rsguitar

Very nice looking work, very clean.

Mike

Still not an enormous fan of the body shape, but the work is top notch, and the woods are lovely. What was your weapon of choice for the carve?

My teeth I was realy hungry.....LOL

No I used a router on the body sides before the glue up and then finished off the rest by hand with a chisel and sandpaper, and a lot of time.

Mike

Here is one more pic.

Mike

spray natural lacquer and if its not what you like you can always spray a burst over the natrural.

I would go with the natural if it was me.

I like to see the different wood that you have used love the strips going through the neck.

Yes that was the plan to spray it with 4-5 coats then the burst to see how i liked it.

Thanks for the kind words...

Mike

This is the question I have had in my head since I did the carv on this thing. To either do a Cherry burst over vintage amber, or to do it natural. So I thought I would throw out this question to you guys to see what your take on this was.......

Here is the guitar: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=25336&hl=

All comments welcome, so have at it!!!!!!!!

Mike

thats so hot i want its babies!

Man that was a great comment I started to LOL when I read it.

Thanks

Mike

Here is another pic.

Mike

Well here is the third neckthrough I have been working on. This one is for myself, and I can't wait until this one is done!!!!! So here are the specs.

Neck

5 piece with curly maple and cherry, with rosewood stipes

surrounding the cherry.

Hot Rod truss rod

carbon rods along truss

curly maple cap on headstock with walnut stipe under it

Body

Cherry body with walnut stipe under quilted maple top

a piece of walnut seporates the neck from the body sides

Hardware

Sperzel tunners in satin chrome

The T-Bridge from LR Baggsin chrome

chrome schaler strap locks

chrome knobs and switch

Electronics

Bridge pickup: JB seymore duncan

Neck picup: Hot Rails seymore duncan

three way selector switch

25 1/2" Scale

Fretboard will be ebony bound with curly maple like the padauk neckthrough

with custom inlay of some sort?

Enjoy

Mike

.

That is amazingly clean work, I love it. Don't know about the grammar but that pretty much says it all.

Spelling and grammer aren't my strong suit, but give me some wood to butcher and look out baby!

Mike

I really like the violin-esque fretboard overhang on the paduak neckthrough. Although, I think it'd look even cooler on a bass.

I agree it would look cool on a Bass.....

Mike

You have been a very busy boy haven't you!

Very cool nice original piece......

Mike

Thanks for all the great coments on the guitar!!!!!!!!!!

Mike

just a quick question, but how do you shape the heel on your Neckthroughs?

All by hand my friend all by hand.( rasps, and files, sandpaper all the fun tools HaHa. )

Mike

Padauk Neckthrough Specs:

curly maple and padauk neck

mohogany body with curly maple stipe

and pasauk cap

padauk cap on headstock

ebony fingerboard bound with

curly maple and ebony, and padauk

25 1/2" scale

12" radious neck

jb seymore duncan pickup with chrome pickup ring

volume /tone with push/pull tap

string through body

TOM bridge

sperzel satin chrome tunners

carbon rods in neck, and two way hot rod truss

I will post some more pics later on.......

Mike

Looking good! Though remember Setch's advice from the last thread - bind the end of the fretboard the same way as you have the sides. Having heard that suggested, I keep picturing the board like that, and I think it would look a lot better.

Yes I remember his suggestion on binding the end of the fingerboard, and I knew somone would say something about it. But that is not the look I was going for on this guitar. If you notice the way the fingerboard sticks out past where the neck suports it. I was going for a violin vibe for the look. Maybe on my carved top neckthrough I will do the binding on the end......

The finsh will be natural, there is no way I would cover up this great wood.......

Thanks for all the great feedback guys!!!!!!!!!

Mike

Padauk Neckthrough Specs:

5 piece curly maple and padauk neck-thru

matching padauk cap on headstock

ebony fingerboard bound with

curly maple, ebony, and padauk

13 degree headstock angle

25 1/2" scale fingerboard

12" radius neck

Abalone block inlay with RSG logo inlay at 12th fret

Abalone side dot markers

Jumbo frets

Bone nut

Sperzel standard tuners/ Satin Chrome

Dual action truss rod

Carbon fiber reinforcing rods

Mahogany body sides

Padauk cap with curly mpl. stripe

JB Seymour Duncan in the bridge/with chrome PU ring

STK-S2 Seymour Duncan in the neck

Gotoh Tune-o-matic Bridge/ Chrome

String through body design/ Chrome

Shielded electronics cavity

1 Volume, 1 Tone, and Chrome Metal 'dome' knob

Three way selector switch/ Chrome

9-46 strings

I will post some more pics later on.......

Mike

Just to let you know Mike, I have four projects in progress right now. I took a different slant on your method of binding the edges of the fretboard with wood, and I've made a laminated fingerboard with 1cm purpleheart and 2mm strips of flamed maple which I'm dyeing black/purple. Will most probably finish the edges of the board with more maple. This is the Les Paul I'm building for my wife (LR Baggs TOM, chambered to hell and back).

I drafted this up in TurboCAD last week.

This is where I am up to on my other Les Paul build....binding is becoming seriously addictive, and making it can be stressful but rewarding!!

Looks good man cain't wait to see it finished.........nice work!!!!

Mike

Hi guys, here is a little taste of the next neckthrough i'm working on............I will start a new thred for it when I have time to put the pics in.......

This has the same body design as the one I made for Richie Sambora..

Mike

if it is a sandable primer then I would just sand down the rough area( with 320 grit sandpaper ), and then continue with more primer coats.

Mike

very nice inlay, and if this is your first I can't wait to see the second andthird and so on............

Great job!!!!!!!

Mike

Sorry no updated pictures yet still nothing form J.A.Allen who is signed with Steve Vai's label.

I will have a new padauk neckthrough to post soon.

Mike

Sorry Mike, I haven't gotten around to it yet. I need to saw some wood down to make a few neck blanks, plus my purpleheart is in big old 3' x 4' planks at the moment so I need to work out how I'm cutting it down before nibbling away small bits. My current project is a set neck Explorer to be finished in white, so I'm only working with mahogany and maple right now. I think I'll save the purpleheart for my Dinky.

Sound good do you have any pics of your work in progress?

have a good one and I'll talk to you later.

Mike

Very nice job looks great. Can't wait to see the next one, keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!

Mike

-I'm planning to use the tang nippers/end cutters tag team. Cost me $20 to get set up.

Where do you get tang nippers/end cutters together for $20? I know you can use metal nippers ground flat for end cutters, but how do you get a cheap tang nipper? I've been looking at the stewmac ones or e-bay fret shop ones but can't justify the price just yet.

Cheers,

Brian.

The stew mac tang nippers by the way work great...........

Mike

Drill press is my vote.

Mike

Once I have made the final shpe of the neck, and before I radious the fretboard is when I do the binding.

I use the stew mac router base and my dremel, but you can use a regular router as well. I determine how thick I want my binding to be, and then route out the required spce needed. To create th actual binding I glue up the wood that will be the binding, and in this case purpleheart and curly maple. The curly maple piece is 1/4"x3/4" and the purpleheart is 3/4"x3/4". After the glue is dry I square up th piece and the run it through my planer to get the curly maple to thickness I want. Then I cut it in half on the table saw, and glue it in place. Take care to mask off all areas you don't want glu to get on. Also make sure to leave yourself enough room to clean out the clue that will get into the fret kerf. This is very important to do, because trying to do this afterwards is not at all fun not to mention super time consuming. I learned this the hard way!!!!!!!

well this is how I do my bindings if you have any more questions on the subject feel free to send me a mesage.

Well, rather than me learn through spoon-feeding, let's give it a whirl eh?

I'll be sure to let you know how much I mess* up.

*f, etc.

Prostheta how goes the binding????????

Like to see some pics if you have any.

Mike

MP63 Hey I have the same jointer and I love it. I got the floor model and saved like $50 because they couldn't find one in a box.....