JohnnyG

idch, id honestlly just go with a minimalist booster pedal. if you're willing to build it then there are many around that will literally run on 10uA (so a normal 9volt battery will last *mental calculation* just shy of 100 thousand hours i think) so changing batteries will hardlly be a problem

http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/fuzz/snippets.html

this is Tim Escobde(sp?)'s site. have a look at the cinnabar, the tytewadd or the syrupp for 3 boost circtuits that all have minimal current gain.

withoutgoing active if you want something stompable then you're going to have to go with a pot in a box like LK said

i think its to do with tube triode gain circuits having a higher output impedance (about 100k to 300k) and so a 1 Meg pot would be used so that it doesnt load the gain stage down.

personally for stomp boxes id go with a DS-1 and probablly a phaser if you;re after some of that EVHsound. tho youd probablly be better investing in a good amp for a decent distorion sound

for my studio i have an M-audio Omnistudio loaded into my fatty computer

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/omnistudio.html

for someone who wants a break out box that has onboard mic pre-amp and a high impedance input that you can plug a guitar straight into id recomend this. clearlly its alitle more expensive but but its solidand works well

one other thing that ill just add.if you'remicing an amp, then make sure you have a decent speaker cab. im having to sit around untill i can have the cash to build a new amp since with my Shure SM57 i just can't get a good sound out of my diddy little MG15

also for people looking to do alot of research

http://www.tweakheadz.com/index.html

i found this site a few days ago and it has loads of great info for making home studios including recomended setups for certain budgets and styles of music you want to make

i wasnt planning to use it for heavy routinging tho i suppose if im going to be using it to gut aluminium chassis etc then it would be worth dropping the extra to get a good one.

looking for them on places other than ebay they seem to start at around £50 for a dremel/bit set. so i may wait untill ive got me a job again before dropping the cash on it unless i find something very promising on ebay

cheers for the advice guys. espescially the mention of the flexible shaft from Dugz Ink, that would make some things a helluvalot easier so ill be nabbing one of them as well

ill see what mains powered versions they have on ebay but ill research more before i buy anything

thanks

Im looking into buying a dremel. im not planning to use it for any guitar inlays just yet tho clearlly thats a posability. main uses will be everything from grinding glass to make slides through to modding and hacking up computer cases.

on ebay there are alot of people selling these 60 piece dremel sets with recharger and everything for about £10 to £15 (20 to 30 USD roughlly)

for that price will i be getting a rubbish piece of kit that will crap out after a day or will i be ok? is there anything i should avoid or look for.

im asking here since i know that a fair few guys will use them and i wasnt able to find anything when i searched

thanks for any advice

JG

in a jiffy i can just chuck my guitarthrough either my boss OC-2 or my whammy to get an octave down but there are some things you need a bass for

ill see your two marsbars and raise it a crunchy

some people have all the luck. very nice deal i reckon tho i wouldnt be to hopeful on the fender front

i have been wanting a bass for a while just to start recording with. ill give you a tenner and a marsbar for it

amazing art work. im personally not so keen on the way the dragon looks but i can't knock the talent man.

impressive as always

there isn't really a right or wrong way to hook effects up. personally i much prefer the effect of a wah after a distortion pedal since putting it before hardly affects the sound to my ears. this may be just with my set up tho (Vox Reissue Wah with output buffer mod into a Boss DS-1)

ive been finding that putting a short slap back kind of delay at the begining of the chain to be good for glitchy skipping type sounds but thats clearlly an aquired taste. ordinarilly delay or reverb before distortion doesnt sound that great.

id just play around, my effects chain isnt really an ordinarry guitar players rig, 3 out of 6 pedals are pitch shifters of some sort

well there are acouple of things you could do. you could just take the tone control pot and capacitor straight out, just desolder it from the rest of the electronics.

however this will probablly change the sound and may sound too bright for you.

if you want to keep the tone the same then the first thing to do is find out the value of the tone pot (will either be 500k or 250k) and the value of the tone capacitor (im afraid im not too sure what these normally are so you'll have to look)

once you know that, desolder the tone pot connector from whatever it was connected to. take it and the capacitor on it out. then in its place solder a resistor and capacitor in series with each other. these should go between where the tone pot origionally was and ground. this will keep the tone the same but get rid of the pot.

im not too sure if thats as clearas i wanted it to be but hopefully you get the idea. just ask if you dont understand

hhhmm most interesting. my only thinking is that passive tone controls are unable to actually do a proper boost so in essence its more like attenuation of all frequencies with either more or less attenuation on the mids.

if i were doing a mid boost tone control personally id go active but thats just me.

i cantsee of anyreason why it wouldnt work, ill have a look at the site and the circuit in some more detail but hey if it does and its useful then who am i to argue?

ive done most of the stewart castledine mods on mine. couple of resistor changes, taken out the Q resistor thats in series with the inductor and put in a 100k pot thats connected to the ouside so i can play withdifferent Q values.

if i can find a SP5T rotarty switch then i may well out in the sweep range mod.

only other things i really need to do to it are true bypass the sucker and maybe change the inductor. inductors are a bit pricey mind you so thats a little way off lol

to do this you would need to get either a DPDT stomp switch and use the Millenium Bypass method (www.geofex.com and have a look around) or get a 3PDT and use that to do true bypass wih an LED.

soon as i get round to getting some good stomp switches im going to TB my Vox Reissue wah. its modded to hell but the true bypassing should have been the first thing i did lol

i wouldnt worry, i like tothink i know what im doing and i do some stupid things sometimes

like thetime i was getting annoyed about having a fuxx circuit that wasnt working, checked battery, checked jacks, checked that it was plugged into the right jack.....eventually checked to see if id put the transistors in the sockets *slaps head* it aint going ot make much noise if theres no active electronics lol

im finding that with stomp boxes i much prefer the designing that the building....but then im having to put my circuits on perfboard :S

want to get to building an amp because a) im a cheap mofo and it just gives more scope for having it looks the way you want it to

what i really need is a small slave boy to just build all the circuits i design

Lovekraft that is the coolest thing ive heard for along time. that will come in so useful.

just to check, which of the OT secondaries would you connect the headhpones to? id guess 16 ohm but not for any intelligent reason lol.

that will come in mighty useful when i get to building my P1

woot, i was useful

like lovekraft says, the more schematics and layouts you look at the more things you know without it having to be said.

its much like ground wires. you know they all have to go to the same point but the schemaic will just have the ground symbol instead

im planningto get down to building the ax84 P1 as soon as i have the cash and thats being done alloff the schematic. im making it on turret board and have already taken the time to draw up a layout for it.

tho im almost certain i couldnt have done that a yearago

two of the wires would most likelly be the heater connections. depending on the schematic it may show the pins on the tube diagram for the heater connections butthen some just assume that everybody knows tubes need heater connections lol

the other wire may well be the case connection for earthing the shell of the tube (if it has one, thats what pin 1 on my 6v6 datasheet is defined as)

hope thats all helpful. if you can point us to a schem then we can give you any more help you need

http://www.aikenamps.com/Bibliography.html

heres a list of books that Randall Aiken recomends and seeing as he knows his shiznit id wager that is probablly a good place to start.

im planning to get a couple of these as soon as i have the cash.

EDIT: Doh, sorry posted without reading your post properlly muppet i am

seeing as he's got well over 1000 positive feedback i think its safe to assume you could buy from him without any problems

nobody is saying the mods did a bad job, Ormsby has now told us what happened and since there hasnt been any childish posts from a certain person we can assume that he's been banned now

mods doing job as they can

so like drak said just forget about him. he's not worth the effort

yeah its getting kind of silly isnt it.

....hey, do you think that if you used the mojo dirt to relic the case a newlly made case you could pass it off as an origional rangemaster?!?

surelly the mojo in the dirt would make it sound amazing so noone would know it was new circuitry

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......i know how almost all of the effects i want work, id still buy them lol

tho granted id never ever spend that much on a range master. im happy with my home made one. cost me a grand total of...um now how much was it again...oh yeah, Zip. i love school

yeah its getting kind of silly isnt it.

....hey, do you think that if you used the mojo dirt to relic the case a newlly made case you could pass it off as an origional rangemaster?!?

surelly the mojo in the dirt would make it sound amazing so noone would know it was new circuitry

theres about half the stuff there i would love to buy from you even considering any shipping charges but i simply cant spend the cash.

sorry man

1, D

2, 5,3,1,1

3, B

4, I naturally ignore most advertising unless its amusing

5, A probablly tho i think it is important that they offer more than just the standard range of guitar stuff. so books of tabs/lessons/theory for example id say are pretty important.

6,

Like

they're friendlly

even tho im not a regular they're still happy to let me try their stuff.

Dislike

they have a POOR selection of pedals and amps. the highest quality amp they have in stock is a large 100 watt marshall (cant remember model, while since ive been) and after that there is nothing untill an MG100DFX

7,

so far i havnt been into any guitar shops that have annoyed me tho one thing i reckon would annoy me is if they were doing the pretentious musician act and pretending that i knew nothing.

8, its 50 - 50 for me really. online its easier to find what you want and its normally less cash but clearlly in a shop you can test it before you lay the money down.

hope thats helpful

JG