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bluespresence

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Posts posted by bluespresence

  1. Nice maple! I love a good flamed acoustic B)

    From my inaccurate guesstimation using my monitor and measuring from the waist to the brace line the hole is centered BUT the fingerboard at the top is not centered which is pretty clear in your close up. I thought at first it was the angle (I take a LOT of guitar pics and cameras DO play funny tricks) but your close up appears to be straight on and the fingerboard is definitely favoring one side of the rosette.

    Anyhoo.....it's a killer looking guitar and if it plays as nice as it looks then you should be proud of it regardless of what we say! :D

    Welcome to the forum and let us know what you have cooking next.

    :D

  2. I do have some speakers (PA, floor monitors, guitar cabinets) available, if anyone is interested. Otherwise, those have got to go on eBay soon...moving them would suck too bad.

    Just a random thought....but don't you have to move them every time you have a gig? How is moving them to a new place going to "suck too bad" compared to that?

    Back to our regularly scheduled thread........

  3. It's funny because I consider Gretsch guitars the ultimate in cool...not like those geeky pointy metal guitars you see all over the place here. Gretsch guitars have real attitude.

    I'll have to agree there. I can only take so many strat, tele and pointy guitar clones.....Gretsch reeks of good old rock and roll when the guy playing it knew how to play and didn't need 14 full stacks and 43 pedals to make a song.

  4. Practice and (don't cringe - it worked for me) use Christmas songs to start. Something simple like Silent Night while strumming the chords slowly. I used this trick because nothing else worked and I wanted to make it happen. I was practicing sight reading to a Christmas carol book I have and just started singing along. I guess since the lyrics are burned in to my memory it worked because I didn't have to think about the words and I could concentrate on reading the music.

  5. Even if you mask the bindings the cehmical is going to leach under there and destroy the binding. If you want to save the binding I would suggest sanding only. If you want to remove the "f" hole binding (I don't know why you want to do that) use heat. I use a clothes iron with a damp rag. Lay the rag on the binding, apply the heat from the iron, let it sit for about 20-30 seconds and remove. You'll have to do that a few times until the binding adhesive loosens up and you can tug the binding free. Be careful with the heat so you don't burn the top or yourself.

    BTW...what brand if guitar is that?

  6. Nice Dan! I've seen that guy before and he does rip that thing up. The first time I watched it I didn't even realize it was a uke..... :D

    I was enjoyimg many of the other vid's over there too when I got a PM and came back to the reality of PG :D Now I'm going back to play!

  7. If I'm not mistaken, MOST (not sure if this applies to ALL) Teisco bridges don't have Studs. The bridge on mine doesnt. It just screws directly to the top of the guitar.

    I'll disagree with that. I've got 4 Teisco's here.....3 have studs (basically threaded rod) that the TOM slips on and is height adjusted by a threaded washer and one has a compensated saddle which is attached differently (plated mounted on a flexible bar).

    Now, correct me if I'm wrong but a TOM or TOM style bridge (like the ABR-1) is a bridge that has both individual saddle (or intonation) adjustments and height adjustment via the posts on the side of the bridge. See link:

    TOM

    If a bridge is solidly mounted to the guitar and is not height adjustable via the studs it is not a TOM. The ABR-1 you refer to IS a TOM (Gibson style) and is NOT screwed directly to the guitar but mounted on the adjustable studs as shown here:

    ABR-1

    There are many newer and more adjustable versions out there but a TOM is a TOM and is not screwed directly to the guitar. That would negate the whole purpose of the bridge in itself.

    Now, back to the original question.....you could just buy a TOM from Stew-Mac (or any Euro or Australian supplier - Perry/rhoads56 probably has them) and get it to fit and sit properly so you can adjust the intonation and action and make your guitar playable. The other option is eBay which often has original Teisco parts available. Check out the link I posted originally and find your guitar in the pics, then you will know what bridge it is supposed to have. When mounting the bridge please make sure you know the correct scale length of your guitar and mount the bridge in the proper location.

  8. IIRC the Teisco bridge has a different spacing than most TOM's out there. There was a discussion on this a while back and we discovered at least 3 different stud spacings between us on our different model Tiesco's. Check your post spacing and then check around to find a TOM that fits.

    Before you do that though check this site out:

    Teisco Twangers

    If you can't find it on there then it doesn't really exist.... :D

  9. Using a longer, smaller diameter bit will allow some flex and back your bit (and drill chuck) off of the edge of the pickup hole to prevent damage. The bits I use are 11-12" long. Do it slowly and carefully. The bit you show in the drawing is huge compared to the diameter you actually need to run a couple of pickup wires through.

  10. Assuming it is the fretboard that is "bent" or "humped" and not the neck that's a very typical issue even on newer acoustics. I bought a new Michael Kelly bass and it had that right from the factory....they did replace it. There have been several threads on this issue and it basically comes down to either levelling the frets to eliminate the buzz (if there is any), pulling the frets and levelling the fretboard (then re-fretting) or doing nothing at all if there is no buzz and the action is still at a height you can play the guitar without buzzing.

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