~davie

Thanks for the input guys. I don't think I can do much to the finish aside from refinishing it. I'm just going to ignore the paint blemish.

The guitar is used from a guitar pawn shop

Here's the pic

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=341006&d=1324172434

Hey guys, I just bought a guitar from the boutique yesterday. It seemed fine until I brought it home then cleaned up all the fingerprint/smudges. Then I noticed there's a paint blemish on the body. Its highly visible when light is shone on it.

I have attached a picture:

White circle in the middle is just lighting. The blemish is in some kind of 'L' shape. It think its underneath the paint. I cannot feel any texture from it when I touch it.

Any way for me to fix it? I have until Monday to return it

I know that Stewmac supplies them, but I thinking about maybe something local, since it may be more convenient.

Lacquer burn in sticks only come in a few colors so if it doesn't match you will have to go another route.

To use them you use a hot knife (I used the soldering iron power style) and melt the stick into the cracks. Works great on black, browns, and ambers.

If it is a special color guitar I don't have any advice as I quit doing repair work years ago. Maybe Pauliemc or supplebannana can chime in.

The guitar is black. So where can I get some of these lacquer sticks?

lacquer burn in sticks.

Thanks for the response. I think I read a guide on Stewmacs on something similar.

But how exactly do I do it?

And what about the colour? Is it possible to get it to blend with the original colour?

Hey guys, do you think this paint crack on this body can be repaired or reduced in appearance (to make it less noticeable)?

If so, then how can I do it?

It's a guitar that found on craigslist that I'm considering buying.

The crack is on the lower back of the body.

(picture attached)

Give me your thoughts.

Thanks

Okay, I just tried rubbing alcohol. It helped much better than the other stuff I tried, but there's still some residue leftover.

I'll give it a few more tries. I'm thinking the pickguard scratches may be accentuating the scuffy parts.

Thanks guys. So far I've tried lime juice (no lemon juice in the house). And I also tried vinegar.

Both of them seem to take off some of it, but there's still some weird scuffs and residue.

Maybe I should consider polishing and buffing it out?

Hey guys. Haven't been on here for a while!

Just asking around for some advice/help.

How do I get rid of a scuff mark from sticker that was on my pickguard..

The pickguard is black too.. ugh..

Any ideas?

Guitarfetish GFS. They make noiseless sets for strats and teles using Neodymium magnets called "NEOVIN"

Haven't tried them, but there are a few youtube videos of people using them.

http://store.guitarfetish.com/pickups.html

i've ordered a couple of times from bezdez in the past. they've got pretty good deals in terms of parts. but haven't tried their pickups

i've read from a few sources throughout the net, apparently the pickups they have are Artec? and a few Belcat from what it seems.

i'm not really looking for the highest quality either. i'm planning to make my guitars and gear as minimalistic as possible.

The cheaper pickups are gonna go into my starter guitar, which is basically my back-up guitar.

where can i buy dirt cheap pickups off of ebay that are decent sounding and good bang for the buck?

like.. $20 humbucker.. or whatever.. with some selection..

and don't say GFS/guitarfetish. lol. i wanna know of something else..

any cheap ebay stores that you've tried with good results?

Thanks for the help...I think I'll go with Mahogany. Thats what SG's are still made of right?

yeah, the original or high-grade SG's are made from mahogany. Though the budget-level SG's might be made from other types of woods. like alder or basswood. but anyway, go with mahogany

I need to know which wood would be better for a metal SG: Alder or Mahogany

Thanks in advance

Maybe mahogany, since most hard rock/metal guitarists usually use guitars made with either Basswood or Mahogany. Both which are considered "warm tone" woods. Alder on the other hand is more of a "Fender" wood that gives a more brighter sound, but overall is more balanced.

Here's a wood guide you can read about tonewoods and their tonal descriptions.

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Optio...oodOptions.aspx

My tele has a secret micro-kill-switch...and a sustainer too!

You can't really see it without that bright flash to show it up and I forget it's there. But I use it as a kind of manual tremolo occasionally on held chords and such. Put it on because I could and for fun!

hey psw, can u make a video or post a vid of you demoing your tele, it seems interesting

Im trying to wire up a 345 and it seems the switc is a 2 way not a 3 way it is original all diagrams show this as a pickup selecter any ideas whats up with this?

is it really really old? lol

i dunno

well. i think u should just replace the switch. get one of those 3-way toggle switches like Les Pauls or something and you're set!

A quick and hopefully easy question:

i know that for a piezo preamp the correct volume pot would be a 25k.

but what would the upshot be if i used a 250k instead?

not sure. most active configurations use 25k apparently. not sure why.

but if we can apply the general effect of pot ratings, higher pot values allow more higher frequencies to be produced in the sound.

piezo pickups are somewhat thin and tinny sounding, right? i'm guessing with a 250k it'll be more shrill-sounding, or somewhat icepicky? lol

Yeah, Ive got diagrams for bothof those configs. Just looking for options with the 5way/p-p. You've sparked an idea though. I'll probably pick up onother p-p pot, and do the the first setup, with p-p being phase switches. Thanks for the inspiration.

no problem. lol. good luck on that

yeah, that could work. They're like P-Bass style pickups, right? You can separate them and put one side closer to the bridge and the other side closer to the neck.

Exactly. My only concern is that they might sound a bit wonky because the lower treble strings would have that "22 fret sound" and the higher ones would have more of a "24 fret sound". Similarly with the bass -- Lower bass strings having more volume because they're being sensed further from the bridge.

Ray

you should probably try experimenting with it. like.. don't route any holes yet and hold up the pickups right above the strings and play.. if its not assembled then try on another bass and just move the pickups along the strings and test for sound balance.

There are various implementations of the kill switch idea. Les Paul users like Townsend have been using the technique for ages, simply turn say the neck pickup volume to zero and switch between that and the neck pickup on to create the effect.

The problem with a lot of push button kill switches like the one on my tele is that they can be counter-intuitive...pushing the button kills the sound...so you tend to feel like you are playing the silences rather than the sound on effect.

Players like Morello prefer the sound on thing and I can see why. I use it for a kind of rhythmic manual tremolo kind of effect on occasion, but really, it is a bit gimmicky to be used that often for anything that much IMHO

very true

seems too much of a gimmick, constant use of it may start to seem monotonous. especially if u start using it in EVERY friggin' song.

damn, i was just watching videos on youtube of the killswitch in use.

seems pretty cool. lol i think i MIGHT make one later.

definitely has to be a momentary push button!

and yeah, to correct guitarkid, its NOT reverb. the best way to describe it would be to call it "signal chopping". or simply "chopping" LOL

the closest guitar effect to it, would be a tremolo effect

it actually appears to be felt like. the spacing is 52mm i believe from the center of saddle 1 to 6

that means its got a saddle width of 10.4mm, which indicates that this is IMPORT specification.

though the small-sized tremolo block is probably a dead giveaway already. lol

honestly.. this bridge could be from anything.. any number of random guitars out there.

update: got the guitar all wired up, but: Here are the old positions

switch: down=bridge

mid: both buckers

up: neck

Now:

down:neck

mid: kill ( i didn't touch anything with the jack)

up: bridge

Davie, please just draw it up for me

I need to buy new pots and a proper switch

Ther's more solder on that pot than there is teeth in a shark.

Some of u guys hate finishing. ME, wiring. Such a pain in the @$$!!

here, hit me on msn if u can.

mine is

dracolyte [at]

hotmail.com

i dunno some switch i found in my grandpa's parts bin. its got three poles. sorry, my dads laptop is like 5 miles away from me cause my guitar is in front of me and i am doin that at the same time so im only using one hand. one question, which ones would be my bare, red and white?

are they chrome covered pickups?

because if they are, then the bare wire is most likely the shielding wire which go connect to ground (ie. back of a pot)

as for the red and white wires. one would be for signal(or positive lead), and the other one would be your pickup ground wire(or negative lead, which connects to ground). It would depend on the brand of the pickups. Certain guitar pickup companies use certain color codes for their wires. If you know the brand, then you can probably look it up.

But if you don't know the brand or its some random aftermarket brand then do trial and error, swap them back and forth and see/hear which one sounds better. lol

But my guess, its likely the red wire is for the signal, whereas the white wire is for ground.