tkcrabby

Thanks Russ, You said ,"If you don't want to route off and replace the binding", well, no, I'd rather not replace if I didn't have to,,,,,, it would be my very first try at dealing with binding and I'd hate to take a chance on messing up one of my sons guitars.............. IF I did decide to TRY removing the binding and putting a new one on and it didn't work I guess I could try routing the edge of the body and doing away with the binding , I think he'd be ok with a rounded body on his Tele , it would make the guitar a little different,,,,,,,,,,,, I like the binding on a Tele and would hate to mess it up. What to do, what to do?

ANYBODY ! ? ! ?

Ok Guys, I've got a mess and I need some advice on how to move forward. My 12 year old son has a Peavey Tele ,, factory finish was gloss Black paint,,,,,,,,,,,, Ok, someone painted a black lacquer over top of the original and now it's got cracks all over the finish, top back , and sides,,,,,,,,,, I told him I'd refinish it for him (maybe a mistake) I figured I'd just use some chemical stripper on it and refinish it in a stain and then a wipe on poly over that,,,,,,,,, here's the problem,,, the top has a very nice white plastic binding on it and I'm sure the stripper wouldn't like it much so , what do I do now,,,,,,,,,I didn't stop to think about this before hand and have already promised him I'd do the refinish. If there's no good way to get the paint off of the body is there some good way of possibly filling the cracks in the finish and then sealing it and painting a solid paint on top again without any fear of the cracking coming back AND not damaging the binding. Thanks for any help Y'all can be!

I already know the "color" I want , but I was wanting to know the "best" type and or brand of stain to use in my case,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I want to end up with a blue that has a hint of Turquoise in it,,,,,,,,,, also Drak had mentioned needing to use a "bleach" in the side of the top which has some red in it since I'm using blue,, he said that IF I were using a brown or most other colors I;d be ok without the bleach BUT that it would show through the blue if I didn't bleach it in order to "match" the two sides of the top. I already have a couple of spray guns and he'd told me before that either should work BUT I wanted to know what type or brand of finish he uses and where he gets his from. I live in an area that I can't really get what I need but by mail order so, I wanted to find this out and order from where ever I needed to.

"Try PM'ing him, he might not be following this thread." I have BUT, no reply. I wonder if he's ok OR if he's just too busy to answer me?

Drak, Are you here?

Hey Drak ! Hey bro,,,, would you mind checking out post # 42 and tell me what you think ?

Well, I got the BM i21 today , I'm at "work" and like a Dumbo I didn't think to bring a guitar cord even though I knew I was having it delivered here AND I have a small combo amp in one of my lockers,,,,, so, I've been playing it "acoustically" for about a half an hour or so,,,,,,,,,, sounds ok acoustically,,,,, and IF the factory pick ups don't turn my crank then I'll drop a couple of SD's in there and see what it sounds like with some good pickups in it. The hardware and finish are fine, just needed a little polishing and it's nearly like new, it if extremely light weight, which I like very much (Cuz I have a little bit of back trouble from time to time.) I've read a fair amount of reviews for the cheaper imports tuners NOT being any good BUT these seem fine,,,, O' well, the tuner screws (center of each knob) each were a half to a whole turn loose so, I tightened those up and it stays in tune even when I "beat" the thing pretty hard. The color looked in the pictures like a RED , the back and sides of the body and neck are red BUT the top is more of a rusty shade of red, they call it "Cinnamon" and that's a good description of this shade. The top has a lot of flame BUT it is not nearly as three dimensional as my USA Made Brian Moore C-55 BUT then again, what can a guy expect? I mean really, I got this guitar for $230 shipped. At this point the only thing I wish was different on this guitar is that it was the "Turquoise" color they show on their web site as I have a thing for Blue guitars so, IF anyone here has a Turquoise Brian Moore i21 they'd want to trade even for a Cinnamon i21 let me know.

$230 US including the shipping cost.

instead of buying the rest of the supplies and parts you need see a guitar that you end up buying with the money for the project? Well, I'm guilty,,,,,,,,,,,,, here's what I bought,,,,, should get here next Monday,,, hopefully I can get back to gathering parts and supplies for my Tele Project by late the next week. It's a Brian Moore Chinese import but I can't afford a USA made one anymore............ http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/d0d4_1.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/cfe9_1.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/d1f8_1.jpg

Thanks Drak, Hey, would you mind checking out post # 42 and tell me what you think ?

Ok guys, I'm still getting my parts and supplies for this Tele build,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I have a question about what caps to get for the tone control if I use these stacked 4 wire humbucker pickups: http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...tepisetmvi.html I'm thinking I need these because of the fact that the p-ups are humbuckers,, right? http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...ordrtoca0f.html Even though the p-ups are single coil size I still need to use 500K pots for the vol & tone since the p-ups are humbuckers,,, right? Just want to make sure before I order anything else! I'm also planning to wire the Tele using this diagram which uses two (2) Humbuckers and a DPDT on/on mini switch to have the pickups parallel or series. http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/spr96.shtml

Southpa, That's exactly what I was going to do to a Tele that I'm building,,,,,, are you using .022uf caps and 500K pots for the vol and tone?

Thanks Drak, Yes, I already have a 1/4" air nozzle , what I need (and don't know what one to buy) is a filter to make sure the water is out of the air lines when I spray, till now I've only used the compressor to air up a tire or run an impact wench. The plastic hood on this thing may have to come off to put a filter on it but which one? This one ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Or this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Or what? Also, would this stain be good for the top? The reason I ask is that the "Peacock Blue" looks like it may get me fairly close to the shade of blue I want , especially if I mixed a little of their "Bright Blue" in with it, what do you think Drak? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...42996&ap=1) Edit: Seems the more I look the more messed up I get as far as figuring out where to buy my finish stuff from, is this please ok? Or do I need to buy from elsewhere? If so, where? http://www.lmii.com/Default.asp

Ok, so after I do the "belly cut" with a 40 grit flap disc, what grit do I need to use to get the body edges and rear ready for pore filling and then clear lacquer,,, 220 and then 400 wet (used dry) ? I still have a long while before any of this happens BUT I'm just wanting to get as complete a mental picture of the process as possible.

Would this filler work ok? http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/item_view....mp;itemNbr=9778

NO sir, I'll buy some from stew mac, I NEED your help. I'll go there in a few minutes and order some,,,, like I said , I'll be starting the belly cut right after Christmas and then hopfully the pore fill soon after that........... UPDATE: Just went to stew mac and they only show two fillers, both are water based,,,,,,,,,, http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...nd_putties.html

Ok Drak, So, once I get the "belly cut" done and sanded out to look like the rest of the back, and I'm ready to start the "pore filling" , you had said in another post that I really needed to protect the binding BEFORE starting the pore filling process,,, I've read elsewhere that maybe I need to tape the binding off with a "pin-striping" tape. Is this the case? I assume I should tape it with the pin striping tape and then use what?, maybe some regular masking tape to hold the brown paper to the topper? I just want to make sure before I started,,,,,,,,,, about the gravity feel gun,,,,,,,,,, I thought I'd read in a post that you made somewhere else on this forum that you liked the gravity feed type the best, no problem I'll just use my siphon gun. On the pore filler, is this something I can get at my local Lowe's or only from a place like stew mac and the such?

Drak, Is that the same body? The wood looks much lighter in the finished shot. Ok, I'm going to try to do this belly cut sometime not too long after Christmas,,,,,,,,,,, then what? Exactly what pore filler do I need and what other materials for the finishing of the back of the body? The reason I want to know is so I can get in my head exactly the order of each part of the process........... Will the gravity feed gun I bought be ok? It should be here Friday or if not then right after Christmas............

Picked this up today, hopefully it will be better for this project than the "siphon" spray gun I already had. A closer BUT out of focus shot. http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/e0d0_1.jpg

biliousfrog, Wow! Thanks, I would never have thought to have used a drill press for that project, I though about a band saw (BUT I don't have one) or a belt sander, which I could buy cheap enough. I have a bench top drill press so I think I could do that , of course I'll have to come up with a sure fire way of clamping the body down so I don't screw it up in the process.

One thing I forgot to mention,, I really want to do a "belly cut" on this,, the guy who did the body seemed to think I would be able to do it ,,, just needed to be sure to have it clamped down very securely and he said I needed to use a big wood rasp or file instead of a belt sander like I was thinking,,,, what do y'all think?

"If you want a truly authentic Telecaster sound, and not a hot-rodded rock-sounding Telecaster, you should really get an authentic Fender bridgeplate, there is a big difference in sound. If you're not, no big deal then, but there is a great deal of difference in sound between a Glendale/Fender bridge and those big heavy brass Gotoh jobs. The rest of it, buy it where you want, but a Telecaster's sound eminates from that bridgeplate, and the one you choose makes a difference." Thanks for all the replies guys,,,,, Drak, I have a bridge,,,,, two really, the first is an "All Parts" Fender copy, six saddle ash tray type , the second, and the one I plan on using is a Fender ash tray bridge that has been notched at the high E string side like a Danny Gatton Tele bridge, it has six saddle s well,,,, which is what I like. I'm not really lookin' for the "Tele" sound although I hope this one gets in the "neighborhood" of a Tele when I want it ,, what I'm really wanting is a very flexible Tele "shaped" guitar that I can cover as much ground as possible with,,,,,,,,, I play on the Worship Team at Church and we do very contemporary praise & Worship music so I never know what sort of guitar sounds I'll need till we practice just before a service. Hey, when are you going to reply to my other thread about this build telling me about the pore filling process of the sides and back on this Walnut body? Thanks again for helping me out!

I have a few more parts to buy for my Tele project and would like to buy them all from one place to cut down on shipping cost if at all possible, I need a control plate, jack cup, flat top knobs, pots (one vol and one push/pull for tone and splitting a humbucker) a 3 way switch, and a set of the GFS Tele humbuckers. ,,,,,, so how are the parts from there? http://store.guitarfetish.com/index.html

Would this be a better gun for me than what I already have? http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/catalo...products_id=131