Rick500

Another area where a thicker template makes things easy.

+1 on Carvin. Good stuff. (Disclaimer: I'm a mod on their online forums...but I say good things about them only because I've loved their products for the 15 years I've played them.)

Last two necks I built were in these orientations: ///=\\\ , ///||\\\

...and they worked out fine.

Bolt-on neck? Shouldn't hurt anything.

Glue won't bond to it very well though, so keep it out of any future set neck pockets.

if glue won't bond tru oil finish well, should I avoid applying it inside the control cavity where I plan on sticking shielding tape?

I don't think you'll have a problem there.

Bolt-on neck? Shouldn't hurt anything.

Glue won't bond to it very well though, so keep it out of any future set neck pockets.

I radius first (router), then slot, then rough cut the taper, then attach to the neck.

A seven string is not more difficult than a six string, IMO.

You could start with those templates, I guess, but you'll have to make significant changes. You'd really be using those templates as a guide to build your own templates.

Welcome!

Post some pics as you go along...

You can install a TOM straight across and have all the strings intonate properly; there's just less room for adjustment that way and you have to get the bridge placement dead on.

Example

I recognize the e-mail address on their page. I've gotten stuff through eBay from them before.

Maybe they're on vacation or something.

Yeah, you can get any option on a neck bought by itself that you can on a neck on a factory-built guitar.

Not to discourage you in any way from building your own (it's a lot of fun), but if you're still looking at pre-built basses, check here. No charge for fretless on any model they sell, and mostly way under $2000. I can personally vouch for their quality; I have more than a dozen of their instruments and have played them for 15 years.

I get quite a few pieces from eBay.

Check gilmerwood.com as well. I'm sure some others will chime in here too.

And welcome!

Congrats...it'll be a great addition. I use mine constantly.

I had to fiddle with the tracking for a while too, but I didn't have the issue you describe with one side being loose.

It did take several incremental adjustments to get the drum parallel to the table though.

You could call it the Strato-Caster. Oh, wait...

Seriously, looks nice.

I did one similar to that first one, but I used a stain that's no longer manufactured, then tung oiled it. I didn't fill the pores; wanted to feel the wood through the finish.

Ah, ok. Yeah, I remember the incident but didn't realize deleting was disabled.

You should be able to delete your own post if there are no responses to it.

Do you want something deleted? PM me a link and I'll look at it.

I think you'll find you won't be able to solder aluminum.

I think you'll find you love making necks. Shaping the neck profile is my favorite part of the whole build.

Depends on the design, of course, but a solid body electric guitar blank is typically around 4 board feet (assuming 8/4 thickness).

Neck...depends on whether it's a neck-through or not, and a few other variables. Assuming a bolt-on neck, maybe roughly 2 board feet (tilt back headstock w/ no scarf).

This particular version also has erythritol in it (which is found in apples and pears); that may be what kills the bitterness. I'm not noticing any bitterness at all.

I found a non-sugar sweetener that I actually like. I've been drinking "VitaminWater 10" quite a bit lately. Not soda, but I imagine the sweetener (stevia) will be in soda soon.

Don't thank Brian C. so soon.

And welcome!

Maybe the answer would be to rig the wheels somehow so that they can be engaged or disengaged depending on the situation.