body .

    Queensland walnut neck and wings with maple accenting

    Tasmanian oak figured 16mm dual-carve top.

    Bound 24 fret ebony fingerboard with paua dots.

    Tune-o-matic and string through body ferrules.

    Seymour Duncans JB bridge and Jazz neck.

    and a subtle nitro burst to the top. :D

    Queensland walnut back

    done10.jpg

    cheers, Stu

  7. I've been watching your build with much interest and I must say congratulations on

    the outcome. Very nice indeed and yes, a bit of a twist at that.

    Gotta love that little twist on an original :D

    Now it's finished, that top really does scream out ' tassie myrtle'.

    HAMMERED, I got a Floyd original from Warmoth with black tuners and chrome finish.

    Well done Stewey :D

    cheers, Stu

  8. Anyone know how to do the Ibanez style jack input like on this guitar th_ibanez.jpg ? Regards,

    Brian.

    Howdy Brian.

    Drill press is the go . clamp your guitar body to the drill press table and set it to the angle required for your hole.

    (sounds easy when you say it quickly)

    I'd tend to use a long shanked forstner bit with this one, although experimentation with a spade bit is worth trying too.

    cheers, Stu

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