Rodney

Okay pics FINALLY available at - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2227560

Thanks for the interest and such, drop me a line with anymore questions.

I have way too many pet projects and have to cut one loose.

I have a 90-91 era bc rich bich 6 string that needs to be redone.

The specs:

Neck through

Mahogany body and neck

3 on a side headstock with rosewood veneer

Color coated black finish (no clear)

Black hardware

Kahler pro trem

grover imperial tuners

Drilled for full active package

Rosewood fingerboard

dot inlays

Hardshell case

It's only color coated so it could be changed to whatever you like without too much effort. It doesn't include the active package (missing when I got it) so you can either purchase it, just put in the switches, or fill it.

The harware is used and shows some wear but not horrible.

I strung it up and played it when I got it and it played really well.

I may have a pickup or 2 I could throw in if I come across them, but as of now it's a no electronics deal.

It is a neck through american made and is in good shape, no damage, etc.

If someone wants to do a nice finish and get it assembled it could be a really nice looking guitar that plays well, or a nice ebay piece, I just don't have time.

If someones seriously interested, i'll try to get some pics to them, but it's pretty much as described, and the case is in good shape as well with no major tears in the shell, etc.

I'm thinking around 400.00, but I may be open to discussion.

Happy Holidays Guys!!

PM me a list and I'll check it out.

I have a new condition gold kahler bass trem I'm not gonna use. If anyone has something from my list or close to it to trade, let's work somethng out.

I need:

Finished neck through blank (carvin, etc) Guitar or bass

alder blanks

I'll consider other woods in body blank size as well.

Thanks!

of course he is...where have you been?

Well It would Look like I was Up North With my Head Up my a$$

I tried to tell you that several weeks ago.

Well Like I said I had my Head Up my A$$

I have To say that It's Cool Haveing You Hear Rodney man!!

!!METAL MATT!!

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Thanks Matt! I'ts kinda funny since I was kidding you about the V being Rodney inspired and you agreed. I wonder what you thought I was talking about!!

As far as the fleck paint, I used it on a desk several years ago and didn't care for it. It looks like that Jackson earlier in the thread turned out really nice, but I agree that it's REALLY soft and not fun to deal with. From what I remember it felt pretty

brutal to the touch too so I can't see It working out for long thrashing out sessions!

That's a gorgeous top- congrats

It's definetly interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

I have 5 projects with various textured ideas waiting in line.

Man, I'm gonna have to farm some of this stuff out!

That's pretty interesting, Wes. I wouldn't have thought of it.

Have you done one yourself that way? My only concern would be (especialy with black) is that since the look of the texture relies alot on the peaks and valleys geting hit at different angles by light, that leveling it with the top coat would cut down on the texture visibility.

Any thoughts?

Ok I've been looking for The hammerite textured finish stuff And I cant realy find Much, what I have found Is Not good! I've read sofar that It's not any good On wood, it chips realy easy, and It's pricey

Ok so Is There A finish out the That Can give Me a black asphalt textured look

or Something That will do The black Hammerd textured metal look That will work well With wood?

!!METAL MATT!!

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If the paint you want to use doesn't offer good adhesion to wood, get a compatable base coat to cover the guitar with then do the color over that.

I don't know much about the hammered paint your working with, but most textured paint doeasn't do well with allot of coats. Doing maybe a good poly coat over the guitar, sand, then do your textured color. It would give you a buffer between the wood and the color coat and make a thicker finish that could stand up to a bit more.

Just make sure you base coat and the hammered paint work together and you should be good to go.

Hope that helps some

Well Ya   It's a Neal Moser inspired, That's "INSPIRED" design

But It's Very different! It's Apples and Oranges

!!METAL MATT!!

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Actually, it's Rodney inspired! Go for the textured stuff Matt, It'll take it up a notch. Have fun.

Lookin good ,Wes

My compliments. REALLY nice work.

Doin good thanks- in either case, nice work

I like the first one better........I could be biased though

so pictures will be start coming in tomorrow and my template layouts are almost done, anybody care to guess what im building before i unveil it?

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Widow?

Since you like the black and white theme, how about white stain with a slim countoured black burst?

not an ignitor, but i do plan on building one of them in the future, i just have to get a full body tracing for it!

*whoo almost gave that away!

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HAHA! I'll keep my other guesses to myself then! Good luck.

so im starting a new neck thru this week (this will be my first from scratch neck thru, i have used carvin necks in the past) and im not going to be giving much away on this one, pics will tell with time, anyway the specs are going to be as follows (w/*pending)

25 1/2" maple neck thru

24 fret ebony board

mohagany wings

quilted maple top with matching headstock veneer

*ebony or abalone stringers*(depends on how big the maple top is)

black hardware

floyd rose

*pickups still pending, but bill lawrence x500lr in bridge and dimarzio evolution in neck with full active electronics*

*transparent blueburst finish* (not sure if i want black, purple, red or green either though.)

i will start making plexi templates for everything later this week, wood should be in by fridayish (thank you soooo much again rich!), i *should* be making sawdust my next monday, but i want to be extremly carefull with this one, it will be awesome, rest assured old school bc rich design that we see sometimes, but not very often (and no its not a stealth)

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Sounds nice. I'm gonna guess Ignitor?

Well Ran in to some troble today on the purpleheart-V There's A gap on the glue line where the purpleheart on the wing meet's the Lace wood So now I think Im going to Have To change my RR-V tapered edge idea and Go with a even beveld edge all the way round and Hopefully this Will get rid Of the gap top and botom

I do have a qustion! I know It's been done On the forum But I cant find it 

How Is this type Of a jack recess done? and Help would be cool Im planing On trying this On the back of the lower wing

http://www.ibanez.com/guitars/guitar.asp?model=SA160QM&z=y

Hey Matt, is that where you get your zircote? Do you know what the thickness of his fretboards is? I looked through it again recently and some some very nice flamed and quilted maple. I will be doing a quilted maple top on my purpleheart body.

How thick should I go for a top? It will most likely be a jem style guitar, I know everyone has done one, so now I have to do mine.

Thats' the same way i did the jack on my bastard V. It works great. I can't imagine a V without it! Nice work

!!METAL MATT!!

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1. With the sand back method, do you prep the wood to 320 grit, or is 220 ok, since you're sanding it again after the first dye application anyway?

2. Will a water-based sanding sealer interact too much with the dye? I'm hoping to use KTM-9 for the clearcoat. Would it be safer to use a clear epoxy sealer/grain filler, i.e. System 3 Epoxy?

1. I've sanded to a final of 220 and all the way to 4000 ( ), to be honest, I don't think it matters that much between 220 and 320.

2. It probably will interact some, just try to get your first coats a little dry, but nothing extreme where you might screw something up.

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I would add (and this is in the case of alcohol based stains especially) that sanding to well can cause problems. If the 220 you use is old or you really go nuts with 320 it can cause spots that are almost buffed in appearance. They get a gloss and will prevent the stain from sinking in.

I used to have the problem alot near the end of the day that the sanders hadn't changed thier paper and the tops were so glossy I had to wet them down to get the stain to adhere.

I'm looking forward to seeing your finish. I always liked the brown mixture colors.

Hello back atcha (and a PM) If I see Metal matt I'll drop him a line.

Your dead on about the black again. The only stains i've ever used a black base on were obvious - black cherry and grey black and deep blues.

You may be right, Drak. Sometimes a very light toner pass may be sprayed to make the color "pop". It could also be a photoshop effect to maintain the color integrity. All of the photos are done in house so it could be shaded to be more accurate to what it looks like in person.

Technically, i believe that finish is Tiger eye, not tortoise shell.

To get tiger eye, you do dark brown, sand out, Brown again in a lighter pass,

Then a top coat of yellow.

For the real tortoise shell,do the brown, sand out. Then do a diluted brown pass.Then do a pass of red, then scrub it out with alcohol. top it off with yellow.

This gives you the 3 shades in real tortoise shell.

Be carefull when scrubbing out with the alcohol. If you overdo it you can bleed through into the binding giving the dreaded "celery stalk effect".

Good Luck

man, what's on that 2nd one? Burl? that burst is electric looking!

Really nice work! Now that you've had it a while do you find that the acrylic scratches easily? I considered trying something similar, but the acrylic mirrors i've seen are usually prone to scratching.

Thanks again guys. Optimally I would be using auto poly, etc. But my booth etc are shut down for now and I ned to just complete a few projects quick and dirty in less than optimal circumstances.

I'm trying to find a dealer locally for HOK and will look into the duplicolor. I may give the deft a shot since blues obviously did a good job with little time invested.

I'm amazed you could rub it out so soon. I used the reranch stuff before which is pretty close in composition and it still scratched really easily after 2 weeks.

At least I have the advantage of being in southern California and the days are warming up!

Litchfield- you don't mean you went from primer to polish in 4 days do you?!!! that's nuts without being catalized!