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I suppose I could do that, perhaps a Stew Mac order is in the near future any idea on how to cut pearl without buying the fancy saw?

Yeah, buy the fancy saw

haha i will be, but probably not from stew mac but from a hardware or wood working store

Jem, you're right, I did type in an alternative to the saw in general, not specifically the one from Stew Mac. Sorry about that

Maybe I wasn't as clear in my first post, but I was just wondering what some alternatives were to the Stew Mac saw, and where I could find them such as at a Home Depot, Lowes, or Rockler type of retail store.

shell is ordered! good call on that one, didnt even cross my mind. its definitely going to be tough to do though. im thinking ill just buy a fine point dremel bit and use plenty of epoxy and dust after its glued in. it wont look 100% still, but it should be better than where it is now

I don't feel like shelling out $20+ to stew mac for one. anyone have any luck at finding something at a hardware store?

I suppose I could do that, perhaps a Stew Mac order is in the near future any idea on how to cut pearl without buying the fancy saw?

matt, i was planning on staining it because some of the spots where the gaps were are somewhat visible if you are looking for them. i only sanded to 120 grit today, so maybe this weekend i will sand to 400 and see what it looks like. if its not too bad i definitely wont stain it, but i was thinking about it to cover the epoxy/dust since they are a slightly different shade than the rest of the board

phew, all that being said does anyone have any suggestions to fix the fingerboard up? I am thinking I should just go with it as is and fill the spot with glue and dust. I definitely would love to hear some advice, although I know most of it will be to start from scratch, or most forum veterans will avoid this altogether.

I sanded the radius into the fingerboard after gluing it to the neck and filling the gaps between the inlay and neck with epoxy and ebony dust. I still have to stain the board black and install the frets. The last two inlays didn't come out so great. Somehow they got sanded too thin and ended up cracking, the last one more so than the second to last one. I don't know how it happened, but the inlays I got from Stew Mac were on the thin side to begin with. Its not the end of the world and I can fill it with epoxy and dust, but it just really sucks that it happened and it won't be perfect. Right now its bugging me, but I'm not going to start over because of it. That just adds to the personality of it, and after all, it is a homemade guitar. I know right away that I will get attacked saying I should start over if its not perfect, and people will say that I did the same move on my first guitar. Unfortunately I do not have piles of money or free time to do that, and I am very proud of the work I've done thus far on this neck. This guitar is for me and me only, if it were for a customer (not that I'd ever be good enough to sell one) I obviously could never let that be on the guitar. Yeah it stinks that it isn't 100% flawless, but it won't effect how it plays, and I am far more concerned with how my guitars play than anything else.

fingerboard 2

fingerboard 3

I finally got the casters today. Persistance pays off. Still won't ever buy anything major from them though

woo! i got the gaps between the inlay and fingerboard filled with epoxy and ebony dust, and now its clamped to the neck drying overnight! im excited! i cant wait to sand the radius tomorrow, hopefully the filling worked out. i also did the binding before gluing the fingerboard to the neck. pictures tomorrow!

the stew mac clear epoxy worked like a charm! thanks for the advice everyone. the fingerboard is clamped to the neck now and drying overnight, so hopefully tomorrow i will have time to sand the radius in and check out how the filling came out. i am a little nervous of the binding in a few places though as it doesnt seem to be square against the fingerboard in a few places, but i suppose i could fill that with dust and epoxy too. im not really sure what happened, but it wasnt serious enough to scrap the whole fingerboard.

I've built a few amps, it's good times. You do have to be very careful. I have built a Fender 5E3 tweed deluxe which sounds great and was pretty simple (although the chassis design means it's a little cramped), a modified 18W (the "normal" channel became an EF86-based channel a little like a vox and the "vibrato" channel lost its vibrato and gained the plexi tone stack) which is more complicated and still needs a bit of tweaking with a 'scope but also sounds very good, and a Trainwreck Climax which sounds just fantastic but is also moderately complex.

There are literally bunches of companies which offer 18W kits, if you've never built an amp before a kit is a good way to go. A few of the places I know that sell 18W kits are www.ceriatone.com (who I have done business with and have been very happy with), www.gdsamps.com, www.bnamp.com, and www.tedweber.com (some of Ted Weber's kits are modified a fair bit from the original designs).

jnewman, maybe a kit is a good way to go. I will check into them. Thanks!

Geo, you are my hero! thats some motivating info/material! and if you dont mind could i see your schem? ill pm you

hmm. those amp kits they have on their retail site are enticing.

http://store.metroamp.com/index.php?cPath=44

i wonder how much i could put that parts list together for if i ordered everything myself individually?

I realize a lot of veteran members will be avoiding this topic because its been posted numerous times, but all I am really looking for is a physical picture of the wiring from anyone will to offer it.

that would be great, if you dont mind

I actually have two full sized routers. One is table mounted, and the other for free hand. Its really nice having the option of using one with a table, although owning both isnt entirely necessary. I would just go for the full sized one if you can, and you can often buy them in packages with a table. That would be your best bet

My friend and I want to build amps, specifically this one: Marshall 1974. We have both been doing plenty of research (well, mostly him so far haha), and both of us know our way around a soldering iron and circuit schematic pretty well, however this schematic is a bit over my head. I know there are a bunch of people here who have made amps before, could you guys offer some pictures of your amps, that is, the actually wiring? I want to see a schematic, and the actual build if you don't mind sharing because that would greatly help me put the theory to an image in my head. If you want your designs kept secret I completely understand too, but any advice you have to offer would be greatly appriciated. I know the parts I need, but now I just need a pep talk basically haha.

Thanks!

I was hoping to put it on my semi hollow in progress (see build#2 in my signature). I was planning on a sight neck angle. Hopefully that helps clear things up

this one: wilkinson roller bridge TOM

I am curious as to whether or not a hollowbody style tailpiece would work with a roller TOM bridge?

I want to make sure it will be ok since I have the roller bridge already and would rather use it than buying another one!

I just need to fill in the gaps with some epoxy and ebony dust, then I am ready to bind and radius.

thanks everyone! i ordered a tube set of the clear slow setting epoxy from stew mac. i figure i could use it for more applications rather than the black stuff. i have plenty of left over ebony to make the dust out of too, so i should be set

these would work, correct?

Stew Mac Epoxy