CrazyManAndy

I asked him and he said it still looks great. But he said that he doesn't play it as much as his fretted guit and that he uses flatwounds to reduce wear.

Might have to wait awhile to see any appreciable difference...

CMA

Thanks for the response Wez.

It sounds like it would depend partly on how thick you apply the tru-oil. I couldn't say about tru-oil's long-term resistance to guitar strings, but I know a lot of people finish their maple necks with it and it seems pretty resistant to hand-oils and what not. I think I'll ask chucker what condition the fretboard is in now, maybe he can post a current pic.

I've not done that violin yet. I'm trying to get a Tele project going right now which I'll start it after I get back from vacation, so I'll probably start the violin after I complete that. BTW, violin strings are pretty minimal on wear to the fretboard, so I think tru-oil will work fine in that scenario.

CMA

Wez, tru-oil is a little different from traditional oils, as I said. It is actually a hard finish and it builds up on the wood.

CMA

Man, that is a sweet piece of Bubinga.

Bubinga is around 40% harder (in general) than maple, I believe. I couldn't really predict what would happen, I'll leave that to the more experienced, but it seems like a possibility to me especially if you use carbon fiber rods.

Great looking piece of wood though, I hope you use it in something.

CMA

Q #1) I don't really like the handle thing, so I would say no....

Q #2) It isn't going to effect your tone, so you don't have to worry about that.

CMA

While we are talking about finishing fretboards, I came up with a question last night that fits in here. Do you have to use a lacquer or poly finish on a maple fret board? Or can you use an oil finish. I love the feel of an oiled neck, but am making my first maple fretboard and did not know if I could oil the board as well. I also prefer the nice light color of natural maple versus the amber color of the tinted or aged lacquered boards. Would any of the oils be less likely to darken the woods color?

Capu, who built a very nice PRS style guitar with maple fretboard, said that he put down a few coats of S&S before applying the oil to prevent it from getting yucky.

Alternatively, you could use Tru-oil. It is much tougher than traditional oils. It is much simpler to apply (no S&S) and you don't have to worry about it coloring the wood. There is an example here:

http://reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=14369

CMA

You don't want to use a dremel in place of a router, they are two totally different animals.

CMA

This is an awesome thread on fret leveling:

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums...d.php?t=1439881

I recommend reading through the whole thing. They discuss radius blocks v. flat leveling, too.

CMA

So, are we talking literal colorblindness or are you joking?

That is a nice color scheme though.

CMA

Oh, for some reason I thought you were joeglow from reranch....

Anyway, some people use roundover bits for their neck profiles, but that is only for taking out bulk wood. Final shaping is done by hand (spokeshave, rasp, sandpaper, etc.).

CMA

Or you could order one online?

CMA

Is that you Joe? Nice to have you here at PG! Anyway, I hope you enjoy the forum.

CMA

[quote name='thegarehanman' post='337824' date='Jul 5 2007, 01:45 AM']I'm pretty sure gibson is using a two part automotive finish these days. I say that because Valspar was selling the Nashville plant their finish a few years ago (maybe they still are?) and I'm 99% sure Valspar does not put out nitro.[/quote]

That sounds very possible. If they were using nitro, I just couldn't see them waiting only four days (though I don't suppose I would put it past them).

CMA

It is best to wait atleast month. Four days (or a week) is not a good idea at all if you want a high-quality finish, but many people/companies do it.

CMA

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=289509

CMA

If you want red in your fretboard, bloodwood will deliver:

http://www.guitar-mod.com/13.html

http://www.elderly.com/new_instruments/items/JGB95DX.htm

CMA

I would love to know how they sound. Ever since they introduced them, they've been promising sound clips but have not put up any as of yet.

But yeh, they would make an easy stompbox project.

CMA

Thanks guys. I'll probably get a few pieces of marble and just see what happens.

But that granite surface plate sounds very interesting. I'll have to see if I can find some.

CMA

That is awesome Jon! I love black walnut. Looks like you'll have plenty of redwood too.

CMA

Hey capu,

I just love that mahogany/birdseye maple PRS you made, and I have a few questions about it. What type of mahogany is that? Is your finish just oil (i.e. no grain filling, staining, etc.)? What kind of oil did you use?

Beautiful guitars, by the way!

CMA

Glass is usually pretty flat on it's own - float glass is the flattest, but plate is still pretty damn flat. Not as good a surface plate, but probably as flat as a jointer or table saw top. Marble tile is pretty damn flat too, and a lot of tile places will let you have a piece for free if you ask nicely. Don't use regular tile though - that's cast and glazed, not ground and polished like marble.

You say marble tile is pretty flat? My brother is a tile layer and he could probably hook me up with a nice piece or two for free.

CMA

hoe can i glow him and make the inlay ??

CMA

#1 is Walnut

On #2, I am leaning toward Ash

I have no idea for #3. Yellowheart, as Jon suggested, seems reasonable.

CMA

Man, that is nice bubinga. I'm thinking about building a violin with bubinga back and sides. That would be hawt!

CMA

Did you ever finish this?

CMA