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Wez, are you saying superglue soaks brilliantly or Titebond?

Really? It just seems to make more sense that you should mix the dust with the glue, but I will have to try that out. Thanks!

also, are there any alternatives to using fret tang nippers? On my first guitar I just used a dremel to grind down the tang so that the fret cap went over the binding, but it wasn't the best way to do it at all. It took forever, and it wasn't consistant. I had to redo many frets.

That is another reason why I am rethinking going with a Gibson binding. I love the way they play and think it looks great, but in the long run it may not be worth it. I'll have to sleep on it.

This is the stuff I am talking about: Inlay Filler

I just finished putting my pearl block inlays in an ebony fingerboard, however some of the inlays have a little extra room on the sides (the hole in the board is a little bigger than the inlay itself). How do you guys take care of that? I was thinking that I could make some dust with some left over fingerboard and mix it with Titebond and put it in the gaps, then radius the fingerboard? I know Stew Mac sells something for this, but is it really worth it? I plan on staining the board with ebony stain so it will be jet black.

I am completely stumped. I would love to do a Gibson style binding job on my guitar, but I am very skeptical that I will be able to do it well. My other option is to do a regular neck binding where the frets go over the binding. Help me with my debate!

jealous, brother. i started working on mine again. got some work done on the top and neck (scarfjoint and stuff)

also, longbaords are going strong. i bought trucks today and i have a couple boards ready to go

im jealous, i wish i had the tools here to make one over the summer, although i really wouldnt use it too much. once we get back to school im building infinity of them

body

Geo, did you get yours from LMI? One of my friends who is also on this board (shorterthanrich) also got a nearly identical cocobolo board from them too.

thanks for the compliments too! the shape is influenced from a fernandes vertigo, but way less radical with the curves.

today i got the fret work done and that saw worked like a charm. the frets are all in, filed flush with the board on the sides, and they have been filed on the sides to 45 degress, and rounded. i leveled them as well, but just quickly since they will get dinged up a bit as i work on the guitar more. once the guitar is almost done i will level, reshape, and buff them. i also got the neck shaped a bit more towards the body and headstock, and also shaped the heal. tomorrow i will probably do the side dots and more body shaping. rawk

if you wanted to have a switch that was on at both extremities but off in the centre postion (which is my favourite wiring for a killswitch), then you can't wire it like that, but it's fine to do it that way!

are you looking to do some Tom Morello style killswitching, or just to turn the output of your guitar off btw? that'd make a difference to what you bother with

i just want a straight forward killswitch, nothing fancy haha

don, what do you mean on/off/on cant be done? im not sure i follow. my plan for now is to use a on/on switch from stew mac with down being the guitar works, up being the signal is grounded/cut.

o wow, that does seem really simple to do! now all i have to do is find a better version of the PRS 5 ways rotary switch schematic and i'll be set. thanks!

don, thanks for the explaination, but i think its waaay over my head

maybe i will just buy a killswitch from stew mac and wire that in with the 5 way selector, but i am not too keen on custom wiring. i can follow schematics just fine, but if i wanted to do something in addition to the 5 way PRS wiring (ie the killswitch) im lost. does anyone know where i can find a better schematic than stew mac's or how i can wire the killswitch in?

Basically what I want to do is get the individual parts of this PRS wiring kit but instead of the 5 way 4pole switch by the 6 way 4 pole switch. If I wire everything per the specs of the wiring diagram but leave the 6th position with nothing attached would that act as a kill switch? If not, how could I do that?

I've ordered things through GC foolishly in the past too. You give them money and it basically doesn't ever come, and they hope you forget about it. If one out of every 20 customers forgets about an item they ordered and doesnt get a refund if it doesnt come in, GC makes profit. I havent heard one good story about GC to ever look back.

i went to home depot and found a saw identical to the sears one, it fits perfectly and worked like a charm!!! Thanks for the suggestion!

After work today I went to Guitar Center. Who would have thought that "getting back to me ASAP" meant one and a half weeks? They completely lied to me about contacting Marshall. I walk in and ask for a manager. I wait, and wait, and wait. Twenty minutes pass while I am being patient on the outside but ready to smash a guitar in someone's face if they look at me the wrong way. Clearly the manager must be busy. I decide to walk back to where the offices are and I find the manager behind his closed door, doing absolutely nothing. Fantastic, but now I have someone cornered. I explain the situation (for the 302nd time) to him and he tells me he knows nothing of it. Great communication, Mr. Assistant Manager that promised me to tell the manager who would be the one to do something about it. I calmly and politely tell him he has an ultimatum: give me a refund on the replacement plan, or get me the parts. Now things get ugly. His face immediately turns to an upset frown and he tells me neither are possible as if I were a child. I then tell him I am not insulting him, and he does not need to insult me. He backs off, back to regular tone. Then I ask him why this isn't covered under the $70 plan I bought. He tells me its for if a wire comes undone inside, not wear and tear, that sort of thing. Clearly there is a hole in his arguement, so I exploit it. I ask him why a wire would come undone, and he says from bring it places, using it, etc. My response was isn't using the amp in general covered, as in the casters failing? He realizes he talked himself into a hole, and starts to find Marshall's number and calls them. Reluctantly he tells me GC will pay for my casters and the inserts, but its not something they normally do. Before I left I made sure he actually talked to the Marshall people, and put the order into the system, just in case they "forget" again. I was told I would have the parts within two weeks. Unlikely.

After all that I will absolutely be going to GC all the time still, but not to buy things. I'll test them out there and then buy them online.

this just sounds like what Pc world does (in the uk) awfull service, salespeople who dont know what they are talking about, rude staff and corrupt managers..

Yeah, that sounds about right. Staff is usually incompetent more so than rude. It's basically a glorified used car dealership and really nothing more.

And wwwdotcomdotnet, as for giving GC an ultimatum. It honestly will likely not matter. They really don't care.

As I believe already suggested, your best bet is to get rid of those cheap casters and replace them with real metal ones. In the long run, it would be your best effort instead of toying with getting junk replaced that will likely break again anyway.

I'm not as concerned with the actual replacement casters as I am with being cheated. If I do get replacements I am going to sell them anyways and get nicer ones and drill them into the cab. This is strictly personal now, I feel cheated and I want to make sure GC pays up for its end of the deal

Its been a week and a half since I went in and they told me theyd get back to me asap about getting the parts. I guess 10+ days is asap to GC. Needless to say I will be going in today and giving them an ultimatum: give me a refund, or replace the parts. if neither of those happens, they can kiss thousands of dollars in future sales goodbye and i will be dealing with a smaller store and paying a slight premium from now on.

After work I'll have to stop at home depot and sears to check some saws out. thanks!

i dont have any special saws to do it. i was thinking that i could use a dremel? i'll have to stop by home depot today to see if they have any saws that wont cost too much

I used a 6 amp handheld belt sander and rasp to do most of the body shaping

any advice on the fingerboard slots? what were your ideas jmrentis?

im not really sure what that stripe is on the right of the maple top, im assuming it will sand out (it better!)

This is why I slot and radius my own boards, best of luck to you finding how to deepen the slots without harming anything. The build looks deadly though, you're doing complete justice to these choice woods!

Jon, my next guitar after these two will have boards that I slot. It doesnt seem difficult at all.

Thanks for the compliments, I really like the design, but the wood is really heavy! Its also a huge pain to work with the woods. Sanding and using a spokeshave is very tedious because of the woods' density.