Mr. Preston Swift

i have a marshall mg 30dfx solid state, i liked it at first but now it makes me cry when i turn it up a little (tears of shame). If you're on a budget definitely a Carvin or if you're in a really tight budget you could get one of those Roland cubes. They have a really nice tone and powerful for a solid state. It's also a modeling amp. They may not look like much but they're actually pretty good. I've had bad experiences with Peaveys in the past

I've read a lot of info on building acoustics but there is little on tap tone. Everyone keeps saying keep shaping the braces until you get to where it sounds good to you. I'm a little confused with what to listen for when tapping. To get a nice evenly balanced sound of a nice sounding acoustic what should the tapping sound like?

I'm making a 13 degree angled headstock by scarf joint (i think that's what it's called; see picture) but I'm pretty sure that the headstock itself is not wide enough for the design i want. Should i add more wood to the sides of the headstock before or after i glue the joint?

try LMI. ( lmii.com ). They have good prices and quality rosewood for neck blanks.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....ood+Neck+Blanks

absolutely beautiful work

wow i'm surprised i would have gotten that one right.

Looks exactly like my acoustic sides

I cant see why you cant use it and it must be hard wearing if they use it for decks on boats. I have an off cut I will use for an acoustic bridge in the future.

People tend to get hung up about using the traditional woods but I have used Pacific Rosewood for a fingerboard on an acoustic and Kwila for the body of a Les Paul Junior. I actually really like the combination of Kwila body and Sapelle neck. Gives a nice bright sound.

what's Kwila, and Pacific Rosewood. I've never heard of these before. Do you have any links to examples of work with these?

i'm 15 but joined PG when i was 13 or 14

it's great... just great i'm probably one of the youngest here

i've been trying to find information on a 12 string nylon classical guitar. I'm pretty sure that someone somewhere has made one before but i can't find any info on it. I'm not too sure if the tonal difference would be radical enough to be worth it for me. Does anyone have any info on this?

whoa!!! slow down lol

VERY nice work

i see what you mean, it seems like everyone is building guitars built for heavy metal or heavy metal looking guitars. Which is great cause they all look good on this forum. I don't have much money to work with but i use an epi LP studio with only the neck bucker on and the treble all the way through my Marshall MG 30 watt 110 LOL. Cheap stuff is usually the best with what i encounter. Like when i pick up a brand new Gibson that dosn't play or sound nearly as good as the same model made by Epiphone. But that's just me

well i have the LMI Aniline Water Soluble Dyes.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....s+Water+Soluble

i think they are basically like stewmacs colortone.

So if i apply enough coats over it will it not have a chance of bleeding through?

I'm going to be finishing soon and i want to do blue tung oiled body. I'm going to be using a dye and i was wondering how to correctly apply the tung oil over a stain. Should i tint the oil, apply it over the dye or try another method. Any feedback would be helpful.

i just ordered my LMI kit on wednesday. I ordered a kit because i don't have much money to spend on tools like a bending iron or anything like that. You can customize anything you want and they give you a sweet %20-%10 discount. It should be coming around friday.

I'm starting my acoustic in about 2 weeks now and i had a few questions regarding tung oil.

Does a tung oil finish on an acoustic guitar affect the sound or the structure in a negative way?

Also, how do you use stain and a tung oil finish (for solid body)? I would think that you would have to tint the oil but i really don't know.

i'll be sure to post progress as soon as i get my camera up and running.

thx

thanks for the quick replys guys. I'll be grabing any cherry i can get now.

I came across some cherry that is big enough to be used in a neck and i was wondering if it would be a stable wood and be good in a neck. For the neck i will be using walnut with laminations of cherry. Will it work good?

yeah, where are they? There hasn't been a good old acoustic since Godin sd's way back when.

i'll be starting my build in a couple of weeks as soon as i get enough money

lookin good

where did you get the bird inlays? or did you make them?

$5 a board for forum members. Fort Worth, Texas.

I'll be interested in that for my next electric build.

Yes, I can slot the board if you're able to locate one. If you can only find larger pieces, I can make several fingerboards for you for no extra charge other than the slotting itself. And no, I do not pay Russ or Andy to advertise for me.

How much do you charge per slotting? Also, where are you from? (for shipping reasons)

That looks fantastic. What are the specs though (wood, pickups, tuners, bridge, hardware etc)? I think it looks really cool

Mushy the Shroom made the Nebula guitar a while back and i think that was 1 1/8 inchs. Though he did do a hidden pickup.

This is probably the best month of Guitar of the Month i've ever seen. I had such a hard decision that i had to think about it for a couple of days. I loved and wanted to vote for every guitar in there (SERIOUSLY). But, I"M GOING WITH HYDRO'S DOUBLE CUTAWAY guitar. It's looks so clean and there's something highclass about the way it looks. The white finish looks amazing contrasting with the mahogany and maple neck, also, I'm a sucker for a double cutaway. Again GREAT jobs on these guitars this month.

sorry for the late add, but i know Schecter makes a transparent white bass that looks really nice.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Sch...Bass?sku=513050

would it be possible to do a sand back black and white finish on the maple? (like PRS sand back kind)