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Is that silica powder the guy is using for epoxy filler in the video ?

Headstock angle is usually cut first before cutting the shape.

Or do you have some crazy thick neck blank which covers whole headstock with angle ?

have you considered getting a spoke wheel truss rod?

I think thats a closed option for me, cause the truss rod is there and fretboard is glued.

Only thing I have to decide is where I am gonna dig hole for neckpickup.

I don't know about that optimum spot thing, cause pickup is gonna be "out of place" anyway, compared to factory made guitars with 22 frets. The fretboard I am using is for 24 frets and guitar I´m building is a neckthru SG.

So that was not a hint that you could do multiscale fretboards for sale ?

Whell anyway, I´m going to check that Eriks calculator and see what it throws for price.

I´ve always wondered how those guys who glue frets in, manage to keep fretboard out of glue.

Try to imagine fretted fingerboard sanded with high grit sandpaper and some glue stains between the frets.

Does this idea about trussrod adjustment at neckpickup cavity sound good ?

Or is it too much trouble to remove the pickup so you can make adjustments with truss rod ?

What would it be like if you leave some space between fretboard and pickup and put truss rod access there, so you dont need to remove pickup when you want to adjust the trussrod ?

I ´m talking about electric guitar(s) here.

I can only imagine how hard it´s to slot fretboard for jet fretz.Does is take a CNC ?

This guitar was the reason why i started my own explorer project. I voted this explorer in GOTM.

I´m just curious, are there any luthiers in EU area who could do multiscale fretboards pre slotted ?

Hey , that explorer in first link looks like the explorer plan you can find from guitarbuild. Not like a gibson but more like warmoth one. Which is kinda ugly to me. Now why would I know this ? Because of the broken corner and bolt on desing and pot cavity looks the same too.

My first guitar was not all that great either, but are you happy with routes you did for pots ?

If you are in serious need for ebony strips of wood. Probably you could use another ebony fretboard to make them, if you can´t find any pre -made stuff. But it would be like a wasting another fretboard to save another.But what about other dark woods rosewood or wenge do they sound too stupid for binding ?

30 days and newbie. NO CAN DO ! If i must say. I´have been there and done that, you wanna see pics ? School project and tight time limit and all. Still no. How many hours you have ? Guitars take like 100 hours build and thats only if you have jigs and you don´t need to think about too much how to do things. 100 hours is like 8 hours per day in two weeks. My purpose is not to shoot down any dreams but to be realistic.

Mahogany for strat, tele or bass neck or anything else I just can´t think of ? ( i note those aren´t common woods in those builds, but what can you tell, this is project guitar). Do you have an idea how guitar looks likes and etC. ?

If someone thinks think this is a joke think about army.

Hi,

Just ordered some Bubinga for my forthcoming build. It´s about 2" thick. I´m using the wood for top. Atleast i need to re-saw it in 3.

The guitar I´m building is explorer and needs 3 pieces for top.

Is there possibility I could squeeze out more pieces from that blank ? Let´s say five. Then I´d had more tops for more guitars.

How thick slices I should cut to allow some planing before and after top is joined ? Is warping a factor that i should consider ?

hmm...That table sounds like a good guitar project to me

Router with edge guide here too. I´d bet that table mounted router would be better for angled back headstocks. Lack of support at headstock area makes me nervous with my current setup.

In this video

I think the difference is pretty obvious.

I think there was a guy at youtube who built one piece mahogany strat with brazilian rosewood fretboard. His name was Rushmore or something like that.

Always intrested when someone builds Les paul. Cause there are so many ways to do it. Just one question. When did you route neck pocket, before or after carving the top ?

I noticed you are from Finland too and those are nice looking guitars.

You give us so little info on those guitars. So, what did you actually do to them ? Built from scratch ? Or is it just paintjob and assembly or ,what ?

Don't be discouraged... but I have some constructive criticism for you.

1) The body halves look like they weren't jointed properly before being glued.

2) Is your chisel sharp? It looks like that carving was a struggle. A sharp chisel used properly should give you a smooth, easy cut.

3) It will be a hassle to put binding on that body. You've already carved the top, meaning the router (using a bearing bit to cut the ledge) has nothing flat to rest on. It may be best to leave this body unbound and plan the next project fully.

4) (segue) Speaking of planning fully, you'd better plan out that neck joint before cutting any more wood!!! Some things can be modified along the way, but I would feel very uncomfortable modifying a major structural joint on the guitar after already fabricating the body. And since your neck joint is still up in the air, what about your bridge position, and thus your pickup cavities? Everything flows from the placement of the scale length along the guitar.

Sorry for the negativity... but I think you can learn from it.

On the bright side, it looks like you're well on your way to cleaning up the body. You have more patience than I do with sanding.

1) Yeah , I think that too

3) Its possible to put binding on after the top is carved. http://www.elisanet.fi/~z632091/n5lespa/elokuu.shtml

Text is in finnish but you´ll get the idea how jig works by looking at the first picture.

Put your cad plans on memory stick and give it to someone who can print 1:1 scale. There are printing shops which can do this for money. Doesn't cost much.

I did this few weeks ago on explorer plans i found from guitarbuild. It was 5euro per sheet.

If you really don't care about the wood, you could just take a reciprocating saw along the joint (careful not to knick the truss rods). You'd be done in all of 30 seconds.

Well, if it goes into this. "If you're careful enough". He could try chainsaw or tablesaw.

I think l´l pack my sharpies and water color brushes and come to N.Y.