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you could probably do at least a 1-2 degree neck angle still by angling the body when you glue it to the neck.

looking good!

hopefully i will have better luck, i am crossing my fingers

that place is like heaven!

hmm, thanks for the info guys. i will try it out and let everyone know

got the neck routed for the truss rod, tapered, and cut to closer dimensions for when i route it in the shape of the tenon. still have to laser cut the template for the neck tenon though, but hopefully i can get that done by mid next week. heres the mock up so far with the body routed out more ready for the maple cap.

got the truss rod cavity routed, the neck taper cut, and the fingerboard tapered heres the side view of where the veneers i made in the headstock joint are. i cant wait to see them after i take a spokeshave to it. also in the picture is one of my socks.

I am looking to get some wood bindings, either from Stew Mac or LMI, however I can not find solid evidence that says whether or not I can bend the binding around the body of the guitar without cracking it. I do not own a wood bending set up, so that is out of the question. Even those two websites have vague details about non heated bending. Any input?

no specific reason, just a few things i considered. i wanted it louder when unplugged, and this will help a bit. i also wanted it lighter, and to have the option of two f holes if i chose. having the wood remain on the right side would have caused problems for the f hole by the controls.

lots done today: -decided to make one giant cavity instead of the 5. the body is completely routed now, ready for the neck pocket route which i still have to plan for -cut the taper into the fingerboard, still need to decide on an inlay and do that and then radius it -scarf joint has been cut, glued, and sanded flush ready for the fingerboard to be glued actually thats not so much, but progress is progress. id post more pictures, but its not really necessary.

I have an unradiused LMI fingerboard and I am wondering if I can cut the 1.7" to 2.25" taper from top to bottom before sanding a 12" radius into it?

hi there, sorry if my reply sounded bad, it's just that my english is not very good and sometimes it's hard to communicate like a polite person would do. in my case when mistakes happen I always start all over again, just because when I look at my instruments and they have something that went bad, I can't help but only see that bad spot. and that mistake will haunt you forever. so after my 2nd build I got into the "making everything right even if it means starting something again policy" that's one of the reasons you see some very nice guitars going to the Wall Of Doom. and so many others being left behind and not being finished. i can definitely understand. my policy is that if i mess something up and there is a solution to it, i will usually take that option if i am not compromising my intentions.

Cool, So you will have more like 3.75" body/ neck overlap at the upper, and 2.75" at the lower bout. That is plenty. Good luck with the build! Peace,Rich Looks like I will be fine after all. I almost had a melt down earlier though haha. PHEW! I guess its just more embarrassing that I even had to make this thread lol

Looks like it should join the body at the 19th fret at the cut away side and about the 17th at the left non cut away side, I am using a 24.75" scale

Mistakes happen. Like I said, I won't be losing the top fret, its just an option. In this case it wasn't from poor planning at all. Lets just say that cutting the scarf joint was no walk in the park on this build, and that the table saw decided to eat the end of the neck (again, freak accident) and I had to cut that portion off and cut the joint again. Thats not important though. Luckily I bought 36" of wood! I did learn quite a bit from my first build, and of course patience is the most important thing to have. If anything comes up (like this thread) I will post it on GF before I do anything so I can get experienced opinions.

WezV, what do you mean by CF? Is that some type of epoxy? Yeah, I probably should have slept on it and then reevaluated. Live and learnI guess

After taking some more measurements, it looks like I jumped the gun on this one. When things didnt seem right I just defaulted to the "I RUINED EVERYTHING" mode and posted my "problem" here. I should have more than 2" on the left and 1" on the cutaway side for the neck tenon. That measurement I gave was to the 18" mark, thats only wherethe fingerboard ends, however the fingerboard obviously extends onto the body for a few frets. All is well now

I suppose another option would be to cut off the first fret of the fingerboard, which would make it a 23.5" scale. Has anyone done something like this? I've played shorter scaled guitars before and like them a lot, but I never really thought about making one. I'm not saying that I will do that, its just an option I have now.

wes, you are correct, thats what i meant. i have a fretboard with a 24.75" scale. perhaps i could go with 21 frets instead of 22 so i could move the neck into the body. i am no guitar pro, im a rhythm player in fact, so that wouldnt matter to me at all. i wont have a problem with moving the bridge either, i left plenty of wood in the middle of the body to support the maple top. what i may do in addition to the above is put some ebony between the scarf joint. ive seen that done and i like the looks of it. i just want a deeper joint than 2" on one side and 1" on the other, that just seems too weak to me.

Wes, really? There is only about 2 inches on the left and 1 inch on the side of the single cut where the neck extends into the body. That just seems so short to me.

Bilious, the thicker part of the neck is not for the neck tenon, I cut it thinner just so I could cut the scarf joint, then I was going to get it exact and taper it.

Limited edition or not, I don't know who would pay for a guitar with a Sobe logo on it

So just when I thought I was making some headway on this guitar some events transpired and now my neck is too short (at least I think it is) to fit in to the neck cavity. My original plan was to do a deep set neck tenon, but now as it stands I will have a very short neck to body joint. The way I see it, I have 3 options: 1: Glue something onto the end of the neck blank to lengthen it. This will be tricky, but most likely doable. 2: Find some nice wood to put in between the scarf joint to lengthen the neck a bit. Maybe some ebony? 3: Start over. Don't want to. The thicker part of the neck is not for the neck tenon, I cut the part closer to the headstock a little thinner than where it would join the body just so I could cut the scarf joint, then I was going to cut it further down toward the heal and make it thinner where get it exact and taper it. Close up. Ignore the blue tape, thats just there to hold it in place to represent the scarf joint being glued as is. The guitar will have an 18" fingerboard, which is why I marked it there. HELP!

thanks! the fingerboard is from LMI

from curtis lumber in new york