Rodney

I got a few necks from Doug and i'll definetly be getting more. The necks are fantastic and he worked in every nitpick detail i wanted!

Good replies again gentlemen. Let me toss a few ideas in the mix and play devils advocate a bit.

Since there's some disagreement with Southpa's suggestion on splines sighting the break of the glue joint, wouldn't a backstrap be doing technically the same thing since you would be routing into the new joint?

Also, with the largest chipout being on the side where the backstrap wouldn't reach, do you think the relatively small area in the center of the neck where the backstrap starts would offer enough compensation? The backstrap can't be too deep as it's a slim neck.

Here's an approach i haven't seen on the forum, what do you guys think of it?

http://www.caramedia.com/guitars/gretsch.asp

Good stuff guys.

Good notes guys. i'll fill in a bit of info for you. The reason i'm not showing the whole guitar is I want the reveal to be a suprise on completion and i'm doing in process.

1. The guitar is mine, not for a customer.

2. It's a neck through and not a cheap one by any stretch.

3. It will be refinished completely. I had thought about doing just the neck and blending, but the electronics layout will be modified as well so she's gonna get the full treatment.

4. The crack isn't a worry. The previous owner left the rod as is when it broke. It's been at mid tension for quite a while and hasn't spread. Also the crack doesn't go through to the truss rod cavity. It's less than an eigth deep and looks worse in the pic than it is.

I've already set up how I want to do this, but thought it might be fun to open it up to my esteemed peers of the forum.

What we have is a broken headstock from a mahogany neck with no scarf joint. Here's the patient.

The one advantage is that the head has a pretty thick faceplate veneer that remained intact giving a front face to the break. It also lets the neck slide into the headstock like a pen top.

The downside is there's some chipout at the break line.

So, any thoughts or opinions. I'd be interested to hear how you guys would take it on as i'm always impressed by the number of smart solutions i see on the forum.

Have at it!

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna be doing a black burst, so the color coat is what i'm most concerned about.

are you talking about rustins plastic coating? - it doesnt need a primer

What about color coats.

I was wondering what paints / primers people who have used rustins have had good compatability with. Any help is appreciated.

I've posted this over at the Bare Knuckle Forum for you.

If you would consider shipping to England, there may well be a bit of a market here as at that price, they work out at about £125 whereas they're £210 at the BKP shop (if they're covered anyway)

Thank you sir, much appreciated

Amazing pickups. Got 2 sets for when I was getting a custom built, the second guitar never happened.

Bought as a calibrated set from Bare Knuckle Steve Stevens Rebel Yell Set - Bare Knuckle Pickups - Pickups - LuxxTone

Paid 330.00. they are in excellent shape, includes the box. 6 string set.

Looking for 250.00 shipped.

I don't get to hang here as often as I'd like, but I remember him and his always helpful and insightfull comments.

All my best to the familiy n they're time of grief.

God Bless.

Mahogany doesn't stain as well as maple. It would be easier to use a yellow toner to even her up.

Excellent Mike. Really nice work. Congrats

Very nice! How long till she's setup and ready to play?

Very cool. Definetly alot more process than what I'm used to. How are you gonna finish her? Rattle can or do you have a spray setup?

Glad to be of service, but the hard part was on you!

Tape, huh? Back in the day we did it and used the high part of the lip as a feel guide for the fingers and the rag.

Suprisingly a binding was rarely ever ruined. When I would train people it seemed like the tape made them over confident and they would bear down on the edge more than they should and the stain would soak under. Plus it added alot of time to the prep. Gotta get those numbers!!

Looks like you had no such problem, and Myka's stuf is amazing so as the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat.

So you sand and scrape? Fill me in on the scrape if you don't mind, I'm always interested in other people's techniques.

again, really nice, you should be proud.

Very nice!!! Well done! Gonna do the natural binding?

This ones gonna be a killer

Nope, but I wouldnt try. I'd actually pretty much never even think about it because of the top-coat under coat issue. You should never put a harder coat over a softer coat. It's a good way to get the top coat to crack, peel and chip. If I were you, I'd stick with poly through the whole process. Dupli-Color is junk compared to poly, and if you can spray it, by all means go for it!!

Thanks for the tip. I can't spray poly right now and would be using the minwax spray can.

If I could be using a 2 part and a booth, I sure as hell wouldn't be using duplicolor!

Has anyone used duplicolor with a poly topcoat? I'm wondering about compatability.

I was considering using metalcast as a transcoat and minwax poly for a top.

With that big spash of contact info, you'd have thought I would have heard back from him by now!!

It's a bit nebulous, but I would say with 90% confidence that the luthiers in Mexico that have had a on again off again relationship with BCR in Mexico are doing the basic building.

I have it on good authority that the guys who were doing Bernie JR's work and were the finish shop for BCR until recently are doing the finish work in Socal.

It is definetly being contracted out. I've heard rumours that it's more than one shop as well.

They do the handmades now, but the feel and specs are very different.

The quality is shady to say the least these days. Sad.

The guitar is one of the original NJ series from the early eighties. They only used the BC Rico logo for a short time.

They switched logos and went to bolt on not long after that.

The japaneese series was the best built. I've owned a few and they all were of solid quality.

Congrats, nice axe

Very cool.  Much darker than mine turned out.

I'll try again on another guitar in a month or so.

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Mike- Looking nice, man! rich and smokey

Grindell- yours actually looks pretty much like the artist series amber. Same idea, just a lighter base coat. Looks good.

i thin k its sold, I emailed him the day he listed it and haven't received a response

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It's actually still availalbe. I'll work on those pics for ya.

Sorry, Scott. Didn't mean to ignore ya! I forgot to update my email adress and never got your mail.

Drop me a line and we'll talk.

Did you get anything finished with the stain? I'd really like to see how it went.

I can't believe it's december either! Man, this year flew!!