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bscur

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Posts posted by bscur

  1. Thanks for the encouragement. Maybe it's time I give it a shot.

    Brad

    you should really try to make a neck, it looks like you will be more than capable and it really isnt that hard.

    try to remember that a lot of the specialist tools for fretting are not really neccisary. They make the job quicker but there is always another way of doing things.

    The basic tools i use for making necks are:

    Hand saws for splices

    Planes

    Router with parallel edge guide

    Rasps

    Radius block

    Fret press caul

    triangle files

    I also have the stew-mac slotting jig and lots of fretting tools but they are recent purchases and i have done the same work without them in the past. You can avoid all the slotting tools if you buy a pre-slotted and radiused board to make your first time that bit easier.

    Notice i have two sepcialist tools on my basic list. A good radius block is a must for me but even this can be homemade. I like to press frets and use the stew-mac caul in a drill press for this. There have been some good homemade cauls for this around here.

    It is difficult to see how to make necks untill you try one for yourself - i garantee it will turn out better than you think it can!

  2. Thanks (I think). Indeed, I did make them. Here are a few pics of the in progress work on the brown semi-hollow tele. I do have a router, band saw, table saw, etc. I don't have any of the fretting tools, fret benders, files, radiused boards, clippers, fret presses etc. I'd love to make my own necks, but it seems harder and I have has a difficult time seeing how it's done. If anyone has a good resource for information on making a neck without spending $500 on tools, let me know.

    Thanks,

    Brad

    ThinlineTeleinprogress1.jpg

    new052.jpg

    new053.jpg

    new089.jpg

  3. Help me out. What's star grounding?

    Thanks

    Ah, I see how they're doing it. That volume lug is normally "bent back" to touch the casing, in order to ground it. So, that's the volume pot's "ground". Possibilities:

    1. You're not getting continuity between that volume lug and the casing.

    2. If you DO have continuity, as per #1, then your volume casing might not be grounded. Does the volume work? The "Black wire from output jack" has to be soldered to the volume pot casing.

    Or to put it another way, here's your tone capacitor's signal path as it currently stands:

    Tone lug --> volume lug --> pot casing --> ground

    Since it ultimately goes to ground, you can cut out the middle man by just wiring the capacitor right to the volume pot casing and making sure that the volume pot casing IS going to ground ("black wire from output jack").

    ----

    Additionally, that wiring scheme would make for a very straightforward conversion to "star grounding". I mean, if it ain't broke, you don't have to fix it, but when I change electronics, etc., I always take the opportunity to make a star ground while I'm at it. If you want to give it a try, I'll hook you up with the knowledge needed. :D Otherwise, try my above advice and see where it gets you.

    Greg

  4. I have the cap going from the tone lug to the volume lug and then to the volume casing, as per the Fender diagram. I don't have a separate wire going strictly from casing to casing. Here's the diagram I used:

    http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...5300_02BPg2.pdf

    The result is a very bright tone and no tone knob functionality at all.

    Let me just confirm:

    You have the capacitor only going from one pot casing to the next pot casing? Won't work. It has to be attached to one of the tone knob's lugs. Can't remember offhand which one.

    Greg

  5. No. The diagram didn't show ground going from the volume to the tone pot if you mean not on a lug, just from one dome to the next. Should I do that? Obviously I just connect the dots without much knowledge of why (I suppose I should learn).

    I'll give it a shot.

    Thanks,

    Brad

    Did you run a ground wire between the vol and tone pot casings?
  6. I wired up a Nashville style tele todat and the tone knob isn't working. Any idea what this could be due to? I checked and double checked diagram (http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdfs/DLXNASHTELE/SD0135300BPg2.pdf) right off Fender's website. The guitar sounds very bright and the tone pot does nothing. I rewired it twice using different pots. I'm using a fralin neck, sp42 middle, and an sp43 bridge pickup. Could it be the pickups? This confuses me because I've never had this happen before and I've wired up a number of guitars. Help.

  7. Thanks for the kind words. The guitar is normal thickness for a tele, but the perspective is a bit odd in the pic. The body is alder (and the back is a burst of black on a brown stain) and the top is maple. It is chambered on both sides and quite light. I have a jamb (I think that's the spelling) gun that I got as a gift and am going to use when my Stew Mac lacquer gets delivered in thhe next day or so. The thin part by the neck cavity is pretty much a mistake in routing out the body shape. When I did the neck pocket there was the peninsula left over. I still have quite a bit to learn. When you guys spray, how long can the lacquer stay in the gun? Does it have to be cleaned out after each coat? Each day? Couple days?

    Thanks again

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