YDoesGodMockMeSo

awesome

I suppose that's a consideration. I rarely change my tuning, so I'd be fine with that; however, I wonder if they'll make special string sets for Drop-D, which is something many people rely on.

Greg

well i know on standard floyd w/ standard strings..

you can detune from standard E to Drop-D without messing with the locking nut or etc.

I would pretty much keep the fine tuner for hte low E as close to the bottom as i can get it while still being able to keep it tuned to E....and then whenever i wanted to drop it down to D...i'd just use the fine tuner ...

worked for me.

But I dunno if that would work on speedloaders.

if only it were that easy..

you couldn't have clicked the thread ...three posts down from this one... before posting this?

www.guitarbuild.com i believe has one.

whoa...14.5 degree angle....

I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle.

Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees.

Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly)

Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs.

You may be right, in fact, I'm almost positive you are. lol

Anyway, anyone know a good method or have measurements for the recess?

nope....

i just plan on recessing all my bridges

whoa...14.5 degree angle....

I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle.

Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees.

Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly)

Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs.

it's a good idea to ruff cut out the body, either on a bandsaw or jigsaw, leave about 1/8" (more if it's a cheap jigsaw) then you can either sand to the line, or use a router template. I would advise using the router mounted in a table when routing a body shape, as it can get kind of tricky to balance a router only half supported on a template.

or you can use the extra cut off from the body and an extra peice of wood (the thickness of ur template) and make a channel around where you're routing..so u don't have to worry about balancing...because it'll be supported on one half by the guitar and template...and the other side with the cut off and extra wood.

It may take a bit longer because you might have to stop and restart in order to move the support and adjust it so its all ok and even.

Thats what I did on my second body and it came out a lot nicer than my first.

The Jackson 3+3 is the Soloist, not that many people know it because is from their high end guitars, Not cheap like the Dinkys, I'm not 100% sure but I think they are made. I prefer this one rather than the regulars the neck is usualy thru and the reach to the higher frets is awsome.

Nah.

the 3+3 isn't limited to just soloists or USA made guitars.

The one in the picture is an import (SLSMG).

Its also on the KV-2T (USA KingV)

the AT-1T (USA archtop soloist from mid-late 90s)

and a couple of new ones that I've seen but don't remember.

I first saw it a number of years ago on the AT-1T and fell in love with it. And I saw pictures of it when I was designing my custom neck. The head IS angled, but I really don't think its more than 9 like carvins.

^ do u mean the standard jackson head stock?

or this gorgeous headstock?

Jackson's 3+3 is angled back..i. dont think its 13degrees..prolly closer to 9 like carvins....

but *my* neck that someone is building is jacksons 3+3 @ 13deg.

and the tuners are supposed to be drilled so the string is straight..... *crosses fingers*

but maybe his initials *ARE* SRV?

Sean Ricky Valenz?

or...whatever

u can string the guitar w/ the ballend at the tuners....

as for removing strings, you can put something in the recess under the fine tuner area ..like an eraser...some playing cards....a 9V battery wrapped in electrical tape.

anything will keep the spring tension there...while u restring and/or clean the fretboard and/or clean the bridge.

theres a CAD of the rhoads at guitarbuild.com seems accurate..but its for neckthru...so u'l have to design a neckpocket.

Is the neck with the ebony fretboard going to have a locking nut installed? If so, it looks like the fretboard doesn't have the usual thin shelf that the nut sits on - what's the reason for doing it that way? Sorry if it's not a floyd nut neck.

well, like i said before in another thread, according to my measurements the nut should be able to sit right on the neck blank with a 3/16" fingerboard and tall frets... infact i might even have the shim the nut with the approriate shims i have here to get it up to the right height. \

LGM said he had some problems with it, hopefully i have it worked out right on this neck

yeah..i hope you have it worked out too....

you should draw here everything will go (to scale)..see if you can shave some of the butt off.

*hopes Derek knows what he's talking about*

^ nah..the monkey was rafiki

mufasa?

you haven't failed hynsu...just made a mistake..no biggie... it'll be a fine neck i'm sure.

^ looks like an Explorer / SG hybrid.

It was sarcasm directed to another member that believes stewmac is the end all be all tool supplier.

I dunno where, if, you can get 5/8 neck furrels.

But for future reference, it might be better for people to find the 15mm bore bit. I *believe* (no pictures) that they are out there (Forstner) for $10.

oh ok.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

If you like it.... go with it

The neck pocket looks wierd. I dunno...it just seems too long. (Up to you and youre feeling really)

But according to a member here you just bought a tool that does their job accurately, properly AND saved you more than you mighthave spent buying (probably the right tool) elsewhere.

So obviously, the fault lies within you.