WiFiGuy

Thanks Strato-Master, here's a follow up: I de-soldered the switch and removed it last night. I was hoping for a part number that I could look up but there was only specification re voltage and milliamps on the side. I did some online searches with the numbers I pulled off the housing but wasn't able come up with any real matches. I did check Mouser's site (I buy stuff from them already) and scrolled through about 50 pages of switches and again didn't see the one I need. So...I went the easy route and jumpered the switch contacts on the board and it worked. I'll plug the hole in the case with a small piece of plastic and I should be good to go. Just a note to any of you who use Line6 products, they're quite breakable so treat them with care. If you do have a hardware problem, tech support for these type questions is non-existent. Thanks

Thanks very much, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Of course if I do try this and it does wreck the device, I would the responsible party. By asking on this forum, I was just curious to see if anyone else shared in my assessment of the problem. Here's another quick question: The power supply used for this device outputs 9vAC@200mA, would 22 gauge wire be OK for the jumper? Thanks

Hi, I think this one will be easy, but since it involves a fairly pricey electronic device, I figured I better ask before I do something I may regret. Here goes: I have a Line6 POD XT that won't turn on. It's on / off switch is a rocker switch that I think may be bad. The switch has two "legs" or contacts that are soldered to the device's main board. When the switch is in the ON position, I would think that there should be continuity between the two contacts but there is not. Is it possible that I could simply solder a jumper wire across these two contacts and then power the device on / off by plugging / unplugging the power supply either at the wall or at the power input jack on the POD? There is continuity to each leg of the switch from the stero type power jack. The middle pin inside this jack connects to one leg while the side or sleeve of the jack connects to the other leg on the switch. I'm hesitant to try jumpering this since I don't want to fry the ICs on the unit and then lose my $300 investment in the gizmo--it's actually pretty cool to play around with. Line6 has no tech support whatsoever and cannont or won't answer my repeated questions about this switch. Any help of advice that you can give would be greatly appreciated.

So far no luck in finding the inserts, but here is reply that I got from: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=53 "I searched around for a while, came up empty handed. Usually you get the inserts included when you buy the trem. Floyds and Start inserts are so common you'll have no problem finding them, but I have no idea where to get the inserts you need. I even tried to find a way for you to contact Wilkinson directly, but they have no site, no E-mail that I can find. So, good luck dude, I can't find anything." Here's a quick tip re the UG forum. Use Firefox as your browser but first install the "adblock" add-on. It will stop UG's annoying pop up ads. Get it here: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/1865/

As an FYI to anyone else following this thread, here is some info that I got from : http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=53 "No you won't have to apply the sealer first. That is to treat the raw wood before spraying the lacquer. Since the neck has already been dipped you shouldn't need to worry about that. I would hit it with some steel wool at least before spraying. If it were me I'd go over the entire back of the neck with some 320 grit. The neck pocket is your choice. You can finish the neck, and then do a bit of sanding if you need to get it to fit, or you can tape off the heel area that actually makes contact in the pocket. The choice is yours, although I prefer to have my heel finished as well. Unless its a maple board remember to tape off the fretboard. Good luck dude."

I have Warmoth strat replacement (mahogany / kingwood) neck that that I bought a couple of years ago for a guitar build that failed. The neck was never installed and never finished. It sat in my basement (not too damp, not too dry) in it's shipping box for a couple of years. The neck still looks great and shows no signs of warping or twisting, so I'm going to attempt to use it with a finished Warmoth body that I just received. Here is how Warmoth's neck ship: "All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing. We strongly recommend you apply a hard finish to all Maple, Mahogany, and Koa necks." The plan is to shoot the neck with a few coats of Behlen B104-1406 Stringed Instrument Lacquer Aerosol to give it the recommended hard finnish. And although Behlen's instructions highly recommend the use of their B102-8000 Vinyl Sealer Aerosol product as a base coat, I was wondering if I really need this since Warmoth has already applied a sealer. Secondly, since the neck has sat, should I sand it or rub it down with steel wool before applying the finish? Lastly, the neck already fits very snugly in the body pocket, so should I be concerned about building up the overall thickness of the heel when I apply the finish? If the heel grows and has trouble fitting into the neck pocket, I suppose a little sanding of the pocket would solve the problem, but I figured I'd check in with you guys first, before I start. Thanks in advance for any tips of suggestions that you might have.

Hi and thanks in advance to anyone who replies to this thread. After totally messing up the neck pocket route on my first attempt at a from-scratch body build, I decided to go with a finished Warmoth body and I just received it a couple of days ago. Here's my question(s): Does anyone know where to find post inserts that will fit in holes drilled for a .382" (9.70 mm) diameter insert? I can find the skinnier American Standard strat ones and the fatter Floyd Rose versions, but can't seem to find the inserts for Wilkinson / Gotoh anywhere. Is there a "rule of the thumb" with regard to how deep the insert should be installed in the hole? Should the insert itself be installed flush to the body of the guitar or is slightly recessed OK? I have a pair of American Std. inserts that I've placed into the holes and though they don't fit snuggly, they sit slightly below the body. I know I'll have more questions as I start putting the guitar together, and I know from previoius experience that this is a great place to go to get info, so thanks to anyone who replies.

Many thanks for the advice--in reading it all I think I may give the router method a try first. I'll get a scrap of leftover piece of body wood and glue on a scrap of top wood, then I'll try the two step routing process described by Erik. I'll also give the "climbing" route methods a try as well. I'll take a look at making a routing table using some flat, wide laminated shelving material that i have for the table top--if that turns out to be too much trouble I'll go get one from Home Depot. If the trial routes work out and I feel comfortable with the set up, I'll then take it to the guitar. If not, I'll drop back and sand. I'll post results when I get 'em. Thanks again.

Hi all--well, here's the latest with the semi hollow Jag: Set the neck into the body: http://www.geocities.com/buildaxe/neckon1.jpg Routed the pickups: http://www.geocities.com/buildaxe/neckon2.jpg Routed for the controls and the tremolo: http://www.geocities.com/buildaxe/neckon3.jpg Now need to round these edges: http://www.geocities.com/buildaxe/neckon4.jpg I know that I should probably just use the router with a round over bit but am a bit leery due to the dreaded "tear out" word. I'd hate to mess this up after all of this work!!! I have a drill press with drum sander that I was thinking of using to gradually take down the edges or was thinking about using a random orbital. I have a belt sander and a palm sander that I can use for additonal shaping. Any advise on techniques or tools would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Jon---thanks for sharing the tip. Sometimes this stuff is obvious, but I can't or won't see it because I'm so fixated on trying not to mess up. Your technique sounds good and I'll give it a try.

Been making some progress of late on my Semi Hollow Jag project, here are pics: http://www.geocities.com/savespark/Glued-up-front.jpg http://www.geocities.com/savespark/Glued-up-back.jpg Top and bottom are glued, neck pocket's routed, crontrol cavity is routed, jack mounting area has been routed, and recesses for control knobs have been made for pots and switches. Any helpful hints on any of the following would be greatly appreciated: Pick Up Placement I'll be going with a S-S-H (Seymor Duncans) assortment and would like to know about placement, i.e. neck, middle and bridge. Been reading a bit but thought I'd check with some of you before taking the router to the wood. My neck is Warmoth Std. Strat style with 25 1/2 inch scale. It does overlap the bottom of the pocket so I know I can't be there with my neck PU. I'd be interested to know about how far I should be from the last fret and how far away from the bridge I should be. Trem Mounting Screws I'm going with an LR Baggs Std. X-Bridge Strat replacement tremolo with piezo pickups under the saddles. Since the X-Bridge is sold as a replacement, I didn't get any mounting screws--or at least don't think I did. Any ideas on what I should use? Neck Installation Any ideas on how to get the neck holes marked on the neck pocket once the neck is lined up with the center line? Am I correct to think that THIS is one area that I should try to be as precise as possible? Making a template is not out of the question but will take some time. Claw installation in rear StewMac's instructions say to use a special "aircraft bit" to drill the mount holes for the claw. Is this really necessary? and how far in do you go with the screws. Saw a picture someone posted of the screws not being flush with the claw--is this normal? Thanks

Oh yeah, I took an angry chisel to my project (semi-hollow body guitar) trying to remove wood inside the controls cavity so that the threads on an LR Baggs jack would poke out the other side. Although I didn't draw blood, I went straight through the side wall, cracked the wood and made a huge hole. N Now my "baby" has a scar and and a very obvious repair---I have since put the chisels away. Oh, and then there was the time I was routing a cable chase into a peice of plastic with a Leatherman tool. While bracing the plastic on my thigh I slipped and the 3 inch knife I was using went into my leg-- "like butta". Got some stiches on that one..... You'll be laughing about it soon enough, hang in there....

Glued in a plug made of mahogany then sanded it down to height. Filled in the gap around the plug and the previous cut with filler made from Tightbond and sawdust. Then re-cut the neck pocket using the template and a 1/2" straight router bit that had three pieces of duct tape (one complete wrap for each piece) around the bearing. Did not go back in with the 3/8" bit to get the corners of the pocket radiused--the 1/2" bit was fine as is. This, along with simply being more careful and methodical seemed to work. The neck now fits in snugly and lines up with the body's center line. I also made a new face and cut it / sanded it to match up with the body neck cavity. Here's a pic: Next will be to drill out the controls and switch holes in the face. I'll also have to recess these holes from the back of the face since it is much thicker than a pickguard. Once this is laid out and drilled, I'll glue the face to the body then will route the trem and pickup cavities. Here's more on the build with a bit more detail: http://www.geocities.com/buildaxe/ Thanks agian for all the advice and encouragement---I think this thing may work out OK afterall.....

PRS--that makes sense and yes I have enough maple that I could do it. What about the depth? I guess I could do the same thing, that is, glue down a 1/4+ inch thick piece of mahogany then lay in the maple sides then route again. With the top going on over it all it might cover the grain inconsistencies. Also, if looks too bad I could cover it all with a pick guard. Thanks for the input.

This should give you an idea: