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tkcrabby

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Everything posted by tkcrabby

  1. Here you go Drak, First is the back and as you requested, links to more pictures of the back . http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2354.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2357.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2346.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2347.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2344.jpg Here's a picture of my compresser and paint gun,,,,,,, the other links are orther shoots of them. http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2370.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2366.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2369.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2368.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2365.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2364.jpg
  2. Drak, I was just thinking,,,,,,,, and realized, I already posted a picture of the back,,,,,,,,,,,,,, so, what other pictures of the back do I need to take? Straight on like the original back shot OR from some other angle OR angles? I did notice when this body got here that as the builder said in the add, it's made of 4 pieces of Walnut,,,,, You could only see 2 in the picture of the back , meaning that I could only see 1 seam or joint,,,,,,so I thought that the other 2 seams or joints were done extra well,,,,, well , wrong, the body is made of 4 pieces like the builder said , problem is it's made of 4 thin pieces, 2 sandwiched on the upper bout side and 2 on the lower bout side. The lower bout seam looks very nearly like a single thickness of wood BUT on the upper bout side you can very easily see the seam or joint. I don't know what this will look like when the clear finish is on and the player (me) is looking down at the bodies edge , I think it won't bug me too much (I still wish it wasn't there though) BUT it may make to a little hard to sell IF I was to ever sell my very first build,,,,,,, you know what, I don't see me EVER selling it now that I think about it and when I die,,,,, and it's my son's , I really don't believe he'll ever sell it either.
  3. Thanks but I didn't build the body. I'm doing the back in a clear finish without any color and the Top is going to be trans blue,,,,,, there's a couple of links to pictures of guitars that are blue in the first post , I want something between the two blues. Yes, sir Drak,,,, I can hardly wait! Do you think this el' cheapo paint gun will work OR do I have to buy a better one right off the bat?
  4. "a grocery bag", Paper or plastic? Paper to cover the "topper" I'll take some pictures sometime Saturday and post them, can't till then, I just found out that I'll be here at work for another 24 shift,,,,,, I'm a Firefighter and we work some long hours. The fire station I'll be at today does have a computer that's online BUT the body is at home in the basement in it's shipping box.
  5. UPDATE: The body came late this afternoon,,,,,,,,,,,, it's nice but I see a few things I'll have to address,,,, first , the binding is ruff ,,,, looks like a lot of scratches from where it was sawed out of the bigger piece of plastic or something of the like. Then there's the neck joint,,, it's not exactly perfect,,,,,,,,, there are two small bumps just to the inside of the corners toward the center of the pocket where the butt end of the neck fits,, this makes for a small gap between the neck butt and the top of the body,,,,,,,, I think I can take care of it without any real problem by just taking my time with a small piece of sand paper BUT I want to make sure that the neck pocket is what I need to make fit the neck instead of making the neck fit the neck pocket. See picture below:
  6. "so are you spraying the finish from cans? or from jars? or brush? You won't need lacquer retarders if you're just spraying from cans." I don't know yet how I'm going to do the spraying,,,,,,,,, I do have a 30 gal air compressor and a el' cheapo gun that came with it along with a few other cheaper air tools............... but I've never used it or any air powered spray gun in the past,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the one guitar I've done the finish on in the past was by using a wipe-on ploy which was a satin finish, it turned out really well BUT I wanted a gloss on this one, and the top, well the top I really really want in a high gloss. About a pickguard or trim ring for the neck p-up,,,,,,,,, exactly what is the problem with NOT using a trim ring or pickguard on a Tele neck pickup? Isn't it the same hole as some rear routed strats have? If so, those p-ups are always mounted without a ring or p-guard,,,, right? One other thing to mention,,,,,,,, in answer to a question that was asked before by someone about the shading of the two halves of the quilt top,,,,,,,,,,,,,, NO they are NOT shaded the same, the upper bout side has more "color" than the lower bout side does as it (the lower bout) has more of a white coloration,,,,, what , do I bleach just the upper bout side? See picture below:
  7. Thanks for the replies guys,,,,,,,,,, I am really hopeful that I will be able to do this WITHOUT a pickguard OR a pickup ring, only time with tell I guess.
  8. Parts (hardware list) and supplies. Neck, Got one, a Mighty Mite birdseye maple Bridge, Got one, it's a 6 saddle ash tray type Fender notched on the 1 string side. saddles: Got them, 6 ,on new bridge Ferrules, need to buy Strap Buttons, Got them, Schaller locking Tuners, Got them: Schaller Locking chrome BUT I do need one washer, anyone have one? Nut: white plastic already on neck, pre-slotted Pickups, Need to buy, thinking about the GFS "Calibrated Telecaster Pickup Set "Modern Vintage" Lil Puncher" Pots Need to buy Knobs, Need to buy, want flat top w/ set screw Lever Switch Need to buy Neckplate Need to buy, I think I want Fender "F" model Pickguard Don't really want one IF I can get away without it BUT if I have to have one it'll be modded from the norm and made as small as possible so as not to hide any more of the Quilt than I have to. Control Plate Got it Supplies: Pore Filler, Need to buy Anilyne Dyes, Need to buy Lacquer, Need to buy Lacquer Thinner (gallon) / Retarder (pint), need to buy Shielding tape or paint, it's in the body already, so I've been told. Sanding block, I have a couple of them sandpaper, I have some but not the correct type, no wet/dry, Need to buy Buffer System?, If you're talking a bench-top model I'll need to buy Polishing Compound, Need to buy Swirl Remover, Need to buy Tru-Oil? I have none, do I need it? Tape, I have masking and painters tape BUT no Pin-stripping tape as of yet Scraper, Nope Scrap Pieces of figured maple, Nope, and I don't have anywhere around here to get any Rattle-can of clear gloss for test scraps, Need to buy Sanding Sealer (optional), Need to buy I guess Glass jars (for spraying if you're spraying), Need to get some together Tools Soldering Iron Check Solder Check Flux Check Drill Check Stew-Mac Buffing Pads? Nope Abralon Pads? Nope Micromesh sanding pack? Nope If you plan on shooting the finish, where do you live? Western Ky. Will you be shooting outdoors? Most likely, so I'll have to wait for a "nice day" if I do this in the Winter, they do happen so it's very possible. If so, do you live somewhere where you can do that in the winter? (Hawaii perhaps, Arizona maybe?) I like where I live BUT that would be nice.
  9. Done, thanks Drak!!!!!! Here's a link to the new thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...t=0#entry304084
  10. Here we go,,,,, I've bought this Tele body (I'll get it tomorrow) it is made of Walnut and has a Quilted Maple top with white plastic binding on the edge of the top. I was told by the builder that it has a lite coat of sanding sealer on it. Here's a picture: http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/4d90_3.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/53fb_3.jpg I want to finish the top in a trans blue, sort of mix of a regular old blue with a little Turquoise in it and finished in a high gloss, sort of a cross between this (thanks Drak), http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/142.jpg and this, http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/hammer3.jpg And I want the quilt to POP out at you as much as possible on this Quilt top,,,,,,,,,,,, and as far as the rest,,,,,, on the back and edges of the body I want to just finish it in a natural clear gloss. AND of course, I don't want to damage the binding in any way what so ever........................ I've done one refinish BUT it was a natural satin wipe-on poly on a Mahogany body with Flame Koa top rear routed Warmoth Strat, it turned out very nice BUT this is another thing all together. Thanks for any help!
  11. "I see you've found my other home" Yes sir Drak, As you see from my post, I'm trying to get more info on exactly how to do this start to finish BUT especially with regard to protecting the binding through the process................... Care to tell me more about this process,,,, Drak?
  12. "did you build that one?" Nope, never built one, I'd like to some day but this is really going to be my second build, the first was a refinish of a Warmoth Koa topped Strat, it was a trans white (Mary Kay) and it had a fair amount of flame in the Koa so, I striped it and did a clear wipe on satin poly finish, this one is going to be high gloss trans blue at least on the top, now the back with be clear BUT may be wipe on poly or high gloss as I have a air compressor now and a spray gun as well,,,,,,,,,,,, I know I'll need to practice a bit too before doing this though............... I've read about the black stain first and sanding it back , then stain with the blue and what, sand it back a little and then what another round of stain and then the gloss? So, anyways , the body is on the way to me as I type, should be here tomorrow. Because of this I really can't say if the sides are even in shading or not,,,,,,,, one fellow told me that it's best to start out with as white maple as possible when using blue, that it would not have mattered as much IF I was going with a red, orange, yellow , brown, or just about any other color except blue so, he said something about the bleach being a 2 part or something. He said that only the highest end maple was white without bleaching. I am 100% interested in someone here telling me exactly how to do this job from beginning to end IF a guy didn't mind helping out a greenhorn........... I read somewhere online that one way of protecting the binding was to just buy some pin-stripping tape from a auto supply store and that this would take care of the possibility of stain OR filler OR bleach damaging the binding.
  13. Ok, This is my first post here,,,,,,,,,,,, anyways, I have a Tele body made of Walnut with a Quilted Maple top and the top is bound with white plastic,,,,,,,,,,,,, I want to finish the body edges and back in a clear gloss and the top with a trans blue stain and gloss on top,,,,,,,,,,,,, I've been told that I need to Pore fill the edges and back and that I need to bleach the quilted maple before I stain it ,,,,,,,,,,,,, I've been told that I need to protect the binding at all cost and was able to find out that I need to tape the binding off with some vinyl pin stripping tape,,,,,, is this ALL I need to do in order to protect the binding OR is there more to it? I don't want to end up with an expensive paper weight, I wan to end up with a VERY nice Telecaster type of guitar. Here's a picture of the body.
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