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sbskates

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Posts posted by sbskates

  1. The reason I am wanting to use poplar is because its a good stable wood . I usually have used it on basses for paint . I am wanting to do this tele tv yellow or black so I dont really want to use a figured wood. I have glued a poplar panel up. I just think if I put it on top it will mute the pine. So i am thinking of using it on bottom. I know a pro luthier that said maybe use masonite on top and bottom as he does on his semi hollow danelectro types. Any thoughts?

  2. I have built a pine tele body. After milling it needs to be capped on top or bottom to gain some thickness back between 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. I have never been in this situation in a build. Here is my question I was thinking of capping it with poplar on the back to thicken the body up . Also I will be painting it. I figure the poplar on back will still let the pine resonate on top. any ideas here?

  3. I have put a clear coat on a dyed body and it is a dark dye cherry color so all the imperfections are showing. i let my lacquer cure for a few weeks after the final coat , usual process of several thincoats over long time etc. i wet sanded from 600 - 3000 grit. but you can still see my snading it didnt buff out. i have a buffer made for this and a felt buffer. any thoughts ? maybe i just need to wet sand more. havent had this happen before.

  4. I have built a sg that i have made a straight headstock on that is kinda gibson martin looking but more compact.

    the tuners ar 3 on a side and the first two tuners on each side are probably 10 mm or so closer to the nut than the traditional . i talked to a pro setup repair guy i use who said this is fine mechanically. anyon eever seen this done before i think it looks fine but we all are so use dto seeing the traditional spacing i just wonder if it just wont look right, any thoghts?

  5. sorry guys its the side , well the top corner in playing position. its merely a looks thing, i just had a brain hiccup etc when routing. the veneer suggestion would probably be good.

    one thing i thought of is the end of the fretboard does hang over the end of the neck. so i could put some maple under that so it would just cover it and make the neck pocket from teh top look longer.

  6. I have stained a sg body i built with a cherry finish. i need to darken the edges a bit because of the need to hide the sides were the mahogany and maple top meet. i plan on using lacquer as my finish coat as usual. i figure i will do that then after its well dry i will use a trans tint in my laqcuer. that wayi can sand it off if it dosent go right. any thoughts? should i use a dark brown? tint.

  7. I am doing an Sg project. Flame maple top on mahogany , the relative i am building for wanted it that reddish cherry color like heritage cherry Gibson does. I selected a trans tint dye that i felt was similar. I tested it on a large piece of lie wood. i am not liking the color. Can i remove it or most of it? and then go over it with a minwax stain or another dye tint? anyone done this?

  8. I have built a new neck for a build that has a mellow 12 degree angle. i would like to have the top end of the faceplate but up against the nut so it helps seat it.

    and i know i will need to level and take down the edge of the faceplate so it rest against the nut squarely. anyone don ethis before instead of having the faceplate rest under the edge of the fretboard and nut. thanks!!!

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