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kings_x

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Everything posted by kings_x

  1. I FINALLY got these pickups. The website said 4 weeks but it was more like 6 or 7. They are shipped in a clear plastic case and the pickup sits in foam rubber. The pickups themselves seem to be solidly constructed. Long shielded leads. The windings are covered by black electrical tape. The "crome" cover looks good, however it is made of plastic. The plastic is thick and seems pretty solid. It looks like metal until you touch it. I didn't measure the exact dimensions but it is about 1/8" to 1/4" less wide than the Seymour Duncan P-90 dimensions. It did not come with mounting screws. I don't know what it sounds like yet. Once I get them mounted I'll post a sound file and give my opinion. So far, for $25 they look like a good buy. The sound will be the true test.
  2. What about bleaching darker wood like mahogany or leopardwood? Will that bleach work on those as well?
  3. That's what I was thinking. Believe me, I know...
  4. The guitar I'm building is mainly mahogany. Its a semi-hallow 335 copy. I bought the mahogany from two different sources. One board was quarter sawn and used to make the neck and body core. The back is made from a different flat sawn board from another supplier. Both were sold as Honduras mahogany but both are quite different in color and feel. The neck/core wood is harder and darker than the back wood. The back wood feels almost "furry" and soft. It dents much easier and bends very easy. Any thoughts?
  5. I don't know I'm not British I'm South African. Keith That's almost the same thing. Those Brits use strange words for stuff all the time.
  6. Don't forget to ground the bridge as well. Keith: By "screened" to you mean shielded? Is that a British term or something?
  7. I would like to try it out. I have an Ovation Ultra GS which is basically a Strat copy with a humbucker in the bridge. Its my frankenstein guitar that I try out pickups and wireing schemes on. I also have a home built guitar using the Stewmac neck-thru neck and birdseye maple. I could record it in both for you so you can hear how it sounds. PM me if you want me to try it out. I'll send you my info. I live in central Indiana, South of Indy.
  8. If that were the case, would it be better to be burnt in a matter of minutes or to be eaten by worms over decades? Thanks for all your kind words.
  9. That's how I'm doing it. Here is the work in progress: http://easypichost.com/Mike/thumbnails
  10. My grandmother died this week after a fight with Alzheimer's. It was sad but I was glad to see her suffering end. What does this have to do with guitars? Her casket was made of solid mahogany. I thought it was sad that all that wood was just going to be buried in the ground never to be seen again. I told my wife, when I go I want to be buried in a pine box. Leave the mahogany for fine crafted instruments.
  11. Here is my thinline being taken for a test spin:
  12. I used a Dremel with a cutting disk. It made a pretty clean cut and didn't bend the end of the fret like side cuts do. You just have to be careful not to get the fret too hot which causes it to change colors.
  13. I may be showing my age but back in the days when Mtv showed rock n' roll videos there was a David Lee Roth video that showed Steve Vai playing this cool looking flame guitar.
  14. You gonna eat those strawberries? Can I have one?
  15. You are correct that is what you do not want to do. That is the definition of a ground loop. Like you said, tie everything back to one central point, say the volume pot housing. Then make sure it is tied to the bridge and the signal return (the ground that goes to the amp).
  16. A ground loop occurs when a circuit has two separate paths to ground. And those two grounds are not tied together electrically. Example: Using the bridge for a ground of part of the guitar circuit and the signal return (amp) for the other part of the circuit. To remedy this problem all you would have to do make sure there is a direct electrical path from the bridge to the signal return (ie, solder a wire between the two) and the ground loop is eliminated.
  17. A humbucker is two coils that are wound opposite of each other. The result is most of the noise of one coil is canceled by the other (and vice versa). The "magic" is the signal produced by the vibrating string is only partially canceled which results in a warmer "fatter" tone associated with humbuckers. mdr
  18. That's probably true in an electrically quiet environment, but shielding the cavity, or using shielded cable will lower the noise floor under almost all conditions. In the harsh environment of the average club musician, it's well worth the extra effort, especially if you have single-coil pickups. Why not take every advantage you have available? You are correct. Especially at high volumes, a little noise goes a long way and shielding will help. I think people overlook proper grounding. No amount of shielding will eliminate noise in a poorly grounded guitar.
  19. They just block static. The key to a quite guitar is good pickups and good grounding of the electronics and bridge. An unshielded cavity can be noise free if everything is well grounded.
  20. I ordered the chrome P-90s on Monday. They are on back order so I won't get them for 3-4 weeks. Which is fine because that should be when I'm ready to install them in the guitar I'm building. I'll let you know how they sound.
  21. I've got some black speed knobs I'll give you. I'll have to charge $50 for shipping though.
  22. I was thinking of using epoxy to attach them to the back side of the bridge and routing out a small pocket under it to accomidate them but leave enough for solid contact between the bridge and body.
  23. What about doing this with one of these bridges? Any ideas?
  24. I'm guessing no one else has used them. They have a money back guarantee, I guess I'll go ahead and give them a shot.
  25. Nice! I wish I had your workshop. I would live there.
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