JohnnyG

looks like lovekrafts sorted everything out. that fuzztone looks to be an interesting little circuit. i may have to have a play

hey ansil man thats pretty nifty. looks damn groovy

turning it into a wah pedal would be easy in some ways and hard in other.

an actual wah circuit is easy to make and the hardest part of it generally is getting a good foot rocker case, which you have sothats easy.

what can be hard is getting hold of the 500mH inductors.

Antique Electronic Supplies has new fasel inductors for about $17 USD and some people have used small audio transformer primary coils.

all in all not a bad project and apart fom the inductor fairlly cheap. you may want to spend some cash on a good dpdt switch as well unless theres one withthe volume pedal for some reason.

also when ur building it have a look around the net for wah pedal mods. most of them are resistor changes you can make. i recentlly modded my Vox v847 and among other things i added an external pot to control the Q of the sweep, very useful

damn, if youd ship to the UK then id have a go at snapping up that tube amp, i could do alot with that

oh well, no worries

edit, just had a look at the wood as well, some nice stuff there. hope you get some good prices for it

amen to that love kraft. atm im looking to building myself something fun and tubular when i have the cash to sort it out. ive dropped a fair bit on a multi meter and a good quality soldering station so next paycheque hopefully.

i think that a booster pedal can be useful if you have a crap amp, just dont go overdriving the amp with it. ive found that a dallas rnage master clone over driven with a mosfet boost sounds great, so much so that im planning to build a pedal based on it.

i dont think my diddy amp would be happy being battered by an SHO tho

no you wont need a heat sink. just make sure you have something to getrid of the old solder quicklly, a solder sucker or de soldering braid. thatll make sure you dont fry them. then when you put the new ones in tin the wires before hand (basically put some solder on then and make sure it gets between the strands, makes it easier to solder them)

once youve tinned the wires and put them in then just go at it normally. you may want to get hold of some seperate flux. even tho solder has flux inside it just putting a dab on what you're trying to solder will make life alot easier (also makes it easier to tinwires ifyou put a little bit of extra flux on them before hand)

just so long as you dont hold the iron on for ages then you'll be ok. if you need to make new attatchmentsto the back of pots and such then file the surface a bit to take the exposed metal off. will make it alot easier to solder as well

hope thats halpful. just ask again if you still need a hand

JG

just take a small half roundneedle file to the bottom string nutslots. i had to do this since my kramer was cut for a set of 10s but the three low strings on my guitar are from a set of 12's and the string kept sticking when i was tuning.

just dont take too much off and use some lubrication (pencil lead works great) and you should befine

oh sry i didnt realise that the V-Twin was a guitar tube pedal. dont know muchabout what their product line names are but seems that i was right about all the SS stuff.

in that case lovekrafts idea to go with a hotbox clone or a real mctube would probablly be the best thing to do. tubes, fun and less SS stuff

we invented the language, theres a reason its called english lol

nehu, not here for a slagging match. thats a serious guitar. im loving the patterning on it. really cool effect

well a mesa amp would be very tricky to clone because of all the solid state circuitry inside it for all the channel switching, EQ changing etc etc. not saying you wouldnt be able to do it but its a serious project to take on. unless youve been building tube amps for a while id say start small.

the crybaby from hell if IIRC is basically a wah pedal with a variable Q control and then a switchable solo boost

so all youd do is build a standard crybaby, do a variable Q mod which is easy to do, anbd then tack a small cleanboost onto the end of it. for info on how to do all of that go to the DIY stompbox forums. HERE

hope all thats helpful

JG

and keeps offering to take me on tours of the submarines (yes, the ones we bought from Britain),  .

Don't forget your duct tape

Kaj

and water wings, you'll be needing them as well

Id have to agree with baretta guy on the Kramer side of things tho i reckon that the striker series has it. i have a striker custom in green with a TOM and as a first guitar i couldnt have asked for anything better. good hardware, good finish, nice to play and damn good price.

btw i broke the unwritten rule as well, i refused to have a squier as a first guitar simply on principal. same reason i still cant play stairway

man if you have a dual Opamp based autowah then thats about 5 ma drain i reckon, put a fuzz face in there as well and thats about 3ma max then with say an AMZ mosfet boost thats about another 3 ma drain so altogether you're looking atat a current draw of just about 11 ma. even if it hit 15ma youd still be able to run it all off a standard 9v battery for...*rough calculation* about 60 hours straight and use good batteries and it would probablly be double that.

remember, most simple analogue circuits draw fairlly minimal curent. its all the hulking great digital delay circuits that draw the real current.

if you perhaps managed to fit a boss digidelay in there then the phantom power supply would be a good idea but otherwise not much use tbh

i was guessing two as well, if you look at the large knot in the middle you can see where the edge of it just gets kinda cut off

tbh unless you have some seirious effects ina battery would be fine, you could always use two in paralel.

the phantom power supply that you mentioned should befine. i came up with the same idea a while back but i havnt actuallyhad a chance to try it out.

the only thing that would be a good idea is to put a diode inside your guitar on the ground connection to jack. otherwise when you plug the cable into the jack (assuming that your using tip as signal, ring as 9V and sleeve as ground) the 9v ring would touch the sleeve ground connection thus putting +9v on the wrong side of your electronics.

im fairlly sure the diode wouldnt adverslly affect the guitar (eg add noise or make it worse) tho you may wanna have a test to see

the only tricky part then would be drilling a suitable enclosure

have a 1000$ pedal board and a 50$ amp

erm.....*looks really guilty here*

gimme a moment to tally it up.

Boss OC-2 (£60)

Boss PS-3 (£70)

Marshall Jackhammer (£40)

Vox V847 Wah Reissue (£100)

Digitech Whammy WH-1 (£300, yeah it cost me an arm but i have spare cash floating and they're only gonna get more expensive)

Boss DD-6 (£110)

and then

Marshall MG15DFX (£100)

oh dear

Pup choice im afraid im not the man to ask. i can build electronics but when it comes to real guitar stuff like how to make it sound nice i know diddly squat im afraid. if you have the spare cash you could always get both and see which you prefer

oh, i assumed that they were active pickups on there

no theres no problem with using passives. makes life a little bit easier with regards to wireing

nah i dont think it was anyone here, i dontthink people here are that chiefy.....idont think so

not necesarilly two seperate units but you would have to have one punchline circuit and once flatline circuit. you could have them on the same PCB. you could even do them both with one chip by getting a quad opamp but in the interests of noise and PCB layout simplicity that wouldnt be the best idea.

battery wise you should be able to run everything, Pups and circuitry off one 9V battery. the current draw from EMGs is very small, i dont know if your going to use them but i assume most active Pups have similar ratings. you should beable to add in active EQ circuits for each of the Pups as well (i think you said you wanted this) and it'll all quite happily run ff one 9V.

ah in that case your still going to want a seperate punchline and flatline, still an easy build, just twice as much soldering.

you know, thats a REALLY, REALLY good point

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

lol

Well isnt it peachy when you're gonnawait untill the evening to use the buy it now option and some so and so goes and gets in there before you. just my luck.

well, i seem tohave found nother one that i like the look of and in manyways it looks suspiciouslly like the last only much better cosmetically.

so just a quick ask about before i go and actually buy it this time. thoughts people?

i forgot you could have the circuit switchable between the punchline and the flatline. that may be really easy to do then. just have a switch to choose Pup and then one to choose between compress or expand.

or im sure you could rig up some way of having the Pup selector switch automatically change the circuit for you so that as you switch between pups it automaatically switches between compress and expand.

only question then is what would you do ifyou wanted to use both Pups at the same time. then youd either have to have both compressed or expanded unless you went with the two circuits.

your call but neither would be espescially hard to do

lol its not so much that people hate your ideas, just that generally people on here know that when you start out, taking on something hard can discourage you easilly so ithink people are basically trying to make sure you dont over stetch yourself. im gonna have a look at this circuit just because im interested in how it sounds and how it does what it does. on your other thread people said that the circuitry suckedand it may well do. may as well try it out tho.

ill have a crack at making acircuit board some time in the next week and may also chuck the circuit into my simulating software to see how tweakable it is