Rodney

Yea- the standard 6 string model works fine. I lost my bar once and the replacement was taken from a guitar version. Glad I cuold help

Not sure of the exact thread size, but the standard pro arm fit's it. Hope that helps

Oh come on now!! It''s ain't a body cutting competition! It's all about the finish

What the hell...............I'm in!!! Sounds like fun

Thank you very much,

I looked at web site, very nice work! I've been once again humbled by the master. It will be a little while before I get to this point but will CERTAINLY let you know how it turns out.

Ace, check out the avatar (or what ever that little pic on the left of the post looks like) .... BIG GRIN

Your certainly welcome That's what the forums about right? Thanks for taking a look at the site and the compliments are appreciated. Stop in on our forum as well if you have time. Always open to talking guitar stuff!

Sounds great. When i was at PRS we did a limited number of semi hollows with redwood and cedar tops. Both sounded really nice. My favorite was the burled stuff. So much intricate detail you can look at it for hours

It's a nice design- well done. If your not experienced with inlay i wouldn't make this your next piece. I do alot of inlay and I wouldn't look forward to something that complex!

But then again if you have the patience for along job and the desire, great things can happen

Yea- im gettin better with the bandsaw thing

I usually prefer alcohol based stain as it seems to stick in the grain better and has more vibrant color.

I wouldn't use laquer during any stage of staining. The whole point of multiple colors is to get them to blend and create a mid point. I think sealing a layer would only make it more difficult.

To get the exact color, if you choose to sand it out instead of scrubbing the top with alcohol or water, you will need to restain the brown a bit. Take about a 50% mix of your original brown and make a pass to add some brown back into the main part of the curl, then do the yellow. Then you can add light diluted wash coats to get the exact shade you want.

Good luck and i can't wait to see how you do

The biggest risk is that your fingers will leave uneven grooves that will show up as a wavy finish or even cause you to burn through a coat or 2. You can get much better results with the eraser suggestion, or just get a soft sanding block or sanding sponge and wrap the appropriate paper around it. It will adjust to your surface while still giving uniform pressure and sanding surface.

Good luck

Los Angeles, Musician, designer/ builder, Annoyance to my neighbors

They are called ferrules, you can get them most supply houses, stewmac, warmoth, even carvin carries them

Glad to be of service. Staining is definetly my bag baby

Hmmmm. I'm working on something new. Maybe ill have to get it in gear and get it finished in time

If you were going for colored mahogany i would use toner, or stain it and then add a light toner. Mahogany doesn't stain very well and the dark color makes it hard to get a accurate shade of most stains.

Leaving it clear is sweet- i agree!

@ ways- Stain your top with a brown dye. Now either scrub it with a rag using water or alcohol, depending on the stains base, or sand it with 220 till the color is only left in the curl. Then go over it with a pass of yellow and Voila!

Hehehe- i know what it's like being in that position! I do refinishing for alot of old riches. If i see one or get word i'll keep you in mid. I have on here now, but it's a 6 string. I'm sure i'll spot one eventually.Good luck with the hunt

MCS is moser custom shop. We are a guitar company in Los Angeles.You can find out more at our site:

www.mosercustomshop.com

and our forum:

www.acidpit.org/mcs

Thanks for the interest

Thanks I imagine it will be on par with the rest of the evolution series. I don't do much in the way of pricing. I just worry about doing obnoxious stuff

PS- if you want to help overcome the "breakage" issue several have warned about, make a multilaminate body.using more than one piece of wood will interrupt the grain pattern and a good glue joint is stronger than the wood is so it can really give a extra bit of solidity to the weaker pieces of the design.

Why thank you sir- much appreciated. Drop in on the forum, we always like having guys who are into that kinda thing, and even those who aren't and like to just talk guitar

www.acidpit.org/mcs

If your looking for the place to get one with the "original" feel stop in on our shop. Neal Moser is the inventor of the bich 10 string. We have the original hand builders from the late 70's early 80's shop that made all those old school 10's your into. Neal also developed that preamp package that you see on those models and the real version is only available through him. BCR doesn't have then anymore.

You can check us out at www.mosercustomshop.com

Hey GF- it's RSM from the MCS forum. I can definetly help you through some of those cuts as im sure you've seen what we do with our stuff!

If you can get acess to a spindle sander it is absolutely invaluable to these kind of designs. Makes life much easier. Also you may want to consider cutting some of the inside tight corners before gluing the body sides on. One the other body side and neck are in place it can be difficult to manuever.

Good luck