Rob02382

Thanks to all. happy 4th

This has probably been answered before, but I can't find it. On many guitars with tune-o-matic style bridges, I've noticed that the bridge itself is further away from the nut on the bass side. I assumed that if most bridges (and tremolos for that matter) are adjustable for intonation, then having the bridge parallel to the nut would be appropriate and give equal adjustment of intonation to all strings, and the guitar should play in tune and be properly intonated. I'm thinking of building a 25.5" scale, seven string guitar with a set neck & fixed bridge, probably a Hipshot Contour. Am I going to have issues if I plan to put the bridge exactly parallel to the nut, with the saddles at the center of their adjustment range? Maybe that's two questions, but I'm sure there's enough gray matter here to accommodate. Thanks guys - Rob

HI, I'm modifying my RG body to look like a Jem. I've done the output jack, almost finished the Monkey Grip and aren't too worried about the tremolo claw, I'm also adding a maple veneer top & pearloid pickguard. One mod I'd like to do is a pearloid binding. I know that Stew Mac sells router bits and that Warmoth sells a pearloid binding. I have two concerns; First, the router bits are sold in .060, .070, .080 etc depths, all with .012 extra cutting depth to accomodate glue thickness, and swelling of binding/wood. The Binding itself is .080 thick. If the bits will actually cut .082 and .092, respectively, it would seem that I would end up with far too shallow or far too deep a rout for this to work-Any thoughts? Secondly (and this may make the first question irrelevant), I could rout the entire top with my router until I get to the bevel at the upper rear of the body. Obviously the angle will make using the router a no-go. Do I have to cut the entire corner by hand? Thanks in advance for the help Guys-Rob