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monkyboy777

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Posts posted by monkyboy777

  1. What I meant was that in your diagram it appears that the middle strings may not clear each other on there way to the tuner posts.

    This is what I was basing that layout on. I'm sure that when I get to that point it may require a little tweaking. If I am miscalculating the layout, please let me know the right way to do it.

    stringspace.jpg

  2. My roommate got a cheap digital camera (which means I get to use a cheap digital camera!) for Christmas so I am now able to post some images of works in progress.

    The first one is a 7 string with a padauk body, maple/padauk/maple neck with cocobolo fretboard and Hot Rod truss rod. Headstock is configured with 4 left and 3 right. The neck pocket is kind of messy and I routed too deep. I could shim an angle onto it, just have'nt done so yet. Originally I was going to use the Hipshot 7 string fixed bridge on this one, but decided to hold off until I can figure out the neck route problem. Also, padauk is messy! Contaminated the whole house with a fine red dust, even with some dust collection and being careful not to spread it everyehere. I think I understand why people don't use this often. It is pretty, so I'll finish it sometime.

    p7front.jpgp7back.jpg

    The second one is mahogany with figured bubinga top. I used the Petrucci layout from the downloads section and sent it to Kinkos for plotting out full scale. Then I used plexiglass to trace the template and then cut it out, sanded it smooth, then used it as a router template. Worked really well. The picture does not do the figure justice.

    The neck is bubinga/maple/figured bubinga/maple/bubinga with a scarf joint. The headstock area is from the same stock as the top. Absolutely beautiful stuff. Headstock is configured the same: 4 left and 3 right. I'm waiting on the truss rod and various other items from Stew Mac (probably get here tomorrow, I'm off until Wednesday so that gives me alot of time to mess it up!). Gonna be a seven string, of course, with the Hipshot 7 string fixed bridge. I have a Dimarzio Blaze to use as a template, gonna get the Tone Zone and PAF for it with 3 way switching in the next couple of weeks. My Ibanez 2027 is set up with the same pickups and switching (sometimes called Petrucci switching) and it rocks.

    b7.jpg

    Not the greatest stuff in the world, but man is it fun!!!!!

  3. The Ryobi spindle sander is perfect for guitar bodies, neck shaping, etc.

    The 9" Delta Bandsaw.....got one and kinda wish that I had done more research. Cutting bodies and the profiles for necks can be a little tricky with the limited horsepower, especially with laminated necks. I've discovered that maybe a 12" (with more horsepower of course) bandsaw may be more appropriate for cutting out bodies...for what it is worth.

  4. jimmyb,

    Downloaded the file and measured the scale length from nut to saddle, which comes to 647.7 mm (25 1/2 inch scale length). I was unsure what you meant about point to point...measure from nut to saddle and see if it comes up to the 647.7 mm (or 25 1/2 inches, whichever you prefer). Everything within the drawing appears to be in proportion to each other, at least to my eye.

    Hope this helps......good luck.

  5. Snork:

    http://www.kinkos.com/kfp/kfp_download.php

    I used this software to send templates to Kinkos. You can use something like AutoCAD Lt to open the file, and then use the Kinko's File Prep tool as a 'virtual' plotter. When you install the Kinkos software, it installs a 'printer' driver that AutoCAD Lt (or whatever software you are using to view the file) can use. When I did this I had to use the A0 size of paper. It sends the file via internet to a local Kinkos and prints it out. When you send the file, it opens a web browser so you can fill out contact info, choose the nearest store, etc. I've used it a few times and it has been a big help. It cost me about $10 for a full size template. The last time that I used it I just printed out a body and headstock template for about $5.

    From there I lay a piece of 1/8 plexiglass, draw the centerlines and other reference points, then draw the shape, cut it out, and sand the edges smooth. Pretty accurate.

    Anyway, it works well. Good luck.

  6. tsl602000,

    Thanks for the input on the Stew Mac bits. They seem a little pricey but if you say they are worth it........

    I discovered that using the plexiglass worked better for templates because I had a problem with using wood. It seemed that the bearing from the pattern following bit would eat into the wood. I just print out a full size layout from Kinko's and then lay the plexiglass on top of it to mark off centerlines and whatever other reference points, then the layout of the body itself. I used the Ibanez Petrucci layout in the downloads section and ended up with a really nice and accurate body. Just haven't routed for the neck or pickups yet......gotta get that bit.

    Anyway, thanks for the input.

  7. In the pictures on your website it seems that you have a bit that is about 1/2 inch long...maybe I looked at it wrong. What I could use a shorter bit for is to route the pickup cavities and neck pocket. I don't like to freehand with a router, so I use 1/8 inch plexiglass as a template. The template mixed with a 1 inch cutter length bit still makes the route a little too deep.

    Stew Mac sells a shorter bit (for what seems to be alot of money), and was looking for a different online source.

    Thanks for your time.

  8. Guitar Ed,

    I like the tele.....thinking about a tele for a future project. One question though; where did you find the short router bit? The shortest ones that I can find around here are 3/4 inch cutting length. Would like to find a 1/2 inch cutting length, 1/4 inch collet bit. I've got the bearing and collar stuff, just looking for the bit specifically for routing the pickup and neck cavities.

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