oz tradie

Be creative.

Be imaginitive.

But, be yourself.

Looks like you've got a silicon reaction there.

Take it back to a flat surface, again. (that sucks)

Pretty much start over. But this time when you're laying on the first few coats,

apply what is called a 'dust coat'. If you have no contamination of your lines,

and you've applied and wiped off a degreaser just prior to tack ragging it, (b 4 spraying)

you should be relatively trouble free.

When I was working in a Panel shop (17 years of it, ouch) we had many minor silicon problems.

Some were as stupid as wiping things down with a rag contaminated with silicon polish

or armor-all. Or touching something similar then touching the item ready to be sprayed.

Worst case scenario was the air lines seeping in oil from the compressor.

Now, getting back to the dust coat.

The reason for the dust coats at the beginning are to basically seal off the item from anything

underneath which can re-contaminate.

A dust coat will seal and dry the item off quicker with less solvent biting into the bottom coat.

Doing the wet coats to begin with mean there are obviously a thicker coat of paint, with more wet thinners

incapsulated within, which in turn has a greater chance of biting in and causing you to tear your hair out later.

I hope this helps.

So do you want to spill the beans a bit more on this one ?

I want to know it all, starting with the wood used.

It definitely is great !!

I'n not the biggest tele fan, but that is enough to

get me excited.

Love the flame top, too

Opeth,Opeth, Opeth

Katatonia

Anathema

The older Iron Maiden

And Bruce Dickinson's solo stuff

I guess you only really get an understanding for it by immersing yourself in the

testing yourself.

Most of it goes over my head

I know of a Luthier who has put up on his website some of his collated

data concerning various types of wood and the relation of tone and density.

In fact he's got a whole lot of other scientific and mathematical equations on stuff.

NOYCEGUITARS.COM/TECHNOTES

have a look at 'wood data' especially.

( I would have linked this , but I am just getting over technophobia )

As far as I know , the more transparent the finish the less U.V. blocked out.

I know with Autimotive tint there are layers at differing angles within the tint film to reduce glare and U.V.

Although that works great, I am not aware of anything which does the same job in a clear finish.

Anybody else out there able to help on this one ?

I'm a fan of the neck-thru style on it

It'd be great to see them pump out a few in translucent finishes too, instead of just

going for the solids. Or may be it's time to remove the digit and make my own

I can recommend Makita. 76 mm wide

i've used it for years and given it alot of hard use through my

daytime job as a carpenter.

I don't know whether they'll mount to a bench but I'll definately have a look and figure it out

if it's possible.

Other than that I'd say a festool.

So this theory about stop bar height not interfering intonation, I'm guessing, (no, I'm asking )

would also apply to neck-thru string ferrule placement ?

ie. the string ferrules can be staggered or parrallel to the TOM bridge

and that will only affect string 'feel', not intonation ?

Top masking out

What was the secret to the crisp lines ?

It's gonna be your guitar, right ?

What's your preference ?

You know, why not build both, just pick one to build first. (more guitars the better)

Okay......... try Jemsite.com

reference section has a list of other forums too. definately worth a gawk at.

'Guitar of the month' is a good place to look too, as there is most usually a link to

the winner's website which then opens up a cavernous door to such worldly delights

(again, that's on the home page)

If that doesn't do it for you click on 'LINKS' and see what comes up.

Mate It's all there and more, you just have to use some investigative nouse.

Remember to buy Hitchcocks book too as Mattia mentioned in a previous thread.

I've got it and still go back to it as a quick reference guide.

Cheers,

Stu

allrighty......

Go to the top left of the screen and click on 'Project Guitar Home Page'

That gets it to.... you guessed it. Da home page

Now you should see a section with several different categories including

a tutorial section .

Stew-Mac has a good tutorial on binding.

The Dean Hardtail

Ormsby 'vine' and metal vortex axes

Gibson explorers and anything that half resembles a flying V

Maton mastersound 2000dlx (I'm biased cos I got one and you gotta buy local !!)

The perfect companion for a cold winter's night.

Should get a couple of minutes worth of heat out of it.

Good to hear you're gonna make the plunge into the dark depths.

If I can give any advice it would be to buy the books ,

spend the time looking at the archives and tutorials in PG and

just read til you're brains a'poppin'.

Heaps of valuable information in here for all types of guitar builds.

Alot of the questions I wondered about were in the archives and whats more,

all I had to do was hit 'search'.

Now, if you'll pardon me, I have some more fact gathering to attend to .

Good Luck !

Does your system allow mounting of any brand,size ,type of router ?

Different mounting plates required ?

I'm using a Makita 3612 currently.

I can hear a sizzling sound.........oops, I think I've just fried my brain

Whenever I feel tiredness, or impatience creeping in, it's a good sign

to walk away and come back to the task when I'm concentrating properly.

Focus....focus.....focus

I learnt patience the hard way.(still with the occasional re-lapse)

Mate, that's looking great.

Yep, I reckon oil or translucent for the body too.

I can never understand why people paint guitars in solids or metallics when

most of the time underneath the paint, you've got beautiful timbers worth seeing.

Mind you, solids & mets. hide mistakes like nothing else.