bscur
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Posts posted by bscur
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I'll take a picture tomorrow, but I used the Stew-Mac recipe of primer, gold, red trans, clear.
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So, I came home excited about putting my candy apple red tele project together and noticed the cutaway area wasn't perfect. So, I tried to lightly sand it smooth so that it would polish as beautifully as the rest. Of course, I went too deep and the clear red is now lighter and it looks horrible. Can I shoot a bit of red lacquer there with an air brush gun? I've never used one and find the cut away area hard to do with the full spray gear. Any suggestions? I just messed up my whole summer project. Grrr
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I am interested in how to get that tobacco sunburst yellow to almost black finish on mahogany like a Les Paul Junior. Do you have to bleach the wood? How does mahogany get lighter and yellow?
Thanks
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I am about to put a Fralin P-92 pickup in and I can't tell which way is forward and which is backward. How shoul I mount it? It looks the same if you turn it 180 degrees. Should the wire exit the pickup on the back right hand side or back left hand side?
Thanks,
Brad
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Hi, I am starting my first build and I am curious if there are problems starting with bloodwood for an OM model. What is considered the easiest tonewood to learn on? I've built electrics, but the acoustic thing is new to me and I understand that the first one will be a learning experience and not a masterpiece.
Any advice would be great regarding the wood selection.
Thanks,
Brad
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Can anyone describe the difference between an OM that is all Koa (top included) vs a mahogany /spruce version?
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Great, thanks. I haven't looked into the cap values, but I did pick up some 500k pots.
Thanks,
Brad
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Hi,
I'm using a pair of Fralin P90's. The guitar body is mahogany with a maple cap and a mahogany/rosewood neck.
Thanks for the input.
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Hi,
I need a wiring diagram for a tele using p-90's. Everything is standard (one volume and one tone) except I want to put in a Les Paul style 3-way switch. I can't find a diagram for this switch- all the tele diagrams have the blade switch. Can you help me?
Thanks,
Brad
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I was thinking of getting an old parlor, refinishing it and adding an abalone rosette. Can you route out an existing rosette? Anyone tried it?
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When I added the fretboard I gave it more girth at the neck. I decided to just go through with it and see how it goes. Are there good fretting tutorials? Also is there an alternate to nut files or do I need the specific tool.
Thanks
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In case it matters, I measured and it is about 1 9/16. I saw that Fender had an "A" neck that was 1 1/2 so it looks like there are necks that thin out there.
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I'm trying my 1st neck. Overall, I'm encouraged by the process. However, when shaping the neck I got a little thin at the neck nut width portion. What's the thinnest guitars traditionally go? I've seen 1 11/16, 1 7/8, 1 5/8. So how thin can it be. I'd rather not scrap it ( glued on the fretboard with abalone dots and all already). However, if it's a lost cause then I'll chalk it up to a learning experience. Thanks.
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I've got an old Twin Reverb and I made a basic on/off footswitch for the vibrato effect. It works fine, but I'd like to add a battery powered LED to show when it is on. How do I do that?
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I have a Menatone 5 knob Dirty Blonde pedal for sale. This effect is a tweed amp in a box- very amp-like and expressive. I'm open to trades for other Menatone stuff. $215
bscur@yahoo.com
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The guitar does show up on a guitar tuner as pretty much in tune at the 12th fret. However, this thing is seriously out of tune on an open chord. The G string sounds muffled and the high e sounds like a sitar even though it has plenty of relief. It is a shame to have to work on a brand new nut, especially since I haven't ever tried that. I put in very light strings. Could that be it?
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I just finished a tele and have a big problem keeping it in tune and intonated. I don't get it. I tuneall strings and then test them at the 12th fret, just like I always do, they match up. Then I play an open G chord and ughhh, dissonance. The only thing I can think of is maybe the neck pocket is too shallow and the saddles are up too high. Could that cause this? They are the old barrel saddle style. The neck is a mighty might neck that I'm not very impressed with (the nut is poorly cut), but this guitar is impossible to keep in tune and it's my fourth build. I just don't get what's wrong. It's never been a problem. Help!!!
Thanks,
Brad
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The sparkle paint can't really be captured right on a picture, but it is dazzling. I wanted to try the opposite of the figured maple tops of the first two guitars. I bought the "flakes" used to create the look here: http://www.paintwithpearl.com/ and then just added them to the nitro lacquer and sprayed it on. I had to put a couple marbles in the sprayer and shake it often so the flakes wouldn't sink, but it came out great. I used .oo4 sized flakes and didn't have to sand anything down. I guess sometime with bigger flakes you are left with too rough a surface. After the top clear coats, this guitar is quite smooth. I found a few videos here that give a good approximation of the real look of the guitar. Press play on the video to check it out:
http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm?fus...flake_turquoise
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Thanks. I have been thinking about starting a neck or two and have the wood, but I'm just stumped with how to go about doing it. The tele top was stained dark brown, sanded, stained amber/brown, sanded, and finally used an amber stain. I read up on the tutorials and copied the PRS idea of staining very dark and then sanding it out to get the contrast. It really turned out better than I'd hoped. I used a lot of test pieces of wood and practiced with mixing different shades of dye.
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These are my first three builds. First came the mahogany Godin style (semi-hollow mahogany/maple cap with Fralin HB's). Next came the Tele (alder/maple cap 5-way switch on the HB and tele bridge). I just finished the Sparkle Strat with Fralins in it. I made all the bodies and finished them, but bought the necks. I'd like to build a neck, but it seems daunting.
Brad
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I have two sets of walnut with tremendous grain patterns that I want to put on a couple of guitars. I have alder, mahogany, and alder to choose from. What would be the best parings? The walnut is 1/4" thick. I also am curious about pickups. The internet sources I've read claim walnut to be a good tonewood, but pickup selection is important. Then they don't say what pickups are a good choice. Hmm. So, p90, humbuckers, single coils? I was thinking a mahogany/walnut top, mahogany neck with with p90's. Would this be in the appropriate range? Other suggestions? Maybe more specifically, with walnut what should be avoided?
Thanks,
Brad
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Damn. I have a tele template on the way. Good thing you warned me of the error or I would have screwed up a body I was making for someone else. I already have his thinline and bought this template specifically to get the control pocket right.
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I'm still looking. Anyone have a recipe?
Brad
I'm looking for a recipe for making antique white using the stew-mac pigments in lacquer. I bought the Stew-Mac finishing book, but it doesn't have a recipe for that or daphne blue either. If you have one, I'd appreciate it.Thanks,
Brad
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A guy asked me to finish his neck that has a signature on it done with a sharpie (onto bare wood). Can I spray satin nitro right onto it, or do I need to seal in the sharpie with another product?
Thanks
Does This Neck Look Broken? I Was Offered It In A Trade
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
Hello,
What do you think of this picture. I was offered a guitar in trade and this is a picture of that guitar neck. The owner says it is just a "scratch/scrape" and there isn't a crack or break. What do you think? This is a pic the owner sent me.