Rick500

I've used india ink with maple and poplar with good results. Haven't tried it on rosewood.

You should be able to achieve that with Tru-oil. Search the forums for Quarter's posts of some of his lap steels. There's a post of mine floating around somewhere titled "Mahogany and Tru-oil" where he responded and explained things pretty well.

Edit: Ah, here it is.

I used Tru-oil on the one I'm building now (mahogany body), no grainfill. Just Tru-oil. Wet sanded with Tru-oil to fill the pores (I didn't totally fill them, I wanted to be able to feel the grain a bit).

Maybe Quarter will chime in here.

Yeah, strips of sandpaper. Sometimes helps to make a "handle" with a couple turns of duct tape on each end of the strip.

Seems like a flexible tape could be used to measure the fret slot and then to transfer the measurement to the fret.

Very cool! I will definitely give that a shot soon.

Semi-hemi's looking great! I need to learn to do that.

And glad the package finally arrived.

Zombie thread!

I guess if I was forced to choose one, I'd pick curly spalted maple.

I just glued one up a few days ago. I think it looks fine.

I always put the adjustment end at the headstock.

I like truss rod covers for some reason, and there's hardly a point of having one if there's no truss rod nut under there.

(Beer pictures posted by request, btw; soup picture an added bonus. )

I would think flat part up, round part down. I use Allied rods that are similarly-shaped, and that's the way those are installed.

Here it is (before gluing up--front, before gluing up--back, drying):

PM me with your shipping address.

Cheers, Carl, that £5 was good for beers on two consecutive weekend nights.

Saturday:

Sunday:

It's been a great weekend.

I only really like gold on green. Eye of the beholder, etc.

Heh... we had a pretty good ice storm here several weeks back, and there's chopped up maple, walnut, oak, and poplar (and various "junk" trees) EVERYWHERE on the sides of the road. Unfortunately everything I've seen so far has been attacked with chainsaws and is in pieces too small to be useful.

I have a bunch of poplar, walnut, and maple on my property, but fortunately didn't lose anything but a few limbs.

Carvin uses birch tops on one of their Allan Holdsworth signature models.

Looks great!

How thick a layer of floating paint do you need... I ask because I'm imagining it would be pretty easy, especially with the handle cutout, to get spots that might not touch any paint.

I may be wrong; I've never seen it done.

Really, really nice!

Wait until you guys see my Cormonica. I'll let you know when it's done.

I've had my jointer (6" floor-standing) for maybe a year (I think?)... I check the adjustment every time I use it, and it's due for a sharpening. (I've used it for two guitars and maybe three other miscellaneous small projects).

I would leave it as it is. It looks fine. I don't think black would look nearly as good.

Only if it tries to get away.

[Edit: Oh, now I see what you mean. Yeah, I worded my previous post strangely. ]

I've put sandpaper on just about everything that's not nailed down. And some things that are, come to think of it.

Sandpaper on a roll of duct tape, for example.

+1 on the angle grinder. The $10 Harbor Freight variety works just fine. With an 80 grit flap disc.