GoodWood

It begs a question I had about using dishes, as this seems to input a bit of stress on the guitar. I was thinking the other night about molding backs and tops with heat, like you do the sides, so they dont have that tension built in. On the top that cant be a good thing.

Well, you should tell him how to clean the surfaces so they will have a better job of still matching when he glues it back. It looks like a "good" split, the glue joingt failed, not the wood. Im thinking warm water, heat, and some type of scraper to prep the surfaces? Also, dont over clamp it. Or over glue it.

HEY its getting kind girly in here! :D

There is a learning curve with the blanket, its not an automatic thing. Burning can be an issue. Does anyone know if those router controllers would work with a hand drill? I have an old 2000 rpm drill, I would like to take it down to 600 to use for a strope motor.

If you leave a gap, you want the plate to have less stress or spring, so you sand it to radius. Kinkead, Cumpliano. I have no Idea if it would effect a chiladni pattern with nodes and all. Why would you not radius? This craft is all about 1/100's of an inch and perfect joints. The radius gap on a 25' /bridge plate would be about 2 mm. I also use thin flat gauges to test for a tight fit. Sanding to radius get me tighter than not sanding to radius.

Did you sand in the radius first? Use thin metal strips to give a gap from the braces, if you are going to leave a gap.

Lol, now I just need it in 70 " rolls! LOL Thats about the same price as you find elsewhere online. I suppose if it was thicker you could make swords out of it.

Hey, is that the steel that bends back into shape? Where do you get that stuff?

I just tested out the back kerf lining, and I took some kerf off with a little applied pressure. Looking at the side wood, it didnt seem to get any glue on them. Wow,- I guess I need to look for more squeeze out? Will I ruin the kerf that came off if I try to take the glue off? Im thinking just heat it with aluminium foil and an iron. This was dissapointing, I thought I was getting the hang of HHG. There seems to be little on the side wood that I can see...

What kind of wood for the lining?? Be that bass?

I buy blades by the gross. What size are you using? Normally I use 3/0 or 5/0. Most have rounded backs to make turning easier, but you should make sure that is the type you are using. Really as Mattia mentioned, a lot of it is in the wrist. As you get more used to cutting your blades will last a bit longer. Be sure you are in a comfortable position when sawing. Peace,Rich Have any of you ever considered scroll saw round blades? They cut in any direction, not sure if you can mount them in a jewelers saw, but you might be able to. Or use a scroll saw? Im not doing inlay, maybe torquois in epoxy though.

I just re-registered with a different name, now it works, my old name was blocked or something.

I think his angle is 10 degrees, you might want 15 if Im not mistaken. Im doing one neck that way basicly, but I ran out of wood, make sure its thick enough. Scarf joints are best done on the table saw if you go that way. Yea, Kinkead messed me up a bit, to be sure. He has his own way to do things, some are old (fashioned) But he makes great sounding guitars I hear.

Ok, I saw the regular forum for a minute, but the past 2 days its been down? Is anyone seeing the entire forum, etc... http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/

Uhm,. I had the exact same thing happen, I had to redo the mold and build in a 'bend'. I was about 2 inches popout. about the same as yours. Cut the difference into the blanket mold. I retried bending about 5X and it only helped to 1/2 an inch. You have to overbend them. Also looks like you went with Kinkeads mold design, did that also, but you have to do all the stuff-the holding blocks etc or its just a pain later on. to plane the sides, glue up etc. Im going with 3 inch plywood build next. Welcome to the learning cure. Im revoicing an old alvarez, thats a leaning experience also for top braces and how delicate the balance is. Very .... Good luck!

Yes I know that, and I didnt get an email. Is it the same forum? Is there a new addy?

I cant get in, its locked, no email from them. What is going on? Is there a fee charge now??

Yea, Im a bit worried about washing it in CA and then sanding, but I suppose ita a must do? CA is toxic when heated, it turns to cyanide-dyetholone or whatever if it gets too hot. So bending and everything should be done outside I guess??? How long does it take for the fume odor to go away???.

You gotta love the look of Zircote. It would be awsome if it didn't have that crack addiction. Peace,Rich Rich, are you using the 'martin' style cloth/glue for side braces to help stop the cracks? Do you use super soft for tight bends? Ive got some killer Zir I want to get to, it is not bookmatched, but it has really nice tap tone. Some of the stuff I got just sounds dead. But I suppose most of it sounds like that. Boingoingouingingngnnnngggggggwraaaa

We are going to get some MP3's off this one,right????

It depends on what kind of wood. Cedar, Engleman,Sitka,Euro Spruce, Adi, in that order of stiffness. I have Carpathian Spruce top thinned to about 1.08 with adi braces. (Shoudl have gone to 1.12) I have to redo some finger braces. This is for a 15.8 lower bout, 25.4 steel string. I may use light strings on it, but to my hands, it felt stiff, I just did little bit off the lower bout brace. I probably wont sand much off the lower bout, its pretty thin for a first build. I have also notice (I think) that the Sitka brace stock that I had was actually stiffer, but a bit heavier than the Adi brace stock, and darker in color. So the stuff out there can really vary on stiffness. The Englman I had you could feel the difference. I am going to set up a brace stiffness gauge soon, for the next guitar. YOu should be going by a book or by plans, and both are usually 'overbuilt' to some degree.

So you mean UPS left it, and someone took the package?.

I modeled mine on this design, with some modifications. I would screw the dowls into the side, incase you need to adjust them later. I had to take wood off the basic body design to compesate for springback. You can get .024 steel at any HVAC place, 10 bucks for 3 I use an on off switch with my heat blanket. Easier than the router dial thing, which takes forever to heat up the blanket. You have to be careful though, and use water to cool the wood down. ITs controlled insanity, use a practice piece first.

Fryovanni, do you do that with all that incredable MOP inlay you do? Don't you ever worry about tearout? Just looking at an old bad rosette, and it is way thin, thinner than 1/16 I bet.

It also bind top to guitar grasshopper... make guitar stronger. There is a guy selling german binding tool on ebay, you can get it for like $22.00 plus shipping.