sbskates

i routed my neck pocket to 3/4", reason being because the bass is a t birrd. i guess i could cut out a perfectly milled to 1/8 thick wood plate in the pocket glue it down and my pocket will be the right depth. i dont see any reason this wont work. any thoughts?

i routed it deeper bcause i was going to rout the top down like t bird is so i have the raised center. then glue a raised center to the back. anyway i am using a hard tail bridge not TOM. so the only choices i see are using the plate to raise the neck up or lowerin the center section to the area around the bridge so i dont have too high a bridge.

my bridge needs to be lower because the fretboard touches the top of the bass body, instead of being raised up like on a p bass etc. cani route a lower area where the bridge will sit so it is correct?

i am buildinga SG has anyone used a bevel router bit to create the bevel edge on an sg?

i built a t bird. i will be making the raised center section etc. so fretboard rests on it, instead of raised liek a p bass.

so it seems i will need to have the area where the bridge sits lower so the action will be right. i plan on tapering the rasied center from neck end to to be lower and lower etc till its the height i need in the bridge area. any tips?

was having problems with neck pocket it was too tight. wasnt setting neck right. now its too loose any ideas?

i may glue in a micro shim of hard maple that seems to snug things up perfect. this should stay stable i think. any other ideas?

i dont have joiner so anytime i need something ran on a joiner i have to take it somewhere. sometimes its not joinable after i get it home and look, probably blades were off etc. and ,i dont like going back asking a redo on something that was a favor. i dont have a joiner yet but i have hand plane a router etc. table saw. i have thought of using a milled asa guide straight edge and using a flush cut pattern bit to prep the edges. i have also been told diablo and forrest blades cut so well i dont need a joiner.

i am going tobuy a joiner someday but what ways can i get around it for now by hand.

thanks

this maple has almost a balsa whiteness coloring to it , it also dosent seem as dense etc as all my other maples.

sad thing is i just figured it was what it was . also i sadly have glued my fretboard to it. anyone have any other ideas to see if its hard maple. anyone ever removed ,steamed a fretboard off a neck.

most of all the hard maple i get from the same place i have bought tons. i know all wood is diferent etc even though its the same type etc.. hard maple it usally has that slight hint ofa off white to it. this maple i bought was marked hard maple like it always is. its is really very white kinda like you see on some fender stuff that isnt tinted necks. anyway anoyne ever seen this. just wondering if somebody screwed up marking it.

i have been using my router with a pattern trim bit and a guide edge to cut things nice straight flush etc. i was thinking of doing this on my ebony fretboarded newly built neck . will it chip because ebony is so hard or will it be ok?

i want to darken a rosewood fretboard up , what can be used?

would a thunderbird bass body look wierd if the headstock was the same shap yet straight like a p bass and not angled?

i am making another t bird and i think i may replicate the gibson headstock yet i may make it straight like a p bass and not angled. i think it would be ok, what do you guys think?