CrazyManAndy

Welcome!

I think the best thing you can do is get a good book on the subject. This will answer many of your questions and get you started on the right track. I would also go back and read old threads, I've found many useful tips this way.

I highly recommend Melvyn Hiscock's "Make Your Own Electric Guitar".

CMA

Poplar will work. I've read that it is tonally similar to Alder. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use it, other than it doesn't look very nice.

Oh, and that headstock is the nuts! Nice job!

CMA

If you don't have a router, a drill and chisels would work in lieu, or you could put in a single coil sized humbucker if you don't want to mess with it.

CMA

You can darken it up by leaving it out in the sun, but if you're looking for vintage tint, staining is by far your best bet.

Just test out different stains/combinations on some scrap and then apply a UV-resistent poly or nitro.

CMA

It tells you in the description. They are marking cracks and small voids that will need to be filled.

CMA

http://stores.ebay.com/Fraser-Valley-Fine-...3QQftidZ2QQtZkm

CMA

Very nice! Good choice on the plain maple.

CMA

That post describes wet sanding with TO, which is a perfectly good way to fill in the pores on a homogenous wood (like walnut). You would never want to do this in a mixture of laminated light & dark woods, as you would get a dark-colored grain fill on the lighter woods that would make them look dirty.

Black limba, with the alternating light & dark areas, is kind of in-between. It could be done, but for me an additional problem (besides the pore filling) was that TO does add a slight amber hue. This looks absolutely lovely on figured maple, but on black limba it subdued the light-dark contrast that i was trying to highlight on the instrument that I was building.

Best advice is always to try it on scrap....who knows, you may actually like it.

Interesting. +1 on testing it out on scrap. Seems to be the one universal rule in finishing.

CMA

Tru-oil builds and it works as a grain filler.

Check out this thread (start at tomlang's post to begin at the meat of the thread):

http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threa...?id=357_0_7_0_C

CMA

stewmac.com

CMA

I think I pay a bit less. A board 200cm by 15cm by 5cm would = about 6.5'x 6" x 2" so 6.5 board feet. That'd cost me $28 here in NC. Price is $4.30/bf if I buy over 6 board feet. Less if I buy 1" thick.

Odd that you pay more. I actually ordered a 75x20x2.5cm piece and paid about $12 with shipping because I was too lazy to drive for a piece that small. Gotta love the hardwood store on NC!!!!!

Todd

http://www.hardwoodstore.com/specialty.html

That is the same supplier I use, I live about 30 or 40 minutes away from them. I'm about to go get some flamed maple. Great place to get wood.

CMA

Nice job on the angled jack hole. Superstrats aren't really my cup o' tea, but it's really nicely done! Love the grain too.

CMA

From my local supplier, the same amount of wood would have cost roughly the same as the unofficial price you got. Maybe a few dollars less.

Of course, that wouldn't include resawing charges to get the cuts I want.

CMA

You can try a router bit to dish out the control holes. It might give you the rough idea of what you're looking for.

Yep.

http://www.exit45.com/ttnp/RecessedKnobs

CMA

Are you asking if it is possible? Certainly.

CMA

There are other water based finishes. For instance:

https://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....er+based+Finish

CMA

I doubt you'll find a pre-slotted tulipwood fretboard; however, you could buy the wood and have someone slot it for you. I believe Jon has a slotting service. You might want to ask him.

Here is his website: http://www.jonsbasses.com/pages/service.htm

CMA

We've been missin' ya albertop!

I love that color. It's very dark cherry.

Great job!

CMA

No biggie!

CMA

A few threads down from yours:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=30171

CMA

I read somewhere about a "65" rule. Don't spray under 65 degF or over 65% humidity. As I did my own spraying, I found that as the weather got to these limits, problems developed. The humidity one seemed worse. The lacquer developes a white look that may come out but maybe not completely.

Yep, I believe that is called moisture blushing. Happens in high humidity. You can get it out with a blush remover.

Sounds like a good rule to me.

CMA

Supposedly, Fralin makes the best P90 out there. I've never tried it.

I am going to try out a Tonerider P90 in my build. I've heard great things about their pickups.

CMA

I had two and sent them both back. They were far from being dead flat. I checked with a very accurate precision ground straight-edge. You need such a straight-edge to check them yourself; you have to be your own quality control for stewmac products, and I've found that having stew-mac employees checking the tool for you doesn't mean much. They want the less than perfect tools to still get bought.

I know of at least one other repairman who sent his back for the same reason. I also know one builder who bought one, and says it checked out perfect with his precision straight-edge.

Well that doesn't sound to encouraging. And here I thought stew-mac was supposed to be top quality. I'll buy one and get it checked out. We'll see what happens.

CMA

I'm building up my tool collection for my first build, and I was looking at getting one of these 16" levelers from stew-mac. They seem like the best option to me, especially with regard to versatility. Anyone fans or detractors of the tool here?

CMA

edit: I see why now. Thanks Mattia.

CMA