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wwwdotcomdotnet

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Posts posted by wwwdotcomdotnet

  1. Looks cool! Do you know any place for tutorials regarding fx pedals?

    I use general guitar gadgets and tonepad primarily for the parts lists and schematics and i also use diystompboxes.com for the forums. a lot of sites have layouts of pedals and its a lot cheaper to buy the parts yourself rather than getting a kit.

  2. Nice! I like building pedals. It's fun and relaxing. Is that a Tonepad layout for the Tubescreamer? What size is that box that you crammed two 808s into?

    Yeah, that is the Tonepad layout. I've seen a few others that would have worked, but that one is by far the best. As for the enclosure, I got both from this website. They have really cheap 3pdt switches as well.

  3. My first two pedal builds. My friend James and I worked together on our own TS808 clones, so if he sees this thread he should post his too!

    #1: Mosfet Clean Boost

    Boosts signal from 3 to 35dB without adding any signal distortion. This was a fairly simple one to build. I call it the "Little Pink Boost Box." My girlfriend made it all cutsie with the hearts and lettering :D

    06.JPG

    Boost 2

    #2: TS808 Tube Screamer Clone

    This pedal is actually two TS808's in one case. When both are on at once there is so much awesome feedback. I also added two switches for each pedal within the pedal: one to boost the bass/low end, and another to increase distortion. Both were easy mods to add in. The pedal also has a PBR faceplate which I am pretty pumped about, and matching colored LEDs. Theres also a layer of acrylic sheet on the bottom that shines two more LEDs mounted inside.

    TS808 1

    TS808 2

    TS808 3

    TS808 5

    TS808 5

    My next few pedals will be a fuzz, delay, and trem.

  4. ...but the exact tremolo isn't something I'm really planning around. The build is already under way, and I am approaching the point where I will need the bridge/tailpiece unit soon.

    You realize that this is backwards right? Planning-wise the bridge should be the FIRST thing you decide on; its height determines whether or not you need a neck angle (and how much), and its string spacing determines (along with the nut spacing) the taper of your neck and whether you can use blade-type pickups or whether the strings will match up with polepieces.

    Bridge first...the rest follows.

    I am very aware of all of this. This will be my fourth guitar.

    When I said my build is under way I mean I have cut out the mahogany slabs and laser cut some templates for body routing. I wouldn't dare going much further without a bridge.

  5. Since you are in the planning stage, there is really no reason that you can't base the design on any tremolo. Be it a vintage trem, Floyd Rose, or Kahler. Since you have a blank piece of paper and wood, you can plan it in from the beginning.

    Right, but the exact tremolo isn't something I'm really planning around. I'm just weight out my options for surface mounted trems. The build is already under way, and I am approaching the point where I will need the bridge/tailpiece unit soon.

  6. It is indeed.

    And while mahogany - like most any wood - may well be more stable quartersawn, it's one of the most stable woods out there, and roughly equally strong in both directions, and IIRC tangential and radial shrinkage are pretty much identical. And do you really think most gibsons use quartered wood for the neck?

    Haha, good point. I'm just going to do it. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be screwed in the end but it sounds like I will be perfectly fine. Thanks everyone!

  7. I got these amazing boards of 8/4 mahogany today and can get pieces out of them that are 48"x1.75"x2.25" for through neck guitars and basses. I'd like to do one solid piece neck (with a scarf joint) and two solid mahogany body wings as well. Would this wood work for the necks? I would cut the piece down the middle (width wise) to get two neck blanks, however I am unsure if the way the grain is oriented would be structurally sound enough to support the string tension. The first picture shows the board and how I will get two necks from it. Imagine the fingerboard being glued right on top of the neck blanks as it is oriented in the first picture. Hopefully I am explaining this well enough :D

    Any help would be great :D

    wood1.JPG

    End grain 1

    End grain 2

  8. looks like they are selling for $2499USD at GC. i figured they would be much much more expensive than that. this is exciting because eventually other companies will start selling their guitars with automatic tuner options, and this will push innovation on the system and costs will come down with the competition and manufacturing quantity. soon schmoes like me will be able to afford something like that.

  9. oooooooooooo man. i just finished touching up some high frets and soldered everything up (ended up going with a typical gibson 2 tone 2 volume + 3 way switch instead of having two coil taps and a volume/tone w/ 3 way because my guitar is ~1.2 inches thick and the push pull pots are crazy tall).

    wowowowowow this thing sustains FOREVER and it sounds a little brighter than a typical guitar, which is nice for a change. ive been playing it through my friend's homebrew 18 watt 1974x for about 90 minutes now and i cant stop!

  10. its fairly uniform, i would liken it to a gibson sg neck profile. i definitely agree with you on improving though. every guitar i made i have learned something to improve on for the next guitar.

    its been a pretty good bday for me so far. my girlfriend bought me halo 3, i finished (sort of) a guitar, my parents got me a sweet camera but i have to wait until i go home at the end of the semester to get it (Olympus EVolt E510 for those camera people here), and to top it all off i received a job offer from my top pick company to work for when i graduate in may!

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